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Zero issues using compression on hep or any other plastic pipe. I have probably done more than 1000 over the years with not one leak and never any thought that they may leak down the line. I find if scratch not too bad a fine cleaning pad will smooth the pipe fine. But if any concern at all just cut it out!

Why bodge, do it right, you may never be able to get to the joint easily once the house is built. The right solution costs nothing, compared to another 50m of duct.

I recently designed a foundation like this for a client that used Nudura ICF. Ditch the old school 150mm sub deck, lose the screed, add a bit more insulation, and raise the 120-130mm constructional slab up to become your finished internal floor. This shows a near enough example, just has a different wall structure. The UFH pipes go into the concrete layer, so I recommend going slightly thicker with ground bearing infill slab to give some extra cover over the UFH pipes which get zip=tied to the reinforcement steel (re-bar). At 100mm this can get quite close to top of concrete, so the one I detailed had 120mm iirc, vs the 100mm. Gives a hell of a long 'thermal time constant' / energy store which you can almost heat once per night at cheap rate via ASHP for running costs down as low as a few pence/kWh. There are loads of examples of this being done here, so I suggest you do some searching on here before pushing any buttons, but your chosen method is not optimum for insulation, running costs, or practicality imho.

This is a desktop procedure / service, so you won't go wrong using Tanners in Ireland. A good few on here have used them and were very happy afaik. https://tsd.ie/

You can use the min input and output and put adjustable bend / 15 / 30 / 45o bends in and keep the same invert. It's usually only the branches that pick up the first few direct connections that will be affected, the downstream IC's can be in > out at the same invert. Agree on 1:100 being a tall ask of most groundworkers, but there are some good ones out there that will do this properly and successfully. I've had to run soil pipe literally horizontal and zero fall for up to 5m (in a straight line, no bends) and you'll be surprised at how well the momentum gets you "out of the sh*t". Not advising this of course, but I kept that arrow straight, zero depressions, and it works still to this day, 15+ years later (my mates parents house). THis was to get rid of a Saniflow that was constantly failing (due to "user error" most times), and I just got away with it. The pipe will need supports every 1200mm, made up of 6:1 concrete mix with 10mm aggregate, to create piers. This will allow you to level and flatten the pipe run perfectly. Use timbers driven into the ground to act as temporary 'brackets, every 1200mm, and then once dead on, you then fill with the concrete 500mm away from each timber bracket and leave to cure. Then remove the timbers and get to the pub. Be present for the back-filling and explain that this needs to be pea-shingle all the way back until you have 300mm of cover over the pipe. Can defo be done with excellent results, I've done enough to know, but you'll first have to ask your BCO if he will allow a deviation from 1:80 by you demonstrating that it works (functions) and explain the methodology and how you've mitigated against future depression with the higher frequency concrete piers and complete back-fill with shingle.

Yes. We have to stop burning carbon based fuels. Have you not seen the news this last month.

Could you post a site plan showing tree position and actual height, may be just one corner needs deeper footing!!

It is important that someone has responsibility for the design. You think it is mbc, but they haven't seen the ground or thd trees. Hence, perhaps, they rely on rafts. I suggest you read your proposed contract to see what the responsibilities and liabilities are. There are several loyal mbc blinds on here, so perhaps they can help. I can't really say any more than I have.

Thanks saveasteady. That is what I thought too. I assumed MBC would organise everything they needed for their SE but they don’t. It just makes me worry I am exchanging one risk for another.

R Wall ICF pretty common around those parts I believe

The scratches are pretty continuous so can't cut short and splice on a new bit using a Hep2O coupler to solve the issue. Wavin list their own Euroconus adaptor on their website, so its fully legit : https://www.wavin.com/en-sg/product/b7e4577d-69fb-44c2-a1e0-23ab58110bb2 Available from a few places [1] [2], (~£8 each or a pair unclear). There are others for the same diameter and wall thickness. I have also seen for 10mm pipes [3].

I am not a great fan of external floor level the same as internal FFL. Possible damp problems. Externally you need a bit of cover over the drains but on your drawing they could be run just under the external slot drain. If there is any way to avoid a pump station - even if fall is reduced to 1:80 - then do that. Is this Polarwall icf?

They said only 2 minutes of speech, not 3 minutes. It may be different, depending on the council. She has already written it down on a piece of paper and started practicing

What about cutting it elsewhere and only replacing a short section, joining these back together with a Hep coupler? There's zero compromise there, and these fittings are ultra-reliable. If Wavin support the use of the Euro fittings then of course go for it. If the pipe isn't coming out again then you just need to choose the most robust repair. Is the scratch constant, or have you found a section where it is possibly not an issue?

