Dreadnaught

Yes, if its available gas-over-ASHP was the consensus view that I picked-up from a couple of years of solidly reading this site. There is a gas main is in the access road immediately in front of my plot. And so gas it is for my new planned modern bungalow, which is sufficiently small that I can use just a combi-boiler. From a purely intellectual perspective, I would love to skip gas altogether and go electricity-only. But the economic perspective does not support this (yet). The initial capital cost for an ASHP is much higher than a combi-boiler and the payoff of an ASHP is not sufficient. Furthermore, at least for now, any buyer of my dwelling is more likely to have more confidence in a gas boiler than an ASHP.

Not sure if this is what you had in mind (without prices): Look from Page 10 onwards. https://www.jhplumb.com/system/brand_attachments/1033/original/Hep20_Technical_handbook.pdf

It will only be cold and hot water, no heating pipes, and only to supply one en-suite. I guess I will need a handful of Pro Clima seal grommets for pipe feed-throughs. (I am also wondering whether to run a gas pipe through the joists too, but that's another story).

Good point. Airtightness lawyer at ceiling level (Pro Clima Intello Plus under WarmCel, just like MBC usually do). Was intending to seal the pipes as the passed through the membrane. Warmcel is pretty airtight too on its own. But you raise a good challenge to my thoughts.

Thanks @Nickfromwales. Sadly the gods of planning have decreed a fully-flat roof (with greenery on top). No choice. I will however have lots of 300mm open-web joists just begging for pipe runs.

I'm following this discussion with interest as I am planning a bungalow too and had intended to run much of my plumbing through the open-web joists in the ceiling/roof, like @Oz07. (In my case I have a flat roof.) In my case, I am not intending to have any radiators, just UFH. Would this mean I aim unlikely to have a problem I wonder?

Oh, what I saw in the videos I watched was that glue-down LVT was inserted under architraves, at least in a retro-fit situation. The architraves were cut with a multi-tool so it would fit underneath. I believe that LVT requires a few mm of gap around its edge. Not sure why. But it would indeed be good if this was concealed by skirting.

Watching some more online videos on LVT: DIY install of click/floating LVT looks very very easy. But DIY installing glue-down LVT does not look particularly difficult: slightly more complicated but not difficult. Given the cost advantage of glue-down LVT and that it is thinner (for UFH), I think that glue-down LVT will be my choice for a DIY install.

Interesting topic for me, as I am researching LVT as well for my build. @vivienz has the glue-down type too. Why is that I wonder? Click/floating type sounds easier to install DIY.

Could it have one of the new eSIMs, soldered on to a circuit board somewhere? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ESIM

Thanks all. I've been looking online at how to seal a sealed-unit into a wooden aperture… and so have descended into the world of window putty and butyl glazing-tape and a myriad of other tapes, caulks and sealants. I assume the concerns are twofold: (i) rain- and wind-proofing the exterior (including the fate of the rainwater that runs down the window); and (ii) airtightness on the interior. Airtightness I imagine is just a matter of the right tapes as with any window. The tapes then being hidden by the plasterboard in the reveal. Any thoughts on rain- and wind-proofing on the outside anyone?

Thanks. Unsure what this means ↑ .

For a fixed window (external, non-opening), is there any reason in principle why one could not skip having a window frame altogether and mount a triple-glazed "sealed unit" directly in to the aperture created in an exterior timber wall, perhaps with only a minimal bracket for fixing purposes? It strikes me that frames are expensive, complicated, (sometimes greatly) reduce glazing area, and are designed mostly to enable windows to open. And frames also have comparatively poor U-values (even for Passivhaus windows) than the glass they contain. Problems I can imagine: Sealing and ensuring water runs off properly. Coping with differential heat expansion (bang goes the window on a hot day!). Access to swap the sealed unit if necessary. Undoubtedly, there must be something fundamental that I am missing. Please enlighten me.

Ah @AnonymousBosch, so I take it that its a Gaulhofer window (which confounded @craig)? Off topic I know, but could ask about the frame/glass ratio there? Are those standard frame widths or are they a special request by you? The reason I ask is because I will have four windows which are currently planned to be within 685mm apertures. But if the glass pane would end up being as narrow as the one in your photo I will be tempted to widen the aperture.

Could the same be advised for rooflights I wonder? And maybe even windows too while we're at it?

@vivienz, spotted on Amazon … https://www.amazon.co.uk/Palram-NANCY-1500-GREY-CANOPY/dp/B07KZVV54F/ref=asc_df_B07KZSMJP2/

@vivienz, regarding water creeping-in under your front door, does your front door have a bottom drip detail (a.k.a. a weatherboard, rain deflector, or rain deflector)? Could you post a photo of the bottom section of your front door? I recall that @mvincentd had an issue with such a detail. This door has one as an example:

@Ktelobb, yes, exactly the same with my plot. And with mine, the council had adopted a new Local Plan in the intervening period which meant my new plans had some hurdles to jump (I ended up with a green roof as a result). It implied that the old approved design would not have been approved under the new Local Plan.

Hi @Ktelobb, I feel for you. I don't know if it will be the case with your local council, but with mine (Cambridge) validation is done a by a separate team (Application Support) before the applications passes in to the hands of the planning officer proper. And, yes, the 8-week clock started at validation. (And in the end mine took more than five times the limit.)

Fortunately there is no CIL in Cambridge (nor thankfully, did I have S106 mention in my planning permission). Always good to re-iterate that pitfall. Thanks @Temp.

Once its in @Visti, I'm looking forward to hearing your real-life impressions of the acoustic performance of such a build-up. It looks thorough.

Welcome to the forum! What types of drainage calculations? SUDS discharge rates? Falls and IC positions for drain runs? Something else? The reason I ask is that I have some helpful advice if it relates in any way to a flat roof, which it probably doesn't.

You may

@vivienz, in the unlikely event that your impeccable taste would accept something like this, this is what I had been considering before. Its possible to buy the various chromed metal parts from AliExpresss and have the toughened glass made here. Unobtrusive, probably quite cheap, probably easier to mount.

Following this with interest. Building regs mean I might need a canopy too and nothing has been specified so far.