MJNewton

To be clear(er), by dry trap I mean something like a Hepworth Hepvo or McAlpine Macvalve etc.

A dry trap is generally recommended as there will be times when condensation is low/non-existent and there's a risk that the seal in a wet trap might evaporate leading to drainage smells being admitted to the unit.

Completely normal. Remember they’ll have come from a completely different factory and so all you’re doing is marrying them up later in the cycle by doing it on site.

I expect the additional rigidity of ‘pre-glazing’ helps minimise stresses and strains on the corners of the frames whilst being transported and lifted into place. If 3G makes the entire unit too heavy to do this then perhaps they’re worried about the open frame by itself. If this is the case though there must surely be ways they can brace it - even just temporarily with timber.

And it'd be prudent to always use a detergent so dirt should be kept in suspension. I doubt cleaning windows with water alone would be all that effective (although I must admit I've never actually tried it).

We're in a hard water area and I use water from a water butt to clean the cars and windows.

Echoing some of comments above, joins in quartz worktops (indeed arguably worktops of any material) have a structural role to play in addition to aesthetics so I don't think silicone would be an appropriate material to use.

Fair enough, but you really need to be clearer with your opening posts as it whilst there wasn't a question mark I read your plea as effectively asking for a solution: All that said the cause and solution are intrinsically linked, and I feel we've given a reasonably likely answer to both so take your pick which (if any!) you want to take.

Looks great! So pleased you've got a warm haven to retreat to too.

The Viessmann Vitodens 200-W combi (B2KB) modulates down to 1.8kW, if that's close enough? With such low heat requirements I think you'll always have to accept some level of cycling (and might be able to minimise it further through boiler configuration).

To be fair, isn't this what several others have already suggested? To be clear; the conclusion I was intending with my theory wasn't to suggest you accept it for what it is but rather that you should look to change the local conditions ('local' meaning inside your house, by your doors, not the locality of village as a whole!) by increasing the temperature of the house, for example.

With floating shelves I expect the weight limit is primarily related to limitations of the fixings used. In Gus's case the rods are (presumably) embedded in the wall whereas don't most off-the-shelf(!) offerings relay on some form of hidden bracket that is screwed into the wall?

I think most dimmers have a standard shaft and fixing size so you may well be able to swap the module but keep the existing faceplate and knob. Varilight V-Pro dimmers are popular; might be worth a try to see if they're any better?

My theory is it being a consequence of low temperature and high humidity, local to the affected areas.

At 20m I'd expect only a volt or so drop at a nominal 1A supply current.

You could use a 'poor mans' passive PoE injector/splitter such as this one and then you'd have the choice of any switch you like.

We bought ours from https://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/ and it came extremely well packed and protected on a pallet. I’d recommend them on all fronts to be honest: price, service, advice etc.

There'd only be a risk of condensation if the attic space is cold which, if it is, you'll want to bury the ducting in insulation anyway. Even running perpendicular to the joists I doubt you'd get much sagging and no more than you'd get elsewhere in the property, but it won't be an issue if you do.

You’ve missed out the issue of having gaps in the ceiling and the corresponding risk that it presents a passage for fire. That’s what fire rated fittings are for - they seal the opening whether at the back or the front.

I don’t think a conservatory can be considered a ‘room’ as it is not part of the dwelling (hence not being subject to building regs).

Ah, but is it? Using the definition from this LABC Guidance Note it has to have at least 50% glazing in the walls (seems okay from the photo) *and* 75% glazing in the roof (but this one looks solid?)… Edit: I missed that Building Control have already been involved so it’s down to them how they interpret legislation that uses undefined terms, and if they say it’s a conservatory (or could be!) then I suppose it is!

Having read a few of your threads (but evidently not one where you describe your place in detail!) I had this image in my mind of a dusty old farmhouse for some reason. Looks really nice! (And on the topic of triple panel radiators you've effectively got them already dimensions wise so I think they'd be a good idea if required)

The benefit of the waterless trap is indeed the avoidance of breaking the seal when there's no condensate. The fitting instructions for mine mandate the use of one.

Ah. Mange tout, Rodney. 🙂 (Edit: I don't know how that's going to translate so just ignore it if it doesn't! Link)

The floor area doesn't really play into it, more how many showers and baths you'd expect to be having per day (and when). For example, if a shower gives a flow of say 10-15 L/min combined hot+cold then you might expect the hot portion to be just over half so perhaps 6-8 L/min. A 120L cylinder would therefore only give around 15 minutes worth before needing reheating. Of course, this could be happening whilst the shower is drawing but I'm sure you'd end up cursing your mate with the family round and you're trying to keep up with demand, particularly if the cat suddenly decides it wants a bath.