SteamyTea

I found out that our 'gas man' at work has just got his MCS accreditation. Not had a long chat with him about it yet, but did ask if he was willing to certify a self install. Yes, with some caveats.

Or keep the insulation airtight for that matter.

Thankfully not. Have stayed in too many hotels, for too many years.

As you managed to get the link dialog box show up, you must be logged into the account. To send the link you need to copy the link, there is a handy icon to do that. Then go to your usual email and paste it into that. Fill in the rest of the email i.e. who you are sending it to and a subject, then send it.

Better get the tape and sealants out.

"around 3.4 m3/m2/hr" Is that based on footprint, liveable, total floor or exposed area? I can never remember, but seem to think that air tests are exposed area, which makes the losses quite high.

There should be an option to share the file. Usually an icon like this. Or it may be a link icon in Drive. Click once on the file, then click on the chain icon, a box appears with the link in it, copy that and send it to the recipient.

No, was just the result. Go to Google's home page, find the bit to create an account. You do not need to have your iPad registered. Create an account, don't think you even need a telephone number. Then you can share files once they are uploaded. It is a very easy system to use. https://accounts.google.com/signup/v2/webcreateaccount?hl=en&flowName=GlifWebSignIn&flowEntry=SignUp

And breath in the arsenic fumes. Best avoided.

Rather than a table saw, how about a band saw. Would need to get one with a decent throat. I use, for small jobs, a kitchen knife. There is a very good chance I will stab myself one day. And if you think the dust is bad, try cutting composite plastics, then you will know what bad is.

12V, much safer. Just get the best IP rating you can (IP is the waterproofing)

Ah, Cholchester. Fortress of the War God Camulos

Or wasn't. I can think up better terms, and use a special character set to publish them.

Just a cheap phone and an even cheaper ISP. Worth getting a google account for just throwing up rubbish when you need to.

This But this is not about me, it is about Zoot bothering to check his broadband speed

I just made a 2 minute video, 259 MB, uploaded it to a Google account. Took one minute.

That size file would take about 40 minutes to upload from my phone (what I use to connect to the internet). My phone uploads at about 10 mb/s. So as @Onoff said, check your connection speed. It may only be 1 or 2 mb/s. So could be 5 to 10 times longer. I would also be very surprised if an Apple product could not compress a video file. Everyone in the world knows that Apples are the only viable platform to edit video and images on (this is irony, they are no better than anything else, and if people telly you different, walk away from them, Apple users are total bores that know very little about IT).

Is it to allow easy nailing of the edges.

And Celotex failed some of the thermal conductivity tests

I don't understand the y-axis "Usable Hot Water Mass per Installed Mass (kg/kg)". Both cylinders are above parity.

To get close you 'net zero' on your energy you need to work out the house heat loads (not that hard) plus your domestic hot water (DHW). Then you can calculate the size of a PV system. A guy on here, who has now vanished, has a house with about 150m2 livable area, an ASHP, MVHR with built in heat pump, plus some extra cooling, and got to net zero with around 6.25 kW of PV. That basically sets your roof size, which, for a fairly basic house design, sets your floor area. The important things to remember is that any shading on the roof kills PV performance, and if you spend a lot of time in it, then East, South and West facing modules may be more beneficial. Roof intergrated PV can work out cheaper than tiling, and it can help a lot with cooling as it reduces the solar radiation getting though into the house but about 20%. Forget a ground source heat pump, just not worth the extra money in my opinion. Spend that saved case on decreasing the overall thermal losses of the house, what we call 'fabric first'. This means you need to exceed building regulations' minimum standards, by quite a bit, especially with airtightness. So your walls will be thicker, as will your roof. If you go for underfloor heating, then you need a lot of insulation under for house, and around the periphery with some designs. Airtightness is all about uncontrolled losses, you want to control the losses, via the MVHR. But try and pick an area where people do not burn coal and wood, count the local chimneys. Liking a 'a lot of light' can become expensive. Not just the costs of extra glazing, but extra heating during the winter nights, and extra cooling during the spring and autumn, when the sun is lower in the sky, but still churning out a lot of energy. So think very carefully about this. Putting in blinds, Brise soleils, reflective film, noble gasses and special coatings, is really a patch for poor design. They are just cutting out the light (though some of the films allow more UV than IF though). Careful orientation of the glazing is more important than the overall size. I see some great houses on the south Cornish Coast, they have fantastic view, and then blinds over the windows. The better places are on the North Coast, they only need the blinds in the summer. You can pipe in natural light with sunpipes, or design your own, they are only mirrors. Can't help much about the garden, but trees can be a mixed blessing. They are useful to reduce the effects of the prevailing wind, but then they shade your PV. So choose carefully. And will you need a sewage plant and a bore hole for fresh water? As with any project, make the big decisions first, then research the details. And two important things kW and kWh, they are different, learn the difference and people will be very impressed. Shall leave you to research them.

Kept out of this so far as it is about buying a plot, which I know nothing about. But I am interested in the 'eco' and sustainable bit. What are you actually trying to achieve here?

Just do it with properly bonded GRP (red lines)

Usually, we try and stop mould forming. Now we can just put it in at the beginning.

Good man