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Dreadnaught

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Everything posted by Dreadnaught

  1. Dreadnaught
    Welcome @Dpirie76. Suffolk is a beautiful county. I'm just across the border in Cambridge. I don't know any other Suffolk-based members on here but there are few of us in neighbouring counties.
  2. Dreadnaught
    Welcome. You're just south of me, I'm in Cambridge.
  3. Dreadnaught
    An impressive piece of draftsmanship!
  4. Dreadnaught
    @Nickfromwales: https://www.imore.com/best-homekit-humidity-sensors
  5. Dreadnaught
    I have embraced the Philips Hue smart lighting, especially the "white ambient" bulbs. Pricey I know but the "temperature" of the white light is tuneable.
  6. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @Archer. I hadn't seen Quickbase. Had a quick look. Says "lightweight foundation system for conservatories and lightweight structures". I will drop them a line to see what "lightweight" means.
  7. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @Archer. By coincidence yes I did notice that system this very weekend when doing some google searching. Yesterday, I sent them an email enquiring for more details.
  8. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @dpmiller, that's useful information. Another option for me to consider. Very good.
  9. Dreadnaught
    Not a great deal of help for you but I would counsel to choose a solicitor experienced in land conveyancing, not just houses. Its quite a different specialism.
  10. Dreadnaught
    I can't think why not. A steel ridge beam superficially sounds like a splendid idea. I will investigate.
  11. Dreadnaught
    Interesting. Is concrete board the same as cement fibre board? What type of insulation did you use? Were the joists timber I-beams? VPL, is that a VCL?
  12. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @ProDave. Makes sense.
  13. Dreadnaught
    Ah I see. Thanks @ProDave. Would the final floor covering need to be structural? LVT would not work?
  14. Dreadnaught
    Ah, I'm slow on the uptake. So a 1:8-biscuit-mix screed does not form the final floor surface. It is battened out and a final floor surface (e.g. Egger Protect) is added above it. [Bottom] Deck 1 → Joists (filled with insulation) → Deck 2→ Battens, biscuit screed & UFH pipes → Deck 3 [Top] Is that right?
  15. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @PeterW. Interesting suggestion. Will explore. One question: why "Add 25mm battens / timbers", what are they for? (Its a ground floor.)
  16. Dreadnaught
    Thanks ProDave. Very helpful information.
  17. Dreadnaught
    Now that's an unexpected suggestion, worth exploring! Thank you. Supported on the screw piles? How to insulate, PIR insulation above somehow?
  18. Dreadnaught
    Thanks @ProDave, as always. Good thoughts. Why do you have a timber floor downstairs? Do you get much underfoot flex? Do you have a screed? I am wondering if that would change how it feels.
  19. Dreadnaught
    Max span is about 5.8 metres. If that span was problematic, I presume it would be quite straight forward to specify an extra screw pile or two. Yes screw piles. The floor will have no direct contact with the ground surface. Yes, I presume so.
  20. Dreadnaught
    Oh but I cannot dig down. I have a no-dig requirement because of protected tree roots. I have learnt that "no dig" really means "don't dig very much" so I can probably dig down 200mm or so when I am levelling the site. 200mm will take the heave-protection CellCore HX-S at least. A timber floor would start just above ground level.
  21. Dreadnaught
    I have for the last year or more been assuming that I would have an insulated-concrete-raft floor in my modern bungalow, but I am now having second thoughts. The alternative is to have a timber-cassette floor *. But I have a constraint which is making me re-consider things: height: a ridge-height limit **. Anything that I can do to lower my dwelling's height is attractive as I am struggling to get under the limit. A timber-cassette floor filled with PIR could easily be 200mm thinner ***. The reason I favoured a concrete raft was that I felt a timber-cassette floor may well feel insubstantial, hollow and flex. But… am I wrong? Can a timber floor be made or feel as solid as a concrete floor? For example, would something as simple as a biscuit screed do the job (I have never seen one)? I would be grateful for your thoughts. - - - (* By the way, my foundations will be screw piles. The floor will have no direct contact with the ground surface.) (** And I have a no-dig requirement too.) (*** The build-up of the concrete-raft floor will be 775mm for a U-value 0.10 W/m².k, as follows: small pea shingle 50 mm, Cellcore HX-S heave protection 225, EPS 300 mm, reinforced concrete raft 200 mm.)
  22. Dreadnaught
    Not sure quite yet. Hoping it will be much less than a third more than a triple glazing. I am hoping the extra cost will be low (probably a vain hope). I agree that the law of diminishing returns rules here with more-and-more glazing layers. But following the fabric-first mantra, I am keen to spend money lowering the U-value of roof windows if I can, especially as I have 9 m² of them. Using @Jeremy Harris's heat-loss calculator brought it home to me how much heat is lost through them.
  23. Dreadnaught
    Yes. Or use a SunAmp to store the cheap heat, which can then be imparted in to the raft at leisure. This has been suggested to me by my M&E adviser.
  24. Dreadnaught
    Theft is a major concern. As soon as my build will be weathertight, I am sorely tempted to camp within, torch-in-hand. My plot (just a garden at present) has been broken-in-to once already since I have been its owner (!!)
  25. Dreadnaught
    I'm considering quad glazing for my (nine) rooflights.
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