SteamyTea

Why don't they just make a plug that you can wire your appliance to.

What happened to the old saying that more than two shakes is a masturbate.

When I go hiking, I use wet wipes. Grown to like the feeling, almost.

You have to be careful if voltage drop. I think PV has a 2% limit. Can you run the DC side longer?

My work is done. Till next time.

Any one thinking of installing HEAT PUMPS should read from page 62 onward of this report. Not that report, it is the one I posted up by mistake. This is the one to read. Maybe a mod can come and edit it to put it right.

That is only 0.0116 kWh/K. Or, if you raise the temperature by 15 K, 0.23 kWh, which at 3 kW will be up to temperature in 4.64 minutes. Think you really need more that that.

Cant really add to what @saveasteading says. As insulation is going to be a challenge, unless you want to loose a lot of internal area, focus on airtightness. If you are eating ll the air in the place, then every 15 minutes it is leaking out, and you have to heat it all over again, it is going to be expensive. As you do not seem to have very large windows, there is not much to be gained there, except making sure they are fitted properly and air is not getting between the walls and the frame. The ground floor is probably the one area to have a serious think about, if there is a void underneath it, then you need to properly insulate but still allow for air movement. The basic rule with insulation is 'the thicker the better'. Why the thermal conductivity has the units W.m-1.K-1. You cannot control the temperature, as that is weather dependant, so all you can do it pick the lowest k Value and put as much as you can on the walls, floor and ceiling. k Value = W.m-1.K-1 R Value = l / W.m-1.K-1, where l is thickness of insulation. U Value is 1 / R Value, and has the more understandable units of W.m-2.K-1

Santa comes once a year, but he fills a sack.

Have you ever measured the temperature to see what it actually is. Probably nowhere near as hot as you imagine. It this a common occurrence? There may be better ways than a polluting log burner.

Look for any penetration that are right though the wall, so things like pipes, waste pipes, electrical cables. Then look at how well the windows/doors are fitted, they may be well sealed on the inside, but may be allowing air to travel to the cavity (a cavity is there for weather protection, not insulation), finally look at the joining of the roof to the walls as you have a conversation, air may be getting in there. There is probably not a lot you can do about the floor to the ground floor flat, just if there is a draught by the skirting board, may be worth investigating there. Airtightness has to be considered with humidity control though. You will hear terms like Airtight Membrane/Barrier/Wrapping and Vapour Control Layer, they are not the same thing. The airtight barrier allows moisture though, and is on the outside, the vapour control layer is to stop moisture, and is on the inside. Basically to control temperature and humidity, you live inside an airtight box, that is inside an insulated, but breathable box, that is inside a wind tight, but even more breathable bag, that is inside something to keep the rain out. Then you put two pipes into the living area, one to draw air out, and another to allow air in. How that air exchange is done is either passively or mechanically.

Right, I missed that in your introduction. I assume that sound insulation has been fitted, which acts as a pretty good insulator as well in conversions. Airtightness is worth looking into. Th less draughts you get the better. The important thing is that you do not want external air bypassing insulation, that defeats of purpose of insulation. Once you get a place airtight, then it is time to think about ventilation systems to control humidity levels.

Depends on how low the output can go and you can insulate a buffer, and the structure it is is in. Just a case of doing the sums.

You may want to consider insulating the floor. This can mean digging out the old one, but well worth it if you are staying in the place a few years.

Depending on the size of heat pump to load, and the thermal heat capacity of the heating system, you can usually turn the heating off for a few hours.

Get the SS ones black powder coated.

Newhome has resistance heating I think, not an ASHP.

Whoops, try this one. hot_water_cylinders_buffer_tanks_heat_pumps.pdf

Does this tank have to be indoors? Can you design it into your cycle shed? If the total mass is 40 kg, that is not much water to put a fire out with.

What makes them think that? Would it be lack of insulation under the UFH that was relying on the higher temperature supply from a wood burner? I posted up a link to a report about ASHP and stuff that includes buffers. report about heating.pdf

I use a Raspberry Pi Zero W with 3 1-wire DS18B20 temperature sensor. One is on the input pipe, one on the output pipe and the other is in the cold storage tank in the loft. Not ideal, but gives a good idea of what is happening.

Ad that is after the anal clean, whoops, annual. Had a call from my sister this morning asking to bring up a bog plunger, seems she has blocked the bog at my Mother's. Just like she used to when we were kids.

Had to look that up.

You, @Onoff, @joe90, @Omnibuswoman and my bathroom.

I have only had about 5 Pis connect using host names and not had a problem, but may play sometime in the future when I am not commuting up country every weekend.