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Ha! this noise must have been air, ran it for a bit, let it rest then bled it again and it’s gone quiet ?

Yes I doubt anyone would notice but you could always add a bit more insulation I suppose ?.

Generally easier to find the centre of the wall mark a vertical and horizontal line with a spirit level, then take measurements to outer edges and pipe centres. transpose these dimensions onto the wet wall, by doing the same starting from the centre mark

What openings are you talking about? All ours had to be cut to fit the sloping ceiling line of a room in roof bathroom, then the cut outs for shower controls and shower heads etc. I found it best to template it first for each panel with large sheets of cardboard. Get it right with the cardboard then mark out the actual panels.

CT1 on the deck is plenty, as long as a proper and robust metal wall profile has been used. Do NOT ever dream of doing away with the wall profile ?. 8mm at that length of screen would benefit from a top stay bar, 10mm probably good without it. That’s said…..( here comes the caveat )……. if it’s a regular domestic setting. You have to include the much higher likelihood of someone using this and taking a tumble, plus that likelihood increasing over time / use, so you should factor that in now for maximum safety. That assumed, I would say to fit a top stay bar now, perpendicular to the glass at the 2/3rds point to be safe.

And another vote for wall panels. I have used expensive 9mm ply panels with a facing, down to cheap 200mm wide plastic, 6mm thick panels. Both gave excellent results. Panels available have defo moved on from that mobile home in the 80's look. Dont get me wrong, i love a good tiling job, but i just hate grout.

Another vote for wall panels, Look for "multipanel" and as a tip, I found Jewson sell them far cheaper than the "bathroom shops"

I've not done a air gap / service cavity build up yet but am planning to. As above there's two particular rooms / wall make ups in my house that I have retrofitted: Bathroom: Original: Render/4" brick/2" cavity/4" brick I added: 2 - 4" pir between battens/vcl/12.5mm plasterboard or Aqua Panel/tiles. Bloody freezing! Due I'm sure to the UFH not being connected, nor the towel radiator. On the North facing wall the pir insulation layer is tapered from 2" one end to at least 4" (maybe 6" thinking some more) the other end of a 3m wall. Behind the illuminated pocket is only 1" of pir. It tapers as I squared the room off by studding it out. I've only got 100mm pir in the ceiling (at the moment) below a cold loft and loads of ceiling penetrations to make good. High hopes though when it's all done. Also got 150mm pir + 25mm EPS under the floor. This room though will be very near airtight when done. Study: Original: Render/4" block I added: 60mm cavity with 50mm Rockwool batts/4" block/50mm battens with 50mm Rockwool batts in between/12.5mm plasterboard. Warmest room in the house. 4" roll insulation under the floor between joists. 11" fluffy roll above the ceiling. 1 small double rad. Though there's no vcl anywhere in the study but my attention to detail at joints and junctions is pretty good so can only help.

The only reason I ask is because a previous client was informed that they weren't allowed 2 front doors due to planning.... Marvin

There is NO vat on import duties. They are separate taxes.

I am a convert from tiles to wall panels, no grout to go mouldy and easier to clean.

If I were you I'd be wondering whether or not to tile at all and use wall panels instead!

I've done exactly that myself before, however, knowing what I know now... You get cold bridging through the battens. You've also got to dig into the 50mm pir to run cables in channels, or conduit etc. Easy to put extra sockets in with the service cavity (you can save cable too by going horizontal between sockets). Plenty of benefit for losing that extra inch.

No the glass will be unsafe - I wouldn’t trust the sheet glass to that especially with someone who may lean against it. Trick is to carefully drill the holes for the screen in the grout crosses between tiles and then you can grout it over if you remove it ans you’ll barely notice.

welcome welcome. Perhaps consider altering that mantra to the less electricity and heating i can consume the better. much better to not to need it rather than have to produce it.

That makes the roof important. Also makes the design simpler.

Yup, she works on very luxury budgets and projects manages them too, so she prefers not to have clients who worry about money. As Saveasteading has said, you need to clarify things properly, there are always hidden/not hidden extras. You might need many things like ground surveys, Ecology, SuDS etc etc which could be put on as extras by the planning department as conditions. Non of this will be covered by the architect's fees.You will also need building control drawings, or more likely construction drawings and structural engineer's calculations. It's hard to advise you of an exact price, which is part of the risk you are taking. eg I know someone who spent £20k on fees and didn't actually get planning permission... I have spent more than £25k on fees (£6k in total on bats!) for a tiny 80m2 stable conversion. The build itself can be hugely variable, especially the ground conditions. Also the price of materials has been affected by Covid in the last couple of years which has stuffed many budgets. It does stand to reason tho' that if you are expecting a luxury, up market result, you will need to invest in the right people and it's unlikely to be cheap. You don't want an architect whose main experience is doing extensions, they are not all created equal (and some are excellent, but not architects, in the sense of the protected title). And it's true, once you are committed and the price goes up, you do just have to pay. I'm sad that most of my money has gone and after all the pain, I might end up with B & Q fittings ? Keep asking and researching. See other discussions about how we self builders don't always add the same things in when letting on how much everything cost.

I'm...impressed by how robust the Quooker elements are to abuse by previous owners. I'm...less convinced I'd always want tea made from one of these if I don't know the owner though! Bought used for not a lot. 4 years old. Shouldn't think it's ever been serviced. The mind boggles at the how some folks think things should be maintained. (the woman just replaced the entire tank and tap thing at full retail plus fitting) It's been given the Cambridge treatment (no prisoners taken with descaling around these parts - 80-20 warm water and brick cleaner every other month if you're a kettle) and will be happy one it's got an outlet filter again. For what it's worth the service items are surprisingly reasonable for the Quooker units given what the original items retail at: £30 for a tap valve https://www.quooker.co.uk/tap-valve-31-103-00.html £25 for the filter https://www.quooker.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/180/s/hitacr-filter-31-004-00/category/46/ Or £95 for a complete set of internals: https://www.quooker.co.uk/pro3-vaq-internals-31-196-00.html ~12 mins to recharge 3 litres at 1600W ~15 mins to recharge 7 litres at 2900W Unsure which to bring with me back to Lithuania as yet.

1800mm bath here. 800mm wide. I'm sure it'll be very nice if ever I have enough hot water to fill it.

Not measured it properly, but it feels cramped, and as you know, I am only 6 foot 2 inches tall. May combine it with some rainwater harvesting. I am sure seagulls shit only smells slightly of herring.