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Dreadnaught

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Everything posted by Dreadnaught

  1. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @dpmiller, that's useful information. Another option for me to consider. Very good.
  2. Dreadnaught
    Not a great deal of help for you but I would counsel to choose a solicitor experienced in land conveyancing, not just houses. Its quite a different specialism.
  3. Dreadnaught
    I can't think why not. A steel ridge beam superficially sounds like a splendid idea. I will investigate.
  4. Dreadnaught
    Interesting. Is concrete board the same as cement fibre board? What type of insulation did you use? Were the joists timber I-beams? VPL, is that a VCL?
  5. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @ProDave. Makes sense.
  6. Dreadnaught
    Ah I see. Thanks @ProDave. Would the final floor covering need to be structural? LVT would not work?
  7. Dreadnaught
    Ah, I'm slow on the uptake. So a 1:8-biscuit-mix screed does not form the final floor surface. It is battened out and a final floor surface (e.g. Egger Protect) is added above it. [Bottom] Deck 1 → Joists (filled with insulation) → Deck 2→ Battens, biscuit screed & UFH pipes → Deck 3 [Top] Is that right?
  8. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @PeterW. Interesting suggestion. Will explore. One question: why "Add 25mm battens / timbers", what are they for? (Its a ground floor.)
  9. Dreadnaught
    Thanks ProDave. Very helpful information.
  10. Dreadnaught
    Now that's an unexpected suggestion, worth exploring! Thank you. Supported on the screw piles? How to insulate, PIR insulation above somehow?
  11. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @ProDave, as always. Good thoughts. Why do you have a timber floor downstairs? Do you get much underfoot flex? Do you have a screed? I am wondering if that would change how it feels.
  12. Dreadnaught
    Max span is about 5.8 metres. If that span was problematic, I presume it would be quite straight forward to specify an extra screw pile or two. Yes screw piles. The floor will have no direct contact with the ground surface. Yes, I presume so.
  13. Dreadnaught
    Oh but I cannot dig down. I have a no-dig requirement because of protected tree roots. I have learnt that "no dig" really means "don't dig very much" so I can probably dig down 200mm or so when I am levelling the site. 200mm will take the heave-protection CellCore HX-S at least. A timber floor would start just above ground level.
  14. Dreadnaught
    I have for the last year or more been assuming that I would have an insulated-concrete-raft floor in my modern bungalow, but I am now having second thoughts. The alternative is to have a timber-cassette floor *. But I have a constraint which is making me re-consider things: height: a ridge-height limit **. Anything that I can do to lower my dwelling's height is attractive as I am struggling to get under the limit. A timber-cassette floor filled with PIR could easily be 200mm thinner ***. The reason I favoured a concrete raft was that I felt a timber-cassette floor may well feel insubstantial, hollow and flex. But… am I wrong? Can a timber floor be made or feel as solid as a concrete floor? For example, would something as simple as a biscuit screed do the job (I have never seen one)? I would be grateful for your thoughts. - - - (* By the way, my foundations will be screw piles. The floor will have no direct contact with the ground surface.) (** And I have a no-dig requirement too.) (*** The build-up of the concrete-raft floor will be 775mm for a U-value 0.10 W/m².k, as follows: small pea shingle 50 mm, Cellcore HX-S heave protection 225, EPS 300 mm, reinforced concrete raft 200 mm.)
  15. Dreadnaught
    Not sure quite yet. Hoping it will be much less than a third more than a triple glazing. I am hoping the extra cost will be low (probably a vain hope). I agree that the law of diminishing returns rules here with more-and-more glazing layers. But following the fabric-first mantra, I am keen to spend money lowering the U-value of roof windows if I can, especially as I have 9 m² of them. Using @Jeremy Harris's heat-loss calculator brought it home to me how much heat is lost through them.
  16. Dreadnaught
    Yes. Or use a SunAmp to store the cheap heat, which can then be imparted in to the raft at leisure. This has been suggested to me by my M&E adviser.
  17. Dreadnaught
    Theft is a major concern. As soon as my build will be weathertight, I am sorely tempted to camp within, torch-in-hand. My plot (just a garden at present) has been broken-in-to once already since I have been its owner (!!)
  18. Dreadnaught
    I'm considering quad glazing for my (nine) rooflights.
  19. Dreadnaught
    For example, in @ProDave's case of a 2kW heating-requirement to maintain a temperature difference of 20º, he would need to impart 48kWh in a 24-hour period. But could he use four Willises for 4-hours at cheap rates and be done for the day, costing him £2.40? (A gross simplification I know.)
  20. Dreadnaught
    How fast I wonder can the concrete raft heat up, in its role as a thermal store? One thought about having a single Willis, double or even triple Willises, is that these new electricity tariffs restrict the lowest cost to 4-hours, 7-hours or 10-hours each day (and the 4-hour one is particularly attractive at 5p per kWh), it might be advantageous to heat up the raft quickly. Three Willises could impart the raft with 9kW, if it could only take it.
  21. Dreadnaught
    I have a supply-only quote from AFT as well (plus a full-installation quote). I am following this with discussion with interest. If I thought I was up to a DIY-install, I would be tempted.
  22. Dreadnaught
    If you're in the Apple ecosystem, then "HomeKit Secure Video" ensures high levels of security and only local processing of the video. That's what I will be going for. It is quite new so cameras with it are only just now becoming available. Netatmo and Eve have both announced them recently. (The software at launch is lacking some features and has some reported bugs, but it will be improved fast so it does not cause me concern.)
  23. Dreadnaught
    Have you considered adding secondary glazing separately and in addition? It can be very effective at reducing noise.
  24. Dreadnaught
    G4 is the standard dust filter. F7 is the upgrade option and a much finer filter, and so captures more fine particles such as pollen. An MVHR has two built-in filters to prevent the heat exchanger becoming clogged with dust. One prior to the heat exchanger on the fresh-air intake side. And one prior to the heat exchanger on the stale-air extract side. Personally, for my forthcoming build, my intention is use an F7 on the intake side and and G4 on the extract side. But to protect the F7 (which are quite pricey to buy) I also intend to mount a filter box outside the MVHR within the intake ducting run from the outside. In this filter box I will place a second filter, a G3 or maybe G4 pre-filter to catch some of the particles before the clog-up the F7. (G3 might be best as it will resist the airflow less than will a G4).
  25. Dreadnaught
    I looked at your drawings with a particular eye on the roof make-up. This is because I am presently specifying the flat roof for my forthcoming build so it is foremost in my thoughts.. I don't know if you are aware but yours is an example of a what's called a "hybrid" roof, a hybrid of a cold roof and warm roof. You have some insulation in among the structural elements and some insulation above the structural elements. I don't wish to alarm you but you might be interested to note that Bauder say "This type of roof construction should not be used unless a full condensation risk has been undertaken". The reason for this is the lower layer of insulation can cool the void increasing the risk of condensation within it. And it is of course moisture, more than almost anything else, that destroys buildings. Here's a link: https://www.bauder.co.uk/technical-centre/technical-literature/design-guides/flat-roof-design-considerations/thermal-design-insulation-and-consideration Did your architect do a dew-point (condensation risk) analysis of your roof, I wonder? Or perhaps its a standard details and so they are relying upon someone else having already done it?
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