SteamyTea

Cause I got a different car and sneak past the prison unnoticed.

Not sure if that is better or worse than ours, where the builder decided what is important. (I was in Aylesbury last week)

Is this it? domestic-heating-design-guide.pdf

Is Romania except from the https://eurocodes.jrc.ec.europa.eu/

Probably. They seem to know what they are doing and understand the technology. Work out the weighted mean of the building regs each part is built to.

Not that, just seemed an odd thing to do. By quoting properly, everyone can see it, and who it was from/to and the original poster gets notified, so they get a chance to answer or clarify.

That will be kWh, which is the energy used, kW is the power. That is really your problem, you are loosing energy though your walls all the time. What is the rest of the wall buildup? Have you seen, or done your own, heat loss calculations? Also makes me wonder how much insulation is under for underfloor heating pipes. Can you get a PV diverter that can divert excess power that would have gone to the grid, diverted directly to a heating element in your 200 lt water cylinder. Maybe heat the cylinder up to a higher temperature. You could fit some old fashioned night storage heaters that are heated directly from excess PV, call them day storage heaters. Not a very large house, but it should not be taking anything like the energy it is by the sounds of it. Have you checked your PV production against PVGIS, just to make sure it is working as expected? You can also look at typical meteorological data there as well.

Strange that, my piss seems unlimited as well, every few hours there is more. Would leaving it against your kitchen door sort the problem?

Slate is a sedimentary stone, clay is a sediment. Sedimentary stone/rock is basically clays and silts that gas been compressed, then often heated to a low temperature, basically how they make clay tiles. So tell them it is the same thing.

Do you have problems quoting text? Noticed this in many of your posts when you reply to someone.

Call up National Grid (DNO) and ask to speak to the department that actually deals with PV installations, rather than just a general customer service department that will almost certainly say 'no'. When I was dealing with them (Western Power back then, they were extremely helpful as it saved them bother in the long term. Used to deal with a guy called Paul, at the main office in Redruth, next to the college.

I think part of the problem with most energy companies is that the genuine errors should not be happening in the first place i.e. incorrect meter reading, simple change of address not happening. My recent experience has been that there is an assumption that all errors are the customer's fault, and that the customer is trying to rob them. And then I here is the outright lies. You can sit Infront of your computer and see the daily files, while at the same time being told that the meter is not reporting the data. I never like to look for a conspiracy, when incompetence can explain it, but I am starting to wonder if some sharp business practice is going on. I recently changed car, so had to get a new insurance quote. My old insurer could not compete, so took out a new policy. Told my old insurer to make sure that auto renewal was switched off (I never auto renew anyway), told it had been, then had £600+ taken out of my account. What really bugs me though is that nearly all the companies I have dealt with recently have been 'updating' their systems. One of them have had the same message for at least 15 months, so I guess it is a Fujitsu system. The other is the message about being polite to the call handlers. If the companies feel the need to put that message up, they know they have a problem. They need to deal with the problem, not the symptoms of their incompetence.

It is when buying pans for an induction hob. There are many different grades of stainless steel, some even stain a brown colour.

Ask @craig he will probably know who makes them. And alternatives.

They could buy a zoo.

Me to. Back in the 1980s, we manufactured the body kits for the Colt Gallant. It was pointed out that the pattern work was pretty rough and it looked like the corner of the front bumper/spoiler had already hit a wall. Colt Cars refused to have it put right and told use to carry on manufacturing. Every single Gallant I saw my eye was drawn to the front nearside corner. At the boat show once, I was chatting to the Sunseeker salesman and pointed out that the moulds for their latest models must have been rushed as there was a waviness to them. I think it was my comment "at half a million quid I would expect better" that pissed him off. I bet he saw nothing else on every one of their boats after that though.

Should always be the starting point, make a problem smaller.

Well apart from we have already paid for it, it allows anyone, maybe with a bit of effort, to check. In today's parlance, we call it transparency. A simple example, that can make a large difference, is displaying numbers. You need to know if they are truncated, how many significant figures they are to, how many decimal places, if applicable, were they created from a mean or a median, or even a mode value, and what was the sampling rate and where those numbers rounded up or down, truncated etc. Makes a big difference in some circumstances.

Why the general public should be allowed to see the standards for free.

