SteamyTea
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Posts
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Joined
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Days Won
195
Everything posted by SteamyTea
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Does it need an expansion vessel? Agree that UVC are useful for limited flow showers. But probably not cheaper than vented and a 100 quid pump.
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I think even water at 97°C can do some damage. Even at 70°C it can kill you.
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Or i may not, this time.
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This problem can be tackled another way: looking at components needed. So a simple vented system has a cylinder, an immersion heater (or 2), a feed and expansion tank, a ballcock valve, couple of isolator valves. What does a unvented system have?
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But it didn't. I think they may make them out of a plastic that has a deformation temperature higher than 100°C now. Old galvanised tanks did not have this problem,
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All these 'safety' features add cost and complexity to a system. Mine has a pipe out the top, that then goes into the cold F&E, which can then overflow to the outside. Now these have failed, and killed people (was a case down here a few years back). I think fitting the thermal fuse to the heating element was a good move, means people need to check out what really went wrong (though re-settable ones are a bad idea). No one commented on my ECOCENT (but find a cheaper version) solution. I know the newer ones can take heat from outside now, so one down side of them has gone.
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Just noticed a new abbreviation creeping in: TS = Toolstation TS = Thermal Store. Not that anyone really knows what a thermal store is.
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@J1mbo made a comment about HPs and simple vented systems with pumped showers. Would link to it, but can't seem to do if from my phone.
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Do not put it outside I should have been a bit clearer for the OCD/Asperger people. When I say outside, build an 'insulated shed'. Then plumb in as normal. This is a thread about getting cheap DHW, not the ultimate installation.
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Rather a lot, I use about 30 litre of water at 38°C My 200lt can supply enough for 2 baths and 2 showers, I just turn the temp up to 60°C+
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I use a very basic 200lt vented cylinder with two immersion heaters. The E7 at the bottom and the booster one from the top. Simple pipework, one up to the feed and expansion tank in the loft, one down from there to the bottom of the cylinder, and another off the top of it for hot water (which also has the expansion/safety pipe that runs up to above the F&E tank. I fitted a simple electric twin impeller shower pump that needed a pipe from the F&E for the cold side. Simple, very cheap, reliable and once I had insulated the airing cupboard, not mush in the way of thermal losses. You can get this kind of combined cylinder and heat pump. https://www.earthsaveproducts.com/products/ecocent But look on Alibaba as the units are bought in from China. There is also a Sunamp if space is very tight. Or even an inline electric water heater, as you have no gas. You say space is tight, do you have space outside?
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First question, how much insulation under the slab do you have? And for that matter, your friends, he may just be keeping the worms and moles warm.
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Or chaotic
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Just talk about cloud. or lottery ticket winners.
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is that a real word? Oh yes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stochastic
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Needs a different glue. Ow about a cheap plastic box, the kind they sell in PoundStretchers (which is misnamed as a £ is a fixed size and mass, though, due to FOREX, can have a different purchase price, even if the purchase price parity is similar)
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You can't. It comes down to the statistical probabilities of the stochastic nature of weather and house usage. Or just make of from plastic. Easy to get a sheet of PVC and some 'plumbers plastic pipe glue'.
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It is not the material, it is the temperature and humid hitting the dew point. Dew Point Temperature = Observed Temperature -((100 - Relative Humidity) / 5) OR Dew Point Temperature = ((HUMIDITY/100)^(1/8))*(112+(0.9*TEMP))+0.1*TEMP-112
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Heating design, calcs and process - ASHP/UFH
SteamyTea replied to SuperJohnG's topic in Underfloor Heating
Any help https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/heat-emission-radiators-d_272.html Yes, it is very annoying and assumes that people never make an error, and are always re-reading their posts within half and hour pf writing them. also found this list https://www.aelheating.com/blog/how-to-calculate-delta-t/ 5 0.050 10 0.123 15 0.209 20 0.304 25 0.406 30 0.515 35 0.629 40 0.748 45 0.872 50 1.000 55 1.132 60 1.267 65 1.406 70 1.549 75 1.694 -
Stuck tap washer, get the tools out.
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I had to Google it. https://kosnic.com/dali-push-1-10v-dimming-whats-difference-choose/ Seems that a short push turns on or off, hold down for longer and the output changed.
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Building Regs is only one interpretation of the laws. Not sure how much the actual BSI standards woukd cost to buy, but worth asking local library if they have access to a copy.
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You could consider a Sunamp. Though they may have other problems. Space heating can be done with storage heaters, then take advantage of the cheaper night rate. As this is a rental, getting rid of gas is a sensible move, saves on annual certificates, servicing and, if it does leak gas, a 'Ronan Point'.
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Have you calibrated the unit? Some need to be placed outside where PPM is about 420.
