SteamyTea
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Posts
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Joined
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Days Won
190
Everything posted by SteamyTea
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Worth reading old @Ed Davies blog about it. https://edavies.me.uk/2017/03/vapour/ -
I grew up in a place with concrete roads, don't remember any cracks like this in them. Mind you, the surface was not flat, was more a load of semi-circular ridges.
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I am interested in what causes this cracking. Is it just too much water in the mix, or the wrong temperature, or even the wrong mix of aggregates. Or maybe the UFH pipework causing a stress raiser. I can understand that a very large slab may have problems, why they put in expansion and contraction joints. But most houses are not huge in the scheme of things.
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We had an exceptionally mild autumn, so your screen should be OK. The 1mm/day is a bit of a hand wavy number. Wet processes in buildings cause so many problems. It is about time the industry moved on and stopped using them.
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Send me a copy and i shall see if it is rights protected. Though I think you can copy and past on the Kindle.
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As a sanity check yes.
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Have you got a copy of SPONS? Maybe more useful at this stage than a spreadsheet.
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You can private message each other on here. In the drop down menu. Small envelope.
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It cost me £600 to get my Part P electrical testing certificate. Could easily save that on a full house rewire. Not sure how much the equivalent GasSafe costs to do, no gas where I am. Not sure if you actually have to be a Chartered Engineer to do all the structural calculations, for a house they are pretty basic (compared to an automobile). So you could probably do your own and let Building Control check them (just don't tell them you DIYed them). There are probably plenty of ways to save money on a self build that are easier than buying a container full of chipboard cupboards and Chinese roof slates.
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Praise the Lord https://www.isaaclord.co.uk/product-category/ironmongery/door-furniture/
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They spend a lot less on land, the professional fees are spread over many houses, completely different purchasing and supply chain systems, equipment utilisation is much better, design is standardised to reduce waste and time. If a small developer makes any money, it is because they take so long to build that house prices have risen. They would have been better off just buying land and getting planning on it. There isn't really brass in muck.
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One problem with putting in a header tank in a living or sleeping area is that they can be noisy.
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You should be able to isolate it all very easily. It is part of the design criteria.
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Get a washing line, costs 2 quid (with pegs from Poundland) and uses 0 kWh.year-1. If you are doing the roof with Dormers in it, will these cause any shading issues?
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You could try totally isolating it for a few hours. So isolate invert, isolate the modules and flick the MCB at the consumer unit. The in the morning turn it all back on (in the correct order). Be thankful it is winter when it is not generating much.
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Not to me it does not. You need to work out how long the heat source will run for. Water takes 0.0116 kWh.kg-1.K-1 So 10 lt will take 0.116 kWh.K-1 So it also depends on the hysteresis you are working to. 5 K would be fine, 2 K would not.
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Do you know what flow rate you have coming into the property?
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By working out the power needed and runtimes. Then compare it to what the heat pump manufacturers recommend. Or put in 100 lt if you must work with a gut feeling. Oversize is better.
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What does it say here about shower flow rates? https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/504207/BR_PDF_AD_G_2015_with_2016_amendments.pdf
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You gone Bodmin.
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'ansum
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Have you given MacSalvors a call?
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Meet you all at the Swordfish Inn. Only place to party.
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We get boat loads of better stuff coming into Newlyn every night.
