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With some WC pans there is space for a block of wood/WBP under the pan. We glued this to the floor and screwed the pan down into that to avoid any risk to the UFH.

I can't find any CoP/SCoP figures on the technical data. That would worry me. Dropping a temperature by 10°C means very little in itself. You have to know at what temperature it is dropping from, and the volume of air that is cooled (technically the mass flow rate of the air).

I think it has quite a low cooling capacity. I had looked at it but I had 3kW cooling load and it was too small. It seems pretty good on paper - there's no reason it wouldn't perform OK- so long as you have a low cooling load. It's not Air-conditioning though - I can't see it reducing room temperature by 10°c - more like 2 or 3 °c reduction.

Holes drilled and ready for resin. Quite impressed with my cheapo Hammer drill, bought when other drills had died drilling through the garage slab. Was a time you'd be looked down on for having a Titan, don't you have one @pocster?

This bead around the wc in a rental was done in BT1:

Don't know how clear this is but this is my sink pedestal. I had to use like a 10/12mm Fugi tool. The pedestal casting was so badly made there was a 1/4" gap one side. Done in Forever White from memory:

Exactly that. Clean everything. I assume the pan is having to stay in place? Lever it up a bit and sit on some say 10mm if possible, packs, mind fingers! Clean under the pan edge as best with Multisolve and the tiles. Gun in the CT1. Remove packs and let the pan sit down into the CT1. Don't move it anymore. Baby wipe off the excess from pan and tiles, use a bit of Multisolve to help. Walk away, don't touch, don't FFS sit! A day and half later come back. Clean again with Multisolve and run a nice white bead of your chosen cosmetic silicone around where the pan meets the floor and tool off with the appropriate Fugi tool. Have your open bin bag and bits of big roll at the ready.

As someone once said, the difference between a professional snooker player and an amateur is that the professional chalks the tip of his cue before he misses.

Honestly it's amazing. What I found was to have a black sack folded back on itself and open, like half height. Grab a bog roll and have a pile of torn off 2 sheets. As you take off the excess with your Fugi tool, grab a bit of roll, wipe the tool and drop the messy bit straight in the bin. Good luck with 3 way corners, they're a bitch! ? No I'm saying don't use BT1 for a start as it's an all in one and won't be so easy to periodically refresh. Use clear CT1 to seal between pan and floor not around the pan. Let it set, i.e to glue the pan down then seal around the pan with Forever White or the Dow if you prefer as the cosmetic. In this case the CT1 is acting as a bloody good adhesive. With the shower, and it depends on your detail, I'm saying use the CT1 as a waterproof sealer in gaps where you think water is getting. Go over the top with Forever / Dow as the "cosmetic" finish. I learnt a lot from this:

It is my understanding that a Geo-technician would carry out the tests for you - they can provide details of the soil make up, which in turn will / could determine what type of foundations you require. They can also do percolation tests on the soil - [ although, this can be done by the individual ]. As for costs, well it can be dependent upon which area you are in - but to give you an idea I would say around the £1500 mark. There are lots of useful Blogs and threads on this forum. Spend some time trawling through them as well as hammering the internet - I also found reading various magazines useful, especially as I was starting from such a low base knowledge wise.

That all depends how well you build & insulate the house. If you do a good enough job, a fire isn't required for living safely through an extended power cut.

Thanks ! 10mm in for a porch , I often use 100mm lead

@Adsibob What about wheelchair visitors?

We have clay on gravel on chalk - typical of thames valley. When we excavated the basement (3.5m down, 11m square) it was interesting to see the strata - they were far from horizontal and undulated widely with one corner being almost all clay and the other exposing chalk. Some kind of ground investigation is helpful ahead of excavation of footings, even if you're considering a slab style foundation. This often starts as desk investigation, the BGS maintains a free database of local boreholes.

If only we could change the geology of our sites. It is a serious point though and the geology should affect the value of the site. If the ground is fill or otherwise loose then the cost will be high. At the other extreme is solid rock, and that too has a cost due to extensive breaking out. Clay is not too bad but is affected by trees, so is sometimes a deep dig and lots of concrete. The perfect site, which is what you asked, might be dense sand and gravel...digs easily but is strong and free draining. Agreed with nod, For a normal house, the choice of construction will make little difference. Masonry is heavy but that is not the main concern.

First TF Or traditional The foundations will be the same Your SE will determine the depth Governed by ground condition and what’s nearby Trees hedges etc

Leave it there. It could come in bloody handy if someone needs to self isolate. Ask me how I know! ?

Perfect for a composting toilet with easy access to the "receptacle bin" for easy emptying.

Well, you know how on bridges the army are told to 'break step' to avoid a pulse building. Could you simply give an instruction to guests to vary rhythms. Could be called the rhythm method.

No expert of course . But , if I can do better then it must be real shit . As others have said stop all work getting BC to look . You sure I didn’t do it ? - can’t remember….

Where do they tether their horses while working?