AnonymousBosch

Flooring, quick check, please ...

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Would you be kind enough to run your eye over this, please? 

The list below is gleaned from a mixture of YT videos, the LABC and NHBC standards and several flooring threads on BH : thanks to @ProDave, @Big Neil, @Simplysimon, @Hecateh, @PeterW, @Mr Punter, @Declan52  , @bassanclan @Oz07 and others.

 

I have 46 sq meters of floor to lay on the first floor on joists which are laid at 400 centres: you know, the ones that de-bagged me

Since the floor is a structural member, and the roof is on - we are dry, the sensible choice seems to be

  • 22ml chipboard T+G,  (although 18mm will do for 400 centers)
  • laid at right angles to the joists,
  • long edges at room perimeters  must be fully supported on either a joist or a nogging
  • in any case, noggins must support the short edge
  • laid ' brick-bond ' (to ensure minimal waste and maximum T+G contact)
  • D4 adhesive : gloves to prevent contact with the glue (thanks,  @Declan52
  • screwed every 300mm, screws 50mm long (at least double the depth of the board) and at least size 8s
  • with a 10ml gap all the way round vertical abutment(s)
  • leave a small loose panel in each room so I can fish wires through later (thanks @ProDave)

 

I'm using sheets that are 2400mm by 600mm and my BM is charging me £8.88 / sheet.

Missed anything? 

As every, many thanks in anticipation.

 

Ian

(PS, forgot to ask about screws spec: are there any screws that are specially for boarding out?)

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Thats how I did our first floor. Caberdek P5 22mm. I put the floor down before the roof. All ok.

 

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You forgot gloves.  And isopropyl for when you forget your gloves and d4 glue gets entwined in your dna. 

If the short join is in between joists that's fine,  doesn't have to land on a joist.  It will be glued so the board on the run before and after that join will it hold up.  

 

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Ideally those spax twin threaded ones mentioned in a previous thread but realistically any will do. I only used those special ones because I got given them free 

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Use P5 chipboard  (the green "waterproof" stuff).  It happens to be what our BM supplies even when you don't specify it.

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Or if you can get it cheap enough, Egger Protect is very good. It is coated both sides, easy to clean and you can tile onto it.

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1 minute ago, ProDave said:

Use P5 chipboard [...]

 

Because? Just because it's waterproof ? 

 

1 minute ago, Construction Channel said:

Ideally those spax twin threaded ones  [...]

 

Reisser T+G groove flooring screws , perhaps

 

1 minute ago, Mr Punter said:

Or if you can get it cheap enough, Egger Protect [...]

 

Thanks. hadn't thought of that.....

 

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8 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said:

 

Because? Just because it's waterproof ? 

 

 

Much less likely to suffer if you have a "plumbing incident"

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Get a price on Egger - it’s so much nicer to work with, you glue all the edges and you can actually mop the dust off it as it’s waterproof. 

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@recoveringacademic if you have a Toolstation near you they are cheaper 

 

Screws

 

And whilst you’re there, 4 bottles of this lovely D4...

 

 Glue

 

Bead into each groove, let it foam and then slice off with a floor scraper. 

 

Oh, and wear trousers you don’t like as they will be trashed by the end of it ..!!

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Our floor laid by our builder was egger board and glued only with d4 (no screws), the board is so waterproof it was laid as the walls got to first floor and the build continued in very wet weather with no protection. After the plastering the protective layer was peeled off and all “crap”came off with it and not damaged at all by the wet during the build.

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go 22mm, glued to joists, short ends shouldn't need supported at that thickness, though they should land on joist centres anyway.

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glues/nails are what squeak. Having said that if you're motoring along they help to keep things in check.

 

I usually pop a nail in each end on first run and pull a string line between nails. Get first row to line up with the line, glue, nail bang away you go

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Before you start gluing, put your bottle of glue in a bucket of hot water if it's under say 10C (also if you use PU expanding foam).

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I was reading about this somewhere on here yesterday (God knows why, we haven't even got a slab designed yet!). IIRC the recommended method was to fix the 1st row of boards with a couple of screws per board plus glue & then glue only. I think there was an egger spec sheet on it. 

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5 hours ago, recoveringacademic said:

Hi @JamesP, any special type of screws? Or just 'normal' ones ....?

 I just used Turbo gold PZ wood screws but someone mentioned the Glue!

Gloves essential otherwise it remains on your hands for weeks...have fun, first floor really makes working  a lot easier.

 

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