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Oh interesting. How do you compare using the wood to metal? Which do you prefer using?

He means the water being pumped round the ufh is set to 35c and the actual room stat is set to 20.5c.

They look very smart when done in a sympathetic manner. I always try to do them the size of one full tile missing from the wall. No more fruit punch for you tonight

I don't have deep pockets like some!

@pocster, allow me to assist you in spending your money: https://www.tileexperience.co.uk/schluter-kerdi-board-niches? https://www.wedi.de/en/products/building-systems/shelving-and-cladding/sanwell-niches/ Thermopanel another make. Of course you could eschew the ready made versions and make your own like all the best people do...

Slacker! Why's it going to take so long?

One can always fit a bath that fills the for corner,and avoid all the fuss . Note to @Onoff My bathroom will be taking 12 working days to finish, including a totally new floor and ufh.

On second thoughts, would it be worth angling the drip bead to encourage the drips to occur away from the face of your cladding?

Presumably one blows it out with an air hose once every 5 years. At which point you notice how greyer your downstairs hair is than it was 5 years ago, and Mrs Pocster has a good giggle.

No need. He's got some windows to store in the gap.

I've a load of those you're welcome to if you want. Was going to send to zoot for his kitchen but he did something else. (Plus I was worried about putting a return address on).

https://images.app.goo.gl/teiKp4yo7hV8QqdC9

I would defo say, inhibiter, inhibiter, inhibiter. I fitted a boiler about 15 years ago (with the exception of the gas connection) because i was doing the whole house up, one room at a time, i knew i would have to keep draining the system. I thought, being a tight git, that every time i drained to do another room, i was going to loose all my inhibiter, so thought i would wait untill i did the last room to add it. 12 months later boiler packed up. Heat exchanger totally blocked due to not having any inhibiter in it for the last year. DOH.

Our old system was dead easy to top up the inhibitor, via the mag filter. I used to just fill the filter chamber up with neat inhibitor after cleaning it. Not sure what the concentration was, but as it was a closed and pressurised system I reckoned a filter full should have been enough to keep it working OK. The mag filter was dead easy to clean, too, just close the two isolating valves, stick a bowl underneath to catch any spillage and whip it off for a clean.

Mine has one - called the Mag Filter. Can empty it, then it takes 500ml bottles of inhibitor.

They don't usually have holes. Most have a texture/pattern both sides that helps the adhesive bond it to the floor and tiles. Some are waterproof and can provide a form of tanking. BAL have a tech guide... https://www.bal-adhesives.com/a-technical-guide-to-uncoupling-systems/ There are also several vids on youtube. Search "Decoupling mat" or "uncoupling mat".

I obviously did a secret under the table deal with admin to provide content for the site . They requested threads on my attempts at bathrooms , kitchens etc. - even just screwing 2 bits of wood together relatively straight . As @PeterW said in his private message to me ” What’s Netflix without content ? ; it’s nothing . Membership to the site has increased because of your and @Onoff‘s benign efforts at workmanship. As you know once we reach our target membership our intentions are to sell the site whilst paying you our agreed percentage for your efforts . It would be of great benefit if you could f’up some more glazing , leaky toilets or just do something really stupid like extend your underground utopia . Yours Faithfully The Management “

That duct is smooth inside, looks like the same stuff we used. It has a smooth white internal liner with a corrugated external surface. It's a popular choice because it's relatively easy to install. Here's a photo of the stuff (what look like internal ridges are a trick of the light): https://cvcdirect.myshopify.com/collections/75mm-radial-duct/products/semi-rigid-ducting-75o-d-blue

We have a mix of two different styles of terminal. Doesn't affect the way the system works in any way. I used directional terminals where I needed to fit them to a wall, so the louvres could be pointed to direct air upwards towards the vaulted ceiling. The ones I used for wall mounting were these: https://cvcdirect.myshopify.com/collections/ceiling-valves/products/turn-airvalve-125mm

1. A magnetic filter / cleaner is a requirement on most if not all new boilers 2. Pointless - use the drain on the mag filter (see 1) 3. You do anyway. 4. Pumps are fitted with valves. Adding 3 full bore valves around a diverter would be different ... 5. It’s there already - use a drain point valve on the utility radiator/ lowest rad. System already should have a filling loop to refill. 6. Nothing. Nada. Nowt. It’s illegal, don’t go there.

Mr Twat here: I oh so carefully marked 75mm graduations up my steel post and made a jig. The footings 4 courses came out a treat with a lovely 10mm mortar gap between each. Then not thinking, tired, rushing, whatever I went wrong putting muck on a welded support angle when there should have been none. Threw everything out and I missed the chance to correct it. Abandoned the jig thereafter and did the rest by eye. Trouble is I'm starting the other pillar tomorrow. If I do it "better" will it stand out? ?

I can check later it was some time ago !

Schlüter stuff seems recommended with a nice price tag of course . So ! walk in shower form tray water proof kit ( presumably de coupling tile sheet goes ontop this ) Aquapanel or similar board for the walls ( should I use this on the ceiling also ) ?? Sounds easy (ish) enough - not sure why @Onoffmade such a meal of it ?

Right that’s pretty much it . Some extra noggins to support plasterboard at edges required later . Space infront of the vertical white pipes to allow for tv screen at end of bath . Space above where geberit cistern is going should allow for some recessed storage .

Should have just made up profile sticks. Set a datum point and then just use that stick to make sure you got every layer of bricks right. That's what I did when I built my garage years ago

Lol ! When I first started with metal I hated it - screwing it together and cutting it a right pain . Then I got into it ! . Loved every piece is dead straight - get a magnetic level and you are laughing . Back on timber now - prefer it . TBH as I will end up swapping between them it would be hard to choose one over the over . Do both ?

