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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/13/20 in all areas

  1. Well this was a long cup of coffee... It's common to try and exclude consequential loss but my understanding is it may only be enforceable with business customers unless the contract was specifically negotiated with you rather then being standard T&Cs. I believe you, being a "consumer customer", also have statutory rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 in that excluding consequential loss probably amounts to an unfair contract. https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/somethings-gone-wrong-with-a-purchase/claim-compensation-if-an-item-or-product-causes-damage/ https://www.consumercouncil.org.uk/sites/default/files/2019-09/A_Guide_To_Consumer_Law_for_Businesses.PDF https://www.squirepattonboggs.com/~/media/files/insights/publications/2015/10/the-consumer-rights-act-how-does-it-impact-on-brand-owners/cra-article-for-consumer-brands-alert.pdf https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/450440/Unfair_Terms_Main_Guidance.pdf Reading on it appears they believe the exclusions of unforeseeable consequences would be ok but the exclusion of foreseeable ones would be unfair. If that gets raised I'd argue that the consequences of a leak were reasonably foreseeable by both parties! So looks like a pretty certain that a consequential loss exclusion is unfair when the buyer is a consumer. I'd get quotes for the repairs and send them a letter asking them to pay up before you do any work. Point out that clauses in contracts with consumers which use terms like "consequential loss" are considered unfair. I believe you have to give them the opportunity to fix it before you can get it done yourself by a third party and claim compensation. Give them a two week deadline to respond? You could probably also claim for your time locating the source of the leak but I think I would just point out that that by taking action to promptly identify the source of the leak, and removing sodden insulation yourself, you have minimised the possible damage and the cost to the rooflight company. I've also been reading something about the Alternative Dispute Resolution (ADR) Directive which provides an alternative to court action. I think TrustMark is an ADR provider. Perhaps find out if the rooflight co is a member and involve them?
    3 points
  2. I planted up some Mixed Spicy Salad Leaves seeds on Monday evening. The packet said 7-21 days to seedlings, but this was half an hour ago. You could blow me down with a bicycle pump. Ferdinand
    1 point
  3. I ended up doing as you mentioned
    1 point
  4. Well no _____ the cost of the project was over one million I was the main contractor. When your using helicopters to bring all your materials in one million + is a tight budget.
    1 point
  5. Didn't know you were a gardener. Fair play.
    1 point
  6. @pocster are you spying on me and copying my every move? Almost every time you post something I'm in the course of doing the same thing, or just messed it up and am starting again.....
    1 point
  7. Bit late now. But couldn't you have fitting it so that the hole is filled with CT1 then refitted the (PIR?) item over the hole. It looks like the aforementioned item has a cutout underneath to allow the cables to pass behind it.
    1 point
  8. What size SWA? How many cores? The nearest you'll get to maintenance free is take the swa and t&e into an adaptable box and use Wagos. The earth flylead from the Piranha nut maintains earth continuity to the actual armour of the swa. The screws there though mean it's not mf even though the L&N would be deemed so.
    1 point
  9. Mix it 6/1 with cement and just enough water to get it damp so it will set.
    1 point
  10. I went a tad higher here in keeping with some other people on here who came back in my thread. We're all pretty tall in this house anyway:
    1 point
  11. My electrician ensured that all conduit ran at a down angle from inside out and then filled with silicone before placing the fitting over it co it could not be seen. Where this was not possible, he fitted an IP65 box over the conduit and ran cables from that to the fitting.
    1 point
  12. This worked out really well! Found someone who's selling direct and got a massive discount on delivery... thanks!
    1 point
  13. Yes that is how you normally do it... assuming you use a Wago or similar connector. Alternative is that you put an adaptable box on the outside and terminate in that - can be sometimes easier.
    1 point
  14. Page 20 of my mega thread. The man he say 425mm from FFL to top of seat as in bit your bum is in contact with.
    1 point
  15. Basically, the cheapest option is to drop the ground level to below that of the finished level of the slab all the way around. Basically your slab is a bowl in a bath of water and the lip of the bowl is under the surface of the water - simple as.
    1 point
  16. You really need to lower the level of the ground at the back, simply that is the only real "long term" solution. A french drain will work but that requires dropping the level of the ground and back filling with washed gravel, which will still sit against the garage, so it's a sort of half solution really. If you don't want to drop the level then excavate down the back of the slab, pour a foundation with a seperation gap from the garage slab and build a small retaining wall, back-fill the high side with washed gravel then make up your ground level to the wall, leave a gap down the back of the garage. This will keep the water back and leave a nice ventilation gap so the timber can breath. Ideally this section would have been built in block/poured concrete and waterproofed.
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. I have run various service things (not gas pipe yet, though - more TV, internet and such) just by putting them into the loose gravel ballast below a path (or eg above a French Drain). Given that the gas pipe will be reinforced, I think that could work. Personally I do not particularly like the idea of having it in a slab. My gas is all plumbed in, however at the old family house we had it outside the kitchen window by the path to the front door, just hidden behind an evergreen bush on a paving slab. This was at the end of a long drive, however.
    1 point
  19. I too have a dual fuel rangemaster with bottled gas, builder laid a yellow plastic gas pipe around the house to the side where we also have the ASHP. The pipe was converted to copper before entering the house to abide with gas regs, gas chap turned up and signed off the pipework for BC. I did not go for 47kg bottles but 19kg and I can’t remember the last time one was changed? (It’s sure to run out now I’ve said that ?)
    1 point
  20. Maybe but I'd say the govt have a higher chance of successfully prosecuting you than you have of successfully prosecuting them
    1 point
  21. Moan time. I have gone through three contractors now who I thought I had lined up to do the concrete pour/powerfloat of my slab. Everytime they seem keen and talk a good talk, then eventually they stop answering their phone, dont even have the courtesy to let me know they dont want the job anymore. One even sent me a text saying yeah he's still on to do the job, then didn't answer my call or respond to a text when I rang to sort out a few details - why the hell take the time to type that text out if you dont want the job. So now I'm two weeks out from needing to get the job done and no contractor, again. If I thought I could do the job myself I would, unfortunately this is one of those areas where they need to have done it before I reckon. Back to the drawing board?
    0 points
  22. I start at both ends at once then have a fight in the middle.
    0 points
  23. 1st, 2nd & 3rd place: Longest Bathroom Build 202* *tba
    0 points
  24. @pocster i hope that door system isn't a stand alone unit, and the security isn't as flimsy as below!
    0 points
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