SteamyTea

About what I used to heat my house yesterday. Are they still allowed to be sold? With electrical equipment there is an upper power rating for standby.

I think once pumping costs and cycling is taken into account, 55 60 60%. Simply way to find out, turn a room radiator off and put a fan heater in the same room, measure the differences.

Good luck getting that from an oil burner attached to a domestic central heating system. You only need to stand by the flu and feel what is coming out.

That is about 100 litres of gas. Seems a lot to me.

Has the inefficiency of the oil burner been taken into account. Could be closer to 50 to 55 kWhth delivered. So down to 20 or less needed from PV.

It is worth remembering why a VCL is fitted. It is to stop humidity condensing on hidden cold surfaces.

What make and is it saffron cake.

Is it take water from the base of the cylinder and returning it to the top? You have a greater temperature drop, over time, at the cylinder base. Can you check the flow direction?

I get upset if I use over 20 kWh/day.

Nails, screws and bolts all work differently. Hand nailing can be a bit of a pain if access is limited.

Drill clearance holes and countersink the heads, it will pull down better onto the adhesive.

Which is based on Physics.

Complain that we only get 5p/kWh for exporting it, instead of 50p/kWh.

Climate zone is more to do with the land/ocean ratio and altitude.

Welcome And Longitude

It will be raining again soon.

Welcome It is about time we had a useful chemist on here again. My knowledge is very limited in the black art and usually involves a bucket and stick.

You may still need a battery, all be a smallish one, to get the heat pump started. Then you need some way to stop overvoltage if the PV array is too large. So quite a bit of electronics involved. It is not like wiring up a torch.

Condolences on your Brother. Not sure what else to say.

May be getting another soon.

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-General-Purpose-Hardboard-Sheet---3mm-x-1220mm-x-2440mm/p/110107

Not really as it is an electronic speed controller. When drilling masonry, you are really chiselling it, unlike drilling an elastic material like steel. You really won't come to any harm with a 700W drill and a 7mm drill bit and n 100 year old brick.

Thought you might have been. Get the smallest masonry bit you have, drill at top speed, you will find it goes in no problem. Then get the drill bit you actually need, probably 7mm for a 'brown' wall plug, and follow down the original whole. You can always practice against the wall outside in the courtyard. The biggest problem with drilling through plaster is when you hit between brick and mortar, that throws the position off.

Can she add some hardboard over the OSB, and that will get rid of any worries and give a much better surface to adhere to.

Not always. It is hard to calculate as it is marginal generation that counts. So if you swap your FF energy supply to a finite RE supply, the difference is made up by either someone else swapping to FF or extra marginal FF generation. In reality, as we are heading to a low CO2 generation system, electrification is the best way forward, as well as energy reduction.