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How's the tiling going ...

He generoulsy left me a half eaten box as a Christmas gift

I can’t claim credit for the tidy pipework. That’s all down to @Nickfromwales who is trying hard to acheive my levels of OCD. I've spent the entire afternoon lagging the pipework, crikey what a thankless task. Not quite finished but will be sure to post a photo when I do. It did seem a bit of a shame to cover up all that lovely copper and brass

Half a box of mince pies probably ?

He will likely blame Will for that

He does but loses one point as that back right compression tee isn’t lined up with the one in front of it like the rest .... compression nuts look about 3mm out of line ....

Yes they could be reported to trading standards or worse! They urgently need to get some leadership in that company to prevent issues with administration, literature, marketing etc. The science may be good but the command and control seem lacking!

I believe that there was a bit of an issue with definition of the type of product that the Sunamp should be classified as when it comes to energy testing, as the Sunamp PV had a poor rating, that didn't tally with reality at all: This rating bore no relationship to the heat losses at all, and was spurious, as it resulted from the test method used being unable to deal with the type of product. IIRC it was treated as an electric water heater, rather than as a heat storage device. The Sunamp PV heat loss was around 0.6 kWh/24 hours, which equates to about 219 kWh/year, so nothing like the figure on that label of 1,423 kWh/year. Similarly, the UniQ eHW 9 has a heat loss of 0.738 kWh/24 hours, so would lose around 269 kWh/year, nothing like the figure on the label. Arguably, these units should be treated as thermal stores, and assessed in terms of their heat loss rate, much like any hot water cylinder would be.

When I open my eyes in the morning ... the box is there because some bozo has a floodlight set to come on at dusk and stay on all night.

Intaklean body rotates 360 degrees so you can put it in a horizontal pipe but the unit has to be vertical and you have to be able to drain off from the bottom of it.

I’d be buying a couple of electric throws and using them I think. I’ve got one here and it was a lifesaver when my boiler broke down last year. Fan heaters aren’t great in this room either as it’s too large for a silly heater really. I think (don’t quote me!) you have 12 months from the commissioning date to apply for the RHI which is the date on the microgeneration certificate. That should be the date that your installer tests and signs off the system but that implies that it’s working so maybe you don’t have yours signed off yet? You also need the EPC too. What a surprise re the goalposts moving! ?

That’s done now though so what are you waiting for ..???

Here's the link from the Sunamp domain https://www.sunamp.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/UniQ-manual-20180719-V2.2.pdf

Trip to the dump today with most of the cardboard, the remainder I will keep to wrap the fronts as protection. DH rigged up with the extract down the waste pipe and a humidity meter on order.

Is this an additional argument for the external Willis-style heater as that'd make it an A* rated heat store instead of a C rated heater? Just shows how bloody silly these ratings are.

Yup on full chat it will be fine HOWEVER.... If you’re referring to the one that you’ve got next to the thermal store then it feeds both rads and UFH manifold and the manifold will be a higher resistance. You may need to up the flow rate on the manifold to make it draw off that tee as currently if both the rads and manifold want heat, the lowest restriction will be the first rad on the circuit.

OK @Barney12 wins the Top Trump Sunamp tidiest install (I assume pipe insulation omitted for clarity) (sorry @JSHarris, runner up) and not a bulge in sight. Best slam dunk since the cat flap.

Well I ended up with a pallet of 25 of the Bimble solar PV panels. They had listed one on ebay and I won it for a little less than the price they are listed on their website that with transport works out at £50.8 per 250W panel, or 20.32p per watt. I was pleasantly surprised unpacking them. Most of them seem fine with no problems with the backing. One has a split in the backing about 1cm long, and 2 of the panels have the backing peeling at the top edge in one small area like this I think my "fix" will be to cover the affected areas with a bit of sticks like sh*t smoothed down with a finger.

It would likely roll off before getting hot as the lid and container starts bulging ?

I imagine with a C rating he thought he would give it a punt ?