Aspect Nubuild

I'll wrap this up for you, as I do not have capacity to recall all the insurance jobs I've been through and everything in between. Apologies if this is a little concise. A 'plumber' with 30+ years of experience, now working mostly in 7 figure properties (very few have a 1 or a 2 as the first digit) is telling you something is a very bad idea, stop questioning it . Ringing a manufacturer to ask if there's a problem with their fittings / or a way it's fitted...........surprise!! They said it's fine. That's because their competitors spout the same shart and they want the sale. If I am saying you can avoid this with 50p worth of copper pipe and you wish to seek advice elsewhere then of course that is your prerogative, so, for the last time (please) do not do what you're suggesting. End transmission

Why is it going to committee when the planning department are in favour? Sorry if I have missed something. The ones I have followed around here, including my own, only went to committee if the local councillor (not the general public) had asked for that to happen. Be aware that the people who sit on planning committees are just ordinary people. The local councillors have some of them in their pockets and they all do each other "favours" which can be reciprocated at some time in the future. Do remember that you can take it to appeal at central government. It costs but mostly they seem to approve these small applications. As has been said the neighbours are all expected to complain but they must have a valid planning complaint. Our neighbours complained about our application but it was still approved. If you don't feel able to speak at the meeting see if you can find someone to do it for you. One of our architects spoke at ours. Just a calm, sensible, statement pointing out all the pros and addressing, if possible, the objections.

That's only the case if youre altering the FIT accreditted system. If youre adding a second system, as the OP is, it doesnt alter the accreditation of the FIT system so no interaction with your FIT payer is needed. Different matter with the DNO who has to preapprove anything more than 16amp potential export, with potential being the important bit. Whilst you can say your battery pack is set to zero export, your DNO will likely need proof. In our case SPEN told me it would be £350 to come out and witness the export limitation was actually compliant with G100. That's on top of the G99 fee. No need for an MCS install to connect to the grid, just a part P spark

The main feed will be to the wiring centre. so FCU there. From there you will need a minimum of permanent L and N and switched L (call for heat) to the boiler. So use a 3 core and earth for that, and locally a 3 pole fan isolator switch would do the job of local boiler isolation.

Right, what is enforceable is the Requirements of Part C - Site Preparation and Resistance to Contaminants and Moisture. In particular C2 Resistance to Moisture. C2 states: The walls floors and roof of the building shall adequately protect the building and people who use the building from harmful effects caused by; a) ground moisture, b) precipitation including wind driven spray, c) interstitial and surface condensation; and d) spillage of water from or associated with sanitary fittings or fixed appliances. OK so it is only paragraph b) that is an issue here. Section 6 of the Approved Document applies to roofs. It gives three concerns : precipitation from the outside, interstitial condensation, risk of condensation on the underside of the roof covering. Here we are considering slates so interstitial condesation is not an issue and if the roof is a traditional cold one with adequate ventilation then there is little risk of condensation on the underside. What is left is keeping the rain and snow out. Paragraph 6.3 states: Roofing can be designed can be designed to protect a building from precipitation either by holding the precipitation at the face of the roof or by stopping it from penetrating beyond the back of the roofing system. Paragraph 6.4 states: Any roof will meet the requirement if: (b) it has overlapping dry joints, is impervious or weather resisting, and is backed by a material which will direct precipitation which enters the roof towards the outer face (as with roofing felt). Finally Paragraph 6.6 states: Roofing systems may be: (b) weather resisting including natural stone, or slate, cement based products, fired clay or wood. Sorry it's long winded but that is what the LABC should consider. So they cannot insist on BS 5534 being used but they are using it as a reference to base their judgement on whether you satisfy the above. However, the Approved Document right at the start states: "Approved Documents are intended to provide guidance on some of the more common building situations. However, there may well be alternative ways of achieving compliance with the requirements. Thus there is no obligation to adopt any particular solution contained within an Approved Document if you prefer to meet the relevant requirement in some other way." (Bold in document). Consequently you can refer to other guidance particularly specialist historic building documentation to support your arguement. Certainly a SPAB document is appropriate in the circumstances and they ought to listen to reason. I would also pay particular attention to the underlay or consider a product such as Isoline by Onduline which is used for slates/tiles below the recommended pitch. It's a polite but firm approach challenging their position, explaining the age and appearance of the building and how you have reached out for further advice. It's all about appearing to concede whilst not!

I'm a Civil Engineer, but mostly as contractor. I loved working with Architects and other Engineers to optimise a project. To look good, to be brilliant value, but mostly to keep the weather out. I told them where the money could be saved, without cutting corners, they called me a philistine, then we worked something out. Please don't criticise any profession so wildly, as there are better and worse in all walks of life. But you must choose according to their skills. Some Architects are very practical, while some are 3d artists. You didn't choose Hadid or Gehry if budget was an issue in the slightest. You didnt choose me if you wanted a temple to yourself / city/ business. My view is generally that my job was to keep people and their goods, safe and dry for the next 50 to 100 years. Add a bit for looks. Budget? Working to a budget is not necessarily the same as getting best value....that is where specialist contractors come in.

Snap, lol. 😄

one's pretty for your living room, one goes in the garage?