SteamyTea

Has it faded at all there. Can't say I noticed the floor when I was there, which is a good thing. I tend to notice things that are wrong, not right.

When looking at life cycle kWh costs, always compare them to a gasoline generator as a reality check. Never compare them to unobtanium.

Possibly, but this way they only pay out at the end, so if inflation rises, then it may be cheaper. Without looking into it more, and I cannot be bothered, is it offering 8% a year, or 8% on your total investment after 5 years (1.6% before compounding)?

Would be interesting to follow this one for the next 5 years.

Convert them both to electric and save on having to get the gas checked and certificated each year.

So about 36 kWh of storage which is enough to run my house for a couple of days.

How much do you discharge them?

Not sure about self installation in the UK. You certainly can in the USA. I am a bit of a fan of I Beams and H columns. Was admiring a stairway that used them just yesterday. A lot of people also use wood fibre board for insulation. I think it can also be used structurally too. As for having a service void, you could fit conduit inside the wall panels and then just pull the cabling though. Have you thought of your cold bridging and air tightness details yet, especially around windows and doors (which should be easy for you).

Have you looked into pumped cellulose insulation? It has good thermal resistivity, a high SHC and good sound insulation.

That chart is just mortgage approvals, which is only part of the market i.e. the people that can't afford a house. There is also the technical definition of a recession, it is something like a reduction for two quarters. So prices will have to drop every month for 6 months to make it a recession.

I have not had a telly for over 20 years. Do you need one to look trendy?

The alternative is taxation, not sure that worked either. I bought 3 new cars and had to pay a 10% premium on each of them. Indications are that the London market is slowing, and that is what is skewing the figures, along with relatively low volume of sale.

Yes you do. It pays off later in life. All the accidents and adventures I had in vehicles taught me valuable roadcraft skills. I now get cheap insurance and very really scare myself these days. Glad it is not just me. 30 years of the indicator on the right and then they have to change it. Like my mothers fridge, for 22 years it was hinged on the right, now it is on the left. After 7 years, I still open it the wrong way (actually, I don't open it, just rock it a bit till the pot plant falls off).

7 years after getting rid of my Suzuki Swift, I still turn the wipers on when I intend to indicate. I like cars what were designed as right hand drive from the start.

Good news for those that are borrowing though, as long as it includes wage inflation. Sector inflation is the really important area to took at. The headline figures mean very little.

Quick chart to show the variation of solar radiation over a few years.

Welcome Nick Are building standards (official, not practice), really so different in the EU. I have not looked recently, but did a year or two back and found them very similar. You could enlighten us all on what is the best way to work out the U-Value of windows and frames, as many people struggle with it when designing a house.

Got mine from PiHut: https://thepihut.com/products/raspberry-pi-zero I bought the kit as I needed the HDMI adapter, the USB adapter and a new PSU. I have a USB to Ethernet cable on order. But to be honest, it is not as small as I hoped when things are plugged in (it would not fit within my CC energy monitor base), so shall stick with the normal ones.

Yes, I saw that, not much use for the DIYer though. I did get myself a Zero the other day. It is a pig to get networked reliably.

" Then, I stand up from my desk and try to get real work done "

How easy would it be to make a speed controller that can be set by pressure sensor data i.e. one inside, one outside. Ideally it would work from a laptop that can also log the pressure differences and voltage and current to the motor.

You can get the data here, if you ask nicely. https://badc.nerc.ac.uk/data/surface/radt_file_format.html I don't have time to look at it at the moment.

The UK had a brighter than usual year last year, unlike 2012 (I think), when it was unusually dark.

Are you going to heat the house when it is unoccupied? This could make a difference to your decisions. If it is left unheated during winter, then there is no need to have the HR part of the MVHR. During the warmer months, you probably don't want heating anyway, so the HR is not needed. I may be worth looking at a passive ventilation system, they are pretty basic really, but a pipe and a venturi. Why are you going for a wood burner? If the house is low energy, you will not need it for heating. If it is for 'cosiness' maybe think of something else.

It will depend on how the fan motor is cooled. If it relies on the incoming air, then it will be a problem. Not sure if you will get enough flow though the system to raise the pressure enough, but that is your you to find out. From an academic viewpoint, I think pressure testing should be both positive and negative. This will test any mechanical seals better (I have "V" seals on my back door). Also, testing should be repeated a few times over a period of time. One of the basic of good science is hypothesis testing and repeatability.