SteamyTea

Had a girlfriend whose parents lived in Aintree. One day, when they were out in the back garden, they heard a noise at the front of the house. Went in and some bloke was robbing their TV. when asked what he was doing, his reply was 'nicking your TV', walked off with it, put it in his van and drove off. Not sure if Alan Bleasdale was a neighbour.

Timber is a man well worth listening to. Not sure if he still posts. One advantage of pouring after the studs are in, is that the cast area is smaller, so probably less chance of shrinking causing cracking. Just put a break in by all doorways.

Depends, lots, or none on a PFI.

Not been there much since the 1980s, cost you a new set of car wheels every night visit won't it. Look up GSE Integrated PV, not that ugly silver bolt on stuff.

No need to be smugly and nitpicky over a general concept you have only just discovered. Makes you act like a teenage WOKE.

OK. The title of the thread becomes more appropriate.

We may find out as someone on here DIYed and failled to notify their DNO.

No, now wash your mouth out with soap.

I suspect that the DNOs have to look at a much bigger picture. If there proportion of micro generation gets too large, grid stability issues may arise. I suspect that the 16A per phase is vert much on the safe side. Would be a worry if on a scattered cloud day an extra MW of poorly unregulated PV caused a 3 GW nuclear power station to go off line. We saw what two independent faults did in August 2019.

Poetry is easily done Just take a Bob Dylan song And rearrange the words https://www.bobdylan.com/songs/i-dont-believe-you-she-acts-we-never-have-met/

You would need a BMS, hopefully with MPPT to charge the batteries. Is there any reason to just spur off the DC side, before the inverter, to a BMS. Not sure how the load sharing will work, but if the BMS takes less load than the inverter, then charging is reduced, and visa versa. You can also tap of at a more suitable voltage for the BMS. Don't think they like 600V+.

Misread blue tops. Down here, there is a group of female, cold water swimmers. They are called The Blue Tits. I wish the ones that park in the road, blocking in legitimately parked cars, would fail to rise.

Maybe @joe90 has a similar problem.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_McGonagall

Yes, you can get what they call 'islanding' systems, and purely stand alone systems. How would you switch between your stored energy and grid energy for when you need extra power that the PV/battery system cannot supply i.e. 3 to 4 months in the winter. You also, when it come to calculating the cost, need to put a price on lost generation i.e. system losses, unused generation potential.

With limited testing/development, then send the bill to the MOD for £13bn. Unless you have a mate in the government, then up the bill o £37bn.

20 years ago, my night rate was around a third of the day rate. Now it is over half the day rate. E7 was designed for nuclear power, which did not happen at the scale first envisioned. I am not sure that there will be an E7 system continuing for much longer. More going to be dynamic pricing, which will be fun as people struggle to grasp the concept of E7. Think my E7 time window as changed recently, must check.

This is one of my concerns, especially as my house is tiny. The two places I have been in with them, I never noticed them at first. Both were good size rooms, probably 40m2. Which is about the liveable area of my house.

Yes, got the storages on, probably put 13.5 kWh into them this morning. I had just been cleaning the house, so I probably put in another 0.25 kWh.

Just noticed my house is at 22⁰C, no wonder the RH is low today.

I have a radio in my bathroom. Hardly spend long enough in there to take much advantage of it.

Welcome. When you say a 'new roof', do you mean just new slates, or a complete new roof? Have you considered roof integrated PV, PV modules are often cheaper than slates, so may work out cheaper and you get some electricity.

Do you know how much you use at the moment? If not, find out, it will help no end and take most of the guess work away. There may be a condensation problem if the PIR restricts vapour transmission too much. Have you considered Air to Air Heat Pump/s. Depending on the house layout they may be the cheapest option for space heating, and as they do not get RHI, it takes the time pressure off you. They get a better CoP than a wet system. You say you use little DHW, but have you thought of using a PV diverter to the cylinder to optimise self generation usage?

Regarding the DNO refusing permission to connect a heat pump. They are not stupid, they know that nearly all ASHPs are inverter driven, and that customers will quote the maximum thermal energy output. Because of this confusion they can legitimately claim that a local upgrade is needed, an upgrade that probable needs doing anyway, but at the customers expense, rather than their own. Call them up and say you know what they are up to, give them the model spec and I am sure they will let you connect it. These, as Susie says, are just immersion heaters. They have the advantage of being cheap and easy to install. You may be able to use them in a similar manner, in conjunction with your concrete slab, as a storage heater on E7. Just a case of running the numbers and seeing what comes out. The thing is with a wet UFH system is that it really needs to be put in the slab, hard to do after the slab is poured. You do need a decent amount of properly installed, insulation under that slab, you don't want to heat the ground under your house. A very expensive way to store DHW, but they are relatively small for the energy they do store. There is also a question mark of their reliability and longevity. I like the technology behind them, but seems excessive to store a few kWh of thermal energy. And you will need a water softener if you are in a harder water area (not a problem in Cornwall, well not my granity end anyway).

If you can add it now, you should. You can calculate how bad the cold bridging will be. White Pine has an across the grain conductivity of 0.12 W.m-1.K-1. PIR is around 0.03 12 W.m-1.K-1. Convert to the thickness dependant R-Value, along with the rest of the wall construction ( thickness divided by conductivity), add the all up, then convert to the U-Value (1/R). Don't for get the roof. You may find that is easier to do as well. And you have 50m2 of that. Be nice if he could fit an energy meter at the same time. Then you can see how much you are using. https://www.manomano.co.uk/energy-monitors-2271