Temp Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 1 hour ago, Triassic said: Isn't this the target temperature, not the actual temperature. mind you, the heating is off! On my Heatmiser stats if if it says "RT" or "Room Temperature" that's the current temperature not the target. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 17 hours ago, newhome said: This is a weird one too. Room stat says 20 degrees which is BS. The bolometer (or bollockmeter according to @SteamyTea) says 7.4 degrees. Bloody baltic in there so it’s the room stat talking bollocks! As Triassic says, the stat is OFF or rather it's OFF with Frost Protection mode (snowflake illuminated). The manual says.. In this mode, the thermostat will display the frost icon and will only turn the heating on should the room temperature drop below the set frost temperature (see page 19). So despite it only being 7-8 degrees it might not be cold enough to trigger the frost protection mode and turn on the heating. To turn the stat back on you have to press OFF again and the snowflake will disappear. This still doesn't explain why it thinks the room temperature is 20C unless there is a bug in the frost protection mode software? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 PS: The default temperature at which it calls for heat in frost mode is 12C but it can be set lower. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 (edited) One option might be to try doing do a factory reset on the stat... https://www.heatmiser.com/en/heatmiser-manuals/ See touch screen manual page 26 However I hesitate to suggest this as I think you have the optional central control panel which I'm not familiar with as I don't have one. Doing a factory reset would loose any programs set in the stat and I don't know if you would have to re-enter these into the stat or if the central control panel would magically do that for you. The stat and control panel may have to be configured to work with each other and doing a factory reset might also mess that up. Perhaps best only do a factory reset as a last resort before buying a new stat? Edited March 2, 2018 by Temp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 9 minutes ago, Temp said: So despite it only being 7-8 degrees it might not be cold enough to trigger the frost protection mode and turn on the heating. To turn the stat back on you have to press OFF again and the snowflake will disappear. This still doesn't explain why it thinks the room temperature is 20C unless there is a bug in the frost protection mode software? Thanks. Quite a few of my rooms are set to frost only as I never go in more than half the house so don't bother heating them. This room is the vestibule that I don't go in either unless to open the front door or collect paper off the printer. I took the frost setting off and nothing happened because the room stat is showing as 18 degrees now although it's much colder so it didn't think it needed to start heating. I raised the desired temperature to 22 degrees and the heating clicked on which once it thinks it's got to 22 degrees will make it 4 degrees hotter than it is in there now I guess 1 minute ago, Temp said: However I hesitate to suggest this as I think you have the optional central control panel which I'm not familiar with as I don't have one. Doing a factory reset would loose any programs set in the stat and I don't know if you would have to re-enter these into the stat or if the central control panel would magically do that for you. Yes I have the central control panel and I'm not sure about the factory reset. What I would like to do is ascertain whether the room stat is actually working though because if not I will need to order another. @PeterW should I try the factory reset to see if the room stat is kaput? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 Is the thermostat wireless. If it is, move it next to one that seems to work happily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triassic Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 Does it have a battery, is it run down and need replacing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 39 minutes ago, SteamyTea said: Is the thermostat wireless. If it is, move it next to one that seems to work happily. 27 minutes ago, Triassic said: Does it have a battery, is it run down and need replacing? No clue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 Pull it off the wall, you will soon find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 1 minute ago, SteamyTea said: Pull it off the wall, you will soon find out. You clearly haven't seen me in action when it comes to DIY! I pull it off the wall half the wall comes off with it . I did tug it a bit and nothing happened. I don't even know how they are fixed on TBH. Glued? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 4 hours ago, newhome said: You clearly haven't seen me in action when it comes to DIY! I pull it off the wall half the wall comes off with it . I did tug it a bit and nothing happened. I don't even know how they are fixed on TBH. Glued? please don’t ..... they clip on, there is a small screwdriver slot on the bottom that allows you to lever it off. But there is nothing to disconnect inside other than 3 wires - two are power, one is signal ... mix them up and it’s bye bye controller and possibly the other bits so may be worth leaving alone .... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 31 minutes ago, PeterW said: But there is nothing to disconnect inside other than 3 wires - two are power, one is signal ... mix them up and it’s bye bye controller and possibly the other bits so may be worth leaving alone .... I'm leaving it be! Just need to know if a new one is required for the one that's gone ballistic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 46 minutes ago, newhome said: Thanks. Quite a few of my rooms are set to frost only as I never go in more than half the house so don't bother heating them. This room is the vestibule that I don't go in either unless to open the front door or collect paper off the printer. I took the frost setting off and nothing happened because the room stat is showing as 18 degrees now although it's much colder so it didn't think it needed to start heating. I raised the desired temperature to 22 degrees and the heating clicked on which once it thinks it's got to 22 degrees will make it 4 degrees hotter than it is in there now I guess It sounds like either a fault or a calibration issue. Its possible it got accidentally recalibrated? If you accidentally held down the ON button while trying to set the target temperature you would end up recalibrating it instead. The procedure is on page 25 of the Touch-N manual. https://www.heatmiser.com/en/heatmiser-manuals/#56-touchscreen-thermostat-series-1456694661 To recalibrate it you need another thermometer that you trust to measure the room temperature. The heatmiser is then recalibrated to that value. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Following on from this post How many any of the rooms have the UFH piped that way eg just laying in between the battens over the insulation? Is the entire first floor piped like that ? Are all the ground floor loops in screed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 58 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: How many any of the rooms have the UFH piped that way eg just laying in between the battens over the insulation? Is the entire first floor piped like that ? Are all the ground floor loops in screed? The entire 1st floor. Ground floor is all in anhydrite screed (something else I wish we’d done differently!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 One of the issues you may be getting with the upstairs heating is poor performance as there are no aluminium spreader plates to effectively get the heat from the pipes into the flooring. . Deffo need the independent manifolds with their own flow temp control, so you can run the flow cooler downstairs and much hotter upstairs to compensate. Not ideal, but I think your getting used to hearing that now . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
le-cerveau Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 That layout looks non-optimised (ie not spiral counterflow) and just someone putting the pipes down with little/no thought and if I had to hazard a guess there could well be loops over 100m in length! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 (edited) 21 minutes ago, le-cerveau said: That layout looks non-optimised (ie not spiral counterflow) and just someone putting the pipes down with little/no thought and if I had to hazard a guess there could well be loops over 100m in length! Wundafloor designed the loops / layout. We paid them for the design. Edited March 5, 2018 by newhome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
le-cerveau Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Doesn't surprise me, when my UFH was first designed, I had to tell the company to try again with optimised layouts (only because of this sites predecessor). They just pressed plan on the software and accepted the first output (I suspect), with little/no input from anyone with knowledge experience (and expect to be paid for it). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 Pass the voddy please (to hell with it being too early!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 32 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: One of the issues you may be getting with the upstairs heating is poor performance as there are no aluminium spreader plates to effectively get the heat from the pipes into the flooring. Wunda (pun intended) why they didn’t factor these in as part of the design? They provided all of the UFH kit. As you say, too late now tho! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Very surprised to see that they didn't spec or even insist on alu spreader plates to get the heat out of the loops upstairs. Should hopefully be able to cheat that by running the 1st floor flow temp a good bit hotter than downstairs. 3 minutes ago, newhome said: Pass the voddy please (to hell with it being too early!) Make it a double 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 This is a great thread, buildhub well and truly in action as a collective community. I have spent to much time reading this when I should have been working on my own house getting ready for windows. It has however frightened the life out of me regarding UFH & DHW heating and storage threads. I feel a lengthy post coming on later to get mine designed properly. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, vfrdave said: It has however frightened the life out of me regarding UFH & DHW heating and storage threads. I feel a lengthy post coming on later to get mine designed properly. It scares the life out of me too and unfortunately it’s my system! I’m totally sure mine would be ok if it had been specified and installed by someone who knew what they were doing. A stream of people fiddling with it compounded all the issues when going back to basics seems to be what’s required to sort it. What is it they say? Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance. Great idea to get the design sorted on here. Will help others too. I'm not entirely convinced by the economics of having to run the boiler all the time (I know the output drops back as needed mind) to keep the TS up to temperature. In the summer I only need to switch on a tap, get a bit of hot water and switch off again. Not liking the sound of the boiler being on all the time just for that. Edited March 11, 2018 by newhome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, newhome said: It scares the life out of me too and unfortunately it’s my system! I’m totally sure mine would be ok if it had been specified and installed by someone who knew what they were doing. A stream of people fiddling with it compounded all the issues when going back to basics seems to be what’s required to sort it. What is it they say? Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance. Great idea to get the design sorted on here. Will help others too. I'm not entirely convinced by the economics of having to run the boiler all the time (I know the output drops back as needed mind) to keep the TS up to temperature. In the summer I only need to switch on a tap, get a bit of hot water and switch off again. Not liking the sound of the boiler being on all the time just for that. I think I mentioned about 19 pages ago that we were going to need to talk about your evils of insulation etc, which will affect how much you run it. Has that time arrived? Frost setting in the wings of the house you do not use, and perhaps even draughtbproofing those doors sounds like an option. I am sure that even Bess of Hardwick used to seal up parts of the house in winter. ELizabeth I probably just stayed in the South. F Edited March 11, 2018 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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