@Nickfromwales forgot his mince pie! Unlike him I would imagine.

Here’s my two side by side after @Nickfromwales and his faithful assistant Will finished their handiwork.

The OP was actually @readiescards not me BUT I can confirm that the two uniQ eHW 12’s which have just been commissioned also have the same C rating label.

I've just tracked down the reference to the Sunamp UniQ range energy rating in the manual that was supplied with our unit: This clearly states that the ErP Rating class, as a hot water storage vessel, is A+, not C as shown on the label on the new unit that @Barney12 has received. The manual is accessible online, as well as being supplied with the unit, although I can't seem to find it on the Sunamp website, only on the website of one of their distributors: http://www.bublshop.co.uk/sunamp-uniq-e-heat-store-heating-only-model/p2039 Given that it seems that a hot water storage vessel cannot actually achieve an A+ rating, but can only ever get an ErP rating of C, it looks as if something is seriously awry here. Not sure it has any practical consequences, given the much lower heat losses that the whole Sunamp range have , when compared to hot water storage, but nevertheless the product literature should be accurate and not mislead potential customers into thinking they are buying something with a significantly better ErP rating than the unit actually has. Edited to add: This is the claim directly from the front page of their website, as linked to by @newhome above:

The 44dB rating applies to the old Sunamp PV, which did have a variable speed Grundfos pump internally. I've no idea where the 42dB figure for the UniQ comes from, as it has no moving parts at all. I can only assume that it's another artefact of the test process, and may relate to the very slight crackling noise that a newly commissioned UniQ eHW makes on first being powered up from cold. In reality it never does this again after being commissioned, or at least I know for sure that ours hasn't, because even when we ran out of hot water a couple of weeks ago the unit was still warm enough to not go into cold start mode.

This maybe? Grabbed this off the web. Unfortunately, when it comes to direct cylinders, the parameters and guidelines set out by the EU mean that even a perfect electric cylinder, which never lost any heat, could only ever achieve a maximum of a C-Rating. This is because the EU has stated that electric heating must reflect the inefficiencies of fossil fuelled power generation and therefore applies a multiplier of 2.5 to the electrical usage in the efficiency calculation. That said they can’t advertise A+ and send something out that says C!

Is this unit electric only? If this is the case I believe the best achievable energy rating is a C as the inefficiency of burning fossil fuel must be accounted for (blame it on a quirk in the EU legislation).

Weird. They all say A+ on Sunamp’s website ... https://www.sunamp.com/ scroll down a bit to see. Send them a Tweet and ask since there is no one from Sunamp on here yet. @readiescards maybe you are special ?

http://kb.jungleproperty.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Grasslin-Towerchron-QE1-QE2-Installation-and-User-Instructions.pdf Page 4. There's a switch on the back for gravity vs fully pumped. For gravity it'll assume the DHW is heated whenever the CH is on. Had to change the (different) controller here when it was changed from gravity to pumped this year.

Been wired correctly as that is the setting for a gravity system which yours was. Not sure you can change those controllers to fully pumped so if you redo it all at some point then I would change the controllers. You can get 3 and 4 zone ones now for very little money.

yes.

Some typical DIN rail terminals: A typical one: A blue one: A stop end goes on the rail to stop stuff sliding along it: And an earth one. As described above, see how the terminals are connected to the rail:

Unless you are going several hundred metres and below roads and building 3 or more properties etc, it is pretty much guaranteed that you will use 110mm underground pipe. It’s the defacto standard for drainage.

So my new PCM58 has arrived (see for why I have a new one): And the new one has an energy efficiency sticker on it: Show only grade C - which is well below my expectation. Anyone know why it is given such a poor mark, I thought one of the key selling points was it was a super highly insulated way of storing heat.

We’ve ended up with no heat this weekend! Installer is coming on Monday but that’s little help now when it’s bloody freezing here, I can assure you he won’t be leaving till it’s working properly!