TL;DR I suspect that you don't have much insulation under your floors and the flow temperature though the UFH is set too high to compensate. Jersey has a very similar climate to where I am (Cornwall), so luckily you don't have a long heating season (mine is almost over), so better thermal management may pay dividends i.e. more selective timing of when the heating is on. The physics of heat loss is really quite simple, but often made to look difficult. Basically changing a heating system does not change how much energy the house uses, though a heat pump may, if designed correctly, reduce the amount you import/pay. The British have got too used to heating systems that blast out heat at a great rate, warm the house up, then let it cool down, then blast out heat again. While this may seem to be an effective method, what is actually happening is that there is a cycle of constant over heating and over cooling, it is like driving in Jersey, either accelerating or braking, never cruising. Now for some terminology clarification. kW, not Kw, or KW or kw, or even killer what, is the power of your system. kWh, not KWH, kWh, kw/h or killa wot our, is the energy. It is the power, multiplied by the time. Think of the power [kW] as how powerful your car engine is, and the energy [kWh] as how much fuel it uses]. Your 600 litre AVC is how large the fuel tank is. So your is really 100 kWh/day. 100 [kWh] / 24 [h] = 4.17 kW or at 0°C 5 kW Now as your house is 1800 square foot, which is really 167 m2, (keeping it all metric makes life easy) your heat load is 0.025 kW/m2, which is not dreadful, though on here we like to get below 0.010 kW/m2 [10 W/m2]. Mine is currently 0.011 W/m2, and apart from curing nearly all the bad air leaks, adding in some extra loft insulation and adding secondary glazing to my old timber frames double glazed units, makes my 1987 build pretty good. So what do to. Initially keep records i.e. internal and external temperatures, energy usage and behaviour patterns (if you are away or have extra people stay). See how much loft insulation you have and find out what is below your ground floor, insulation wise. Find and fix any leaky windows or doors, if there is a draught, cure it. Check how much heat is coming out of your water storage cylinders, this is easy to do with an infrared thermometer as you just check the cylinder external temperature and the the water temperature. You may find that the storage temperature is a lot higher than what is needed. Heat loss is not linear, but hopefully most of that energy goes into the house anyway this time of year. Sketch up your house, with dimensions, and work out where the greatest heat losses are i.e. though walls, windows, floor, air leaks etc as that will show the best place to spend your money. As an example, the few cheap changes I did means I now us almost a quarter of the energy I used to when I first moved in. A heat pump, of any sort, should reduce the amount of imported energy, but there are some caveats. They have to be sized correctly for the heat load of the building, the power delivery, as a multiplier of the power in, is very sensitive to temperature differences. The smaller the temperature differences between outside and inside temperature AND between the inside temperature and the heat emitter (UFH in your case) temperature. This is why they are designed to match the most likely range of temperatures during the heating system i.e. 21°C inside, 8°C outside, emitter temperature >30°C. An air to air heat pump (A2AHP) is a good choice initially and there are some cheap units that can be easily installed. May be worth fitting one in the main living area as an experiment (a few people on here have a lot more experience and have fitted their own). Also worth remembering that your new house has a much larger exposed wall area, and probably much larger window area, but again, this is not the whole story as volume to exposed area ratio makes a difference, smaller houses have a worse ratio than larger ones (generally), bungalows are worse still (lots of floor and ceiling). And never trust sales people and most plumbers, very few will have studied thermodynamics at university.

Does it take them that long to learn a few punctuation marks () : . ==! You can see why I can't get it to work.

Most of them won't have started yet. What Easter break is for.

I don't think they would work out cheaper in reality because I have an odd usage pattern that does not fit in with the temporary time discounts that Octopus are offering. Octopus seem to be like the discount store at the scummy end of the high street, you pick up a bargain, but the next time you go in, it is not there anymore.

Taken me a couple of hours on the phone and several emails to get halfway to paying what I owe. EDF have been absolutely terrible recently. They estimated my bills, even though I have a smart meter, then they somehow estimated it totally wrong by getting the night rate and day rates swapped around, and now have gone silent when I asked for a full audit since the smart meter was installed. They also claimed that they were unable to communicate with my smart meter, even though I could see, and download, the daily files. I shall get some more compensation cash out of them. It is a real shame as I have been with EDF since they took over SWEB and had only one problem in the past with them (oddly enough that same swapping over numbers problem). Over at the other place, I ran a thread that people put their weekly meter readings into and we could see who was getting the best value for their size and location of property.

It is a real shame the the bodies we pay to develope this kind of service are not forced to open source the code, or at least the algorithm. I used to be able to get the BSI stuff from my local library, not anymore. Way I see it is that I paid for it to be created, then pay, through my council tax to have access to it, and now I can only see a copy if I pay full price.