recoveringacademic

Thanks: simple innit - when you know. Covering... prolly EPDM

Yes, Russ it is timber : but whats a pre-folded flashing?

Me neither, and I've just had mine put in. Thats the clue..... Get the window designer to give you a cross sectional drawing. Here's a relevant google search Or copy and paste these terms into your preferred search engine window installation cills sectional drawing

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Only 4 months? Yer doing well. We all, well, nearly all, have the same issue. There's too much work about. Debbie's take on the subject is that we aren't repeat customers. One off jobs are sometimes sufficiently quirky that trades people have to think a tiny bit harder. Why bother with those jobs when all you need to do is go down the pub and come away with a few follow-on jobs. That's the West Lancs picture anyway.

I appreciate the response.... looking at the product details, I see the following.... ' ... Fix lead or Wakaflex Rapid Flashing in lengths not exceeding 1.5 metres, laying it into the trays and ensuring that it is firmly engaged into the channel on the leading edge of the tray...' Thanks @the_r_sole : the issue is keeping the flat roof as low as possible The end in mind is to avoid the use of lead if I can. Why? I don't really know. I will be DIYing it, so there's a good reason to keep things simple. I've never handled lead before: don't get me wrong I'm up for the challenge, but there are many others competing for my attention.

Yes. Is there a non-ventilated version of a cold flat roof? If so BINGO!

I have a small flat roof to build. Nearly sorted everything out - one last detail niggles, though. The roof abutment ventilator. There are lots tof choose from. But the ones I have seen require a lead flashing. Is there any way I can avoid fitting a lead flashing?

Enjoy that while you can. Harness it. Store it. Bottle it. You'll need to drink from that bottle later. One sip at a time. In the meantime, welcome.

I've done my best not to bother you all with this question, but..... I'm not far off fitting my wall plate - and thus my joists for the little (steeply sloping) flat roof. Joists and wall plate on site, just waiting for the concrete to dry a bit. And of course, its DIY The nice folks from Cheshire Roof Trusses sent me the necessary ironmongery. Here it is. This sooooo embarrassing ......... Which way up do I use the Simpson Strong Tie? 😰 Should the stamped ridge face outwards (away from the wall plate towards the joist) like this? A simpler way of asking the question might be either : What does the top chord of the joist sit on: the square tabs or the rounded ones? Or conversely, do the rounded tabs sit on the top of the wall plate or the square tabs? I think I know how to use the corner plates. It's hard work this DIY lark........

Hello, welcome! Give us a starter for 10.... Lets say : what tip would you give a crotchety old geezer - dickey knees, bad back, ruined hands who is about to fit his own small flat roof for the very first (and last) time ? He's still got a sense of humour, however. Flat roof: 20 sq meters, EPDM, OSB3, cold.

So, big boy: which one's that then? (For those who might not know)

In Durisol, the concrete forms a lattice, not a solid layer. There might well be a few 'holes' in our concrete - if only because during the pour the slump varied a little. A thicker pour increases the likelihood of an air pocket. Scotch Broth is said to be the ideal slump. Looks disconcerting ....

Durisol is not appropriate for that kind of job....

I think I know what you mean: but in the case of Durisol - provided the contractor acts with due caution - there is no need for shuttering during the pouring process. In the sense that the material containing the concrete (compacted , treated wood chip) is never removed, you are correct. Normally a customer would never see the concrete. Normally that is...😕