SteamyTea

I hope someone is going to insulate all the pipes.

Not much. Fitting UFH may cost you more to run. Still, loosing the radiators is a good move.

W/m.K Or W.m-1.K-1 or even W/(m.K)

That was a design flaw, not the materials. I think this is part of the problem, we don't spend much on designing houses. We spend a lot on styling them, but that is only part of the process. Passivhaus at least tries to make a stab at it, and the software (well spreadsheet) is probably pretty good. Then someone comes along and sticks a window in the wrong place, and then, refuses to do anything to mitigate the problem, and then tells everyone 'Passivehaus is rubbish, it overheats".

Or not.

I would be reluctant to have a domestic 'machine' on two supplies. Single isolation is much safer.

Or go back to Barratt Homes in the late 1980s. It is sometimes hard to disaggregate and isolate the real causes of failures, it could be choice of materials, design failure, construction detail.

As Dave said. But as a general rule, heat loss and heat gain have different 'curves'. So the energy needed to heat something up is greater than the energy lost during cooling, this is because during the heating stage, energy is also being lost. The greater the temperature differences, the greater the losses (look up Newton's Law of Cooling). So with all things being equal (which they won't be), limiting the temperature rise to the minimum acceptable (your 20°C to 21°C) is the better option. The unequal things are: efficiency of heat source, external inputs and outputs (solar gain and opening doors), changes is external temperature, Internal inputs and outputs (cooking, bathing, ventilation).

Seems to me that any method can fail. I had a Victorian brick house, noise transmission was dreadful, save with my Portland Stone and Cob place. I also had a Lightweight Block and Brick place, good insulation, very little sound transmission, but all the plaster was cracking, except on the timber stud wall. Now got a timber frame place, noise transmission is pretty good, but as it is terraced, when a neighbour slams an external door (they have moved on thankfully), all 4 of the houses shake. I think this is to do with the airtightness. Now for things going right, and an analogy. If I go and buy a tin of Heinz beans, I know exactly what I am getting. But I can over cook them to a mush, or microwave them so only the top layer is cooked (microwaves don't really cook from the inside). So a Timber Frame is nearly always going to leave the factory as good as it can be, it then gets corrupted on site. Bricks are generally made to a good size tolerance, and a good bricklayer will put them in the right place. Design is very important though. A house can be built out of just about any solid material, just that they will have different limitations. Try and cheat those limitations and you get problems, work with them and life will be good. Insulation is a difficult one as it must be designed with airtightness in mind. This is why sheet insulation is so good, follow the instructions and you get airtighness as well. wool insulations need to be isolated from external air movement, so an outer leaf will been to be made airtight, after that, moving inwards, it matters not a jot, the warm air is trapped. ICF, on the face of it, seems to 'cure' all these problems, but it does require very good onsite skill levels (like a brick built place). But it seems to cause a a lot of people problems, but that may be because they lack experience. I don't see many ICF housing estates, but I see a lot of factory built TF ones. This "Time, Quality, Cost" pick any two, is wrong, go can have all three, just looked to the automotive industry and see what you can buy for £15,000.

Yes, and even worse is

First things first, for safety. Check your earths.

It almost certainly will. The metals in the element will get hot first, very hot. Then stay hot after power us removed. With a small volume of water there is just not enough buffering to cope.

I found out that our 'gas man' at work has just got his MCS accreditation. Not had a long chat with him about it yet, but did ask if he was willing to certify a self install. Yes, with some caveats.

Or keep the insulation airtight for that matter.

Thankfully not. Have stayed in too many hotels, for too many years.

As you managed to get the link dialog box show up, you must be logged into the account. To send the link you need to copy the link, there is a handy icon to do that. Then go to your usual email and paste it into that. Fill in the rest of the email i.e. who you are sending it to and a subject, then send it.

Better get the tape and sealants out.

"around 3.4 m3/m2/hr" Is that based on footprint, liveable, total floor or exposed area? I can never remember, but seem to think that air tests are exposed area, which makes the losses quite high.

There should be an option to share the file. Usually an icon like this. Or it may be a link icon in Drive. Click once on the file, then click on the chain icon, a box appears with the link in it, copy that and send it to the recipient.

No, was just the result. Go to Google's home page, find the bit to create an account. You do not need to have your iPad registered. Create an account, don't think you even need a telephone number. Then you can share files once they are uploaded. It is a very easy system to use. https://accounts.google.com/signup/v2/webcreateaccount?hl=en&flowName=GlifWebSignIn&flowEntry=SignUp

And breath in the arsenic fumes. Best avoided.

Rather than a table saw, how about a band saw. Would need to get one with a decent throat. I use, for small jobs, a kitchen knife. There is a very good chance I will stab myself one day. And if you think the dust is bad, try cutting composite plastics, then you will know what bad is.

12V, much safer. Just get the best IP rating you can (IP is the waterproofing)

Ah, Cholchester. Fortress of the War God Camulos

Or wasn't. I can think up better terms, and use a special character set to publish them.