Ahhhhhhh I have ! All below ground is metal stud ( though I’ve only done a tiny portion) . Ground level just went with timber because it’s a timber frame ( yeah I know ! No logic there ) Underground metal stud photo ...

Ditto and I tested mind with a water level over 20m, it was spot on.

It is indeed -

In my experience when the salt want to come out it will find a way A better alternative might be to spray with a salt inhibitor

Notes of an update, which perhaps would benefit from an article of its own. Before: After: 1 - Grabrails The older person for whom the room was adapted has spent a couple of weeks mainly in a wheelchair, following a slip off the settee (note to self: investigate a custom cushion with non slip fabric for the settee). This slip was caused by weakness following sickness for a small number of days, which caused some weightloss - only 2-3kg , but significant for someone weighing around 43-45kg. Recovering more normal energy intake will help that over several weeks. A couple of months in we have made adjustments to some elements that had been left in until we had decided what to do. We have fitted trombone-Hitler grabrails as per the photo below. I have no idea what the real name is of the piece of kit. On these grabrails we have fitted 2 types bought from Screwfix, Croydex have not been very impressive in this situation, Nymex have been. Croydex have more play at the hinges, whilst Nymex have rubber bushes at the hinge to hold the rail steadier. The extra row of holes is where we got it slightly wrong with the stainless steel grab rail. ( * The action is like a fascist salute, and it looks like a trombone; it seems highly appropriate to remember an evil Dictator in the name of a piece of kit to benefit people he wanted to kill, in the spirit of The Producers.) 2 - Radiator Width We have also narrowed the radiator, as the previous one is exactly the same width as the wheelchair usually used in the shower room, which has the effect of preventing the wheelchair backing against the wall by about 50mm. That may seem like a detail, however gaining an extra inch makes the transfer if the user wishes to do it sideways (rather than face on) feel more comfortable. That is an example of how tiny details can make a difference. 3 - Squeezable Wheelchair Another detail is that the wheelchair used for this bathroom is a folding wheelchair, and the width can therefore "squeeze in" by about 2cm, which makes it just fit between the loo and the shower, and also slightly wedge itself in, which also helps. I admit that that was not planned. 4 - Turning Space Remarkably there is also room to turn the wheelchair in the alcove by the shower, though this is miles from meeting regs for a turning spot. None of these details would work for a larger or taller man, but in these circumstances they do - a strategy of "marginal gains". 5 - Wheelchair Accessible Shower I also have a plan for making the shower wheelchair accessible should that prove necessary, which simply involves removing the end screen (about 4 screws at the wall end, the block at the top, and a Stanley knife cut along the silicone bead at the bottom), plus raising the floor by 125mm with a tightly fitting but non screwed stud frame, and a ramp from the door, which would then be topped with ply and tiled or covered with vinyl. This can then be removed to do a full restoration later. 6 - Individual Adaptations It is worth noting that some of the above is only possible for the particular small individual. If mum were a rugby player we would be whistling in the wind, and would have had to go with a full wetroom.

Think I would turn turn the rolls around, hammer them in well, CT1 bead over the lot eg fill groove including over lead rolls.

Think about what features you want. At the very least I would want stats that can handle the clocks going forwards and back automatically but perhaps you also want to be able to change settings while on holiday using your mobile phone? You also need to know if your wiring centre needs 12V or 230V stats? I think most are 12V but not all? Our UFH stats can be set to four different temperatures per day which we typically have set to.. Waking up 21c Daytime 18c Evening 21c Night 16c The time at which it changes temperature can be altered as well as the temperature. You can also have a different set of times and temperature s at the weekend (eg if you get up early or want it warmer in the daytime). Do you have separate zones/loops for the bathroom? If so companies like Heatmiser do a stat with a remote sensor. Sensor goes in the bathroom, display panel goes outside bathroom door (to avoid damage by high humidity).

We used flexible adhesive and grout and it wasn't enough in our case. I suggested a decoupling mat but I would seek advice from somewhere like BAL Adhesives to be on the safe side.

Try phoning tilemaster and asking for the technical dept or speak to a company called Resapol. Used both and they are very helpful, sell quality stuff and know their products. Lots of the trade lads we use at work recommend them. Resapol supplied me with a floor leveller to smooth a hollow in a fork lift truck route, still sound after two years of traffic. It was a Weber product but can’t remember which.

I was taught to put the rolls of lead in the groove the other way round, horizontal as such. Then beat them in with the side of a raking chisel so they expand. Could be wrong but it's how I was taught. Other lead things would be 6" of lap and max of 1.5m sections but it looks like you have that bit under control Also you can get "lead mastic". dunno if it more flexible or why it would be better than others but they do make one and it's probably cheaper than Ct1

Ours beeps sometimes when you're wiping it down, due to the "something being on the sensor field" issue. It's a minor nuisance, but I'd guess that any touch sensitive hob is probably going to be similar. It doesn't deactivate when in use, though, and it also doesn't seem to get that hot at the surface when in use.

Celtic Fertility Images. Lol. My iPad defines a Sheela-na-Gig 'Allo 'Allo style as "wonking woman". We already discussed this at adequate length wrt to @Onoff's gatepost. In 2017, so a rapid prototyping development methodology. Twas @jamiehamy who was discussing them with an unknown woman on a train in South Yorkshire, apparently. F

Nah get nice caps

Your content is worth exactly what you can sell it for... Interested how that compares to the walk-on windows.