MJNewton

I was talking about the specs of the switch being able to detect/correct polarity inversion, as that's what Adam2 sounded like they were going to check (but as I said it's unlikely that that sort of detail that would be included as it's a very low-level function). Auto MDI-X doesn't, no, but the IEEE 802.3 spec absolutely does and clearly states it as an intended goal: 'PMA' if the Physical Medium Attachment sublayer and essentially acts as a abstraction layer that decouples the interface backend and the physical port and is where all the 'magic' happens to deal a whole raft of medium-related issues that might arise (such as reverse polarity pairs as stated).

To add: my advice would be to 1) check the T568B colours on your patch panel and faceplates do actually connect to the correct pin in the socket as per the specs (it is not unheard of for cheap products (no offence intended - they're what I use!) to have such issues/errors, and 2) double-check that the T568B wiring spec has been followed throughout the installation (all to easy for mistakes to creep in, such as the reverse polarity orange pair you found, or for the adjacent T568A colour code to have been inadvertently followed somewhere).

It's likely not something that'll be adequately explained/advertised in the specs - it's more a low-level function that corresponds to a equally low level coverage in the IEEE specs too. A switch might advertise something along the lines of 'auto-crossover detection' or similar, but that doesn't necessarily mean it'll go further and cope with any randomly-wired cabling you connect it to.

Fairly common when it comes to Gigabit adaptors and doesn't necessarily mean the wiring is 'right'. The spec requires a certain amount of auto-negotiation to cater for the different permutations of device connectivity and whilst the bare minimum is to cover the use of straighthrough vs crossover cables most implementations take this liberal approach to the extreme such that all pins can be internally re-routed to enable successful connectivity to take place. It can't deal with missing connections through, or at least not without a degradation of performance by falling back to a low spec level (which don't require all four pairs to function, such as with 10/100BASE-T).

For Gigabit (1000BASE-T) you need all four pairs for data transmission. PoE in such a network is carried using 'phantom power' common mode DC voltage which doesn't interfere with the transformer-coupled AC data transmission on the same wires.

Speaking of foam guns I’ve just found mine in the garage with a can still attached to it. For long term storage I normally remove the can and thoroughly flush out with gun cleaner however this time I must’ve forgotten or assumed I was going to use it again imminently but 18 months have gone by and that didn’t happen. So… I was assuming I’d need a new gun but I gave it a squirt and after a brief moment where nothing happened out it came and it worked as good as always!

That looks suspiciously similar to the Hepvo - I wonder if it's produced on licence?

To be clear(er), by dry trap I mean something like a Hepworth Hepvo or McAlpine Macvalve etc.

A dry trap is generally recommended as there will be times when condensation is low/non-existent and there's a risk that the seal in a wet trap might evaporate leading to drainage smells being admitted to the unit.

Completely normal. Remember they’ll have come from a completely different factory and so all you’re doing is marrying them up later in the cycle by doing it on site.

I expect the additional rigidity of ‘pre-glazing’ helps minimise stresses and strains on the corners of the frames whilst being transported and lifted into place. If 3G makes the entire unit too heavy to do this then perhaps they’re worried about the open frame by itself. If this is the case though there must surely be ways they can brace it - even just temporarily with timber.

And it'd be prudent to always use a detergent so dirt should be kept in suspension. I doubt cleaning windows with water alone would be all that effective (although I must admit I've never actually tried it).

We're in a hard water area and I use water from a water butt to clean the cars and windows.

Echoing some of comments above, joins in quartz worktops (indeed arguably worktops of any material) have a structural role to play in addition to aesthetics so I don't think silicone would be an appropriate material to use.

Fair enough, but you really need to be clearer with your opening posts as it whilst there wasn't a question mark I read your plea as effectively asking for a solution: All that said the cause and solution are intrinsically linked, and I feel we've given a reasonably likely answer to both so take your pick which (if any!) you want to take.

Looks great! So pleased you've got a warm haven to retreat to too.

The Viessmann Vitodens 200-W combi (B2KB) modulates down to 1.8kW, if that's close enough? With such low heat requirements I think you'll always have to accept some level of cycling (and might be able to minimise it further through boiler configuration).

To be fair, isn't this what several others have already suggested? To be clear; the conclusion I was intending with my theory wasn't to suggest you accept it for what it is but rather that you should look to change the local conditions ('local' meaning inside your house, by your doors, not the locality of village as a whole!) by increasing the temperature of the house, for example.

With floating shelves I expect the weight limit is primarily related to limitations of the fixings used. In Gus's case the rods are (presumably) embedded in the wall whereas don't most off-the-shelf(!) offerings relay on some form of hidden bracket that is screwed into the wall?

I think most dimmers have a standard shaft and fixing size so you may well be able to swap the module but keep the existing faceplate and knob. Varilight V-Pro dimmers are popular; might be worth a try to see if they're any better?

My theory is it being a consequence of low temperature and high humidity, local to the affected areas.

At 20m I'd expect only a volt or so drop at a nominal 1A supply current.

You could use a 'poor mans' passive PoE injector/splitter such as this one and then you'd have the choice of any switch you like.

We bought ours from https://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/ and it came extremely well packed and protected on a pallet. I’d recommend them on all fronts to be honest: price, service, advice etc.

There'd only be a risk of condensation if the attic space is cold which, if it is, you'll want to bury the ducting in insulation anyway. Even running perpendicular to the joists I doubt you'd get much sagging and no more than you'd get elsewhere in the property, but it won't be an issue if you do.