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Slating a simple, small roof. Planning 1


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It's all @Construction Channel, @Barney12, @Triassic, @vfrdave ' s faults. I have decided to try and slate the roof of our little piggery. The key factor in my decision is the simplicity of the roof. It's five meters long and dead  straight (now)

Well, got to save money somehow. And as SWMBO says, it keeps me off the streets.

 

I anticipate going into a lot of detail, so this post will be one of a few:  I'll make a little navbar within this and subsequent posts. (There's nothing to link to yet, so the  doesn't work). Why do that? Because it will make it easier for potential roofers to follow the threads.

 

This (will be) one of a series [1]  [2]  [3]  [4]  [5]

 

The background 

We have an old piggery which is not subject to Building Regs that has been knocked down (under Permitted Development) and rebuilt (badly: there's a really big curve in the west wall - one of the reasons we sacked the builder). 

Again at @Construction Channel's encouragement I built the roof like this....

20171101_115801.thumb.jpg.fdb26a829d78c16058263005f69c0259.jpg 

 using recycled wood from the shuttering disaster (another reason we sacked the builder)

By the way, I colour-coded the recycled wood : red paint means there are or were nails in the wood, green means that the recycled wood is metal-free).

Ask me why I do  that now  :$

 

The roof now looks like this: I re-used some OSB left over from the shuttering  and covered it with normal 'shed' felt. 

5a6aec0eeadcf_20171113_154940(1).thumb.jpg.10ff81e7aec480ddaea6348b8cb4294b.jpg

 

I thought I'd do a quick review of what others have posted about slate roofing (all summarised from BH posts where the term 'slate' is in the title: 'slate' in the title and content brings up too many results)

 

 

Then there's this quite important post about doing it yourself started by @Tin Soldier. It certainly put lead in my pencil about the whole issue. It's a must-read.

 

Next: weighing the job up.

 

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Ian - I don't know if this helps and I'm no expert, but our garage roof was finished yesterday. Charming though your old piggery is, you don't want to go over the top so the planning authority end up listing it! What are you intending to use it for? If it's for storage, then I'd go for the simplest solution.

For example, use cement filleted verges (see cropped pic) and a wet ridge - they'll both see you out. You need to trim off those pointy rafter ends so you can get some guttering on there. I might be tempted to leave the OSB if it's reasonable quality, Sorry can't advise on gauging but there's loads of advice online. I expect you'll need a fairly small slate - ours were 500x250.

IMG_6603.JPG

IMG_6603 crop.JPG

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57 minutes ago, RandAbuild said:

Ian - I don't know if this helps and I'm no expert, but our garage roof was finished yesterday. Charming though your old piggery is, you don't want to go over the top so the planning authority end up listing it! What are you intending to use it for? If it's for storage, then I'd go for the simplest solution.

For example, use cement filleted verges (see cropped pic) and a wet ridge - they'll both see you out. You need to trim off those pointy rafter ends so you can get some guttering on there. I might be tempted to leave the OSB if it's reasonable quality, Sorry can't advise on gauging but there's loads of advice online. I expect you'll need a fairly small slate - ours were 500x250.

 

IMG_6603 crop.JPG

 

Deliciously simple, and way better looking than a dry verge imo. 

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Well I'll be following this with great interest,

 

I'm battling with the dry v wet verge question at the moment, and sourcing my materials ready for when the panel company leave the site in March

 

I've watched heaps of videos, (I really like fixmyroof) and I am gaining confidence in doing it!

 

Are you planning on roofing the house yourself too?

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My outbuilding is tiled but I used the same verge system.

 

I worked out how much the tiles would overhang the verge and fitted a row slates overhanging the verge to support the mortar later. Then fitted the tile battens, and the tiles then mortared the verge and ridge.

 

I figured out it would be a lot of work lifting all the tiles onto the roof myself so hired someone to help out - passing tiles hand to hand rather than having to climb up and down the battens to get more made the job much easier.

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17 hours ago, Temp said:

My outbuilding is tiled but I used the same verge system.

 

I worked out how much the tiles would overhang the verge and fitted a row slates overhanging the verge to support the mortar later. Then fitted the tile battens, and the tiles then mortared the verge and ridge.

 

I figured out it would be a lot of work lifting all the tiles onto the roof myself so hired someone to help out - passing tiles hand to hand rather than having to climb up and down the battens to get more made the job much easier.

 

I hired a bumper conveyer belt from speedy.

£110 for the week. We were loading three crates of slates in under an hour. Talk about labour saving device.

I'd not slated before but myself and my wife fixed 220 mtrs of slate ourselves and all the lead work for the chimney and flashings.

It’s not that difficult. Start straight and keep checking your bond 

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Get a bit of lath and put a nail in one side so it sticks out the other side. Set up 6 slates on your roof as they would normally sit and then put the lath with the nail through it up against one side. Put a nail through the other end where the 6 tiles end. You can then go along the bottom and top lath and score with the nail where each 6 tiles should be. If you can get someone to give you a hand then a chalk line pinged from top to bottom will be an even better mark to tile to. This will keep your joins nice and straight when you look up.

Def go a dry ridge system, lasts forever and so much easier than carrying buckets of motar onto the roof.

Don't go to the expense of slate then put the plastic edges on for the verge. Looks horrible.

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4 hours ago, RandAbuild said:

Ian - I don't know if this helps and I'm no expert, but our garage roof was finished yesterday. Charming though your old piggery is, you don't want to go over the top so the planning authority end up listing it! What are you intending to use it for? If it's for storage, then I'd go for the simplest solution.

For example, use cement filleted verges (see cropped pic) and a wet ridge - they'll both see you out. You need to trim off those pointy rafter ends so you can get some guttering on there. I might be tempted to leave the OSB if it's reasonable quality, Sorry can't advise on gauging but there's loads of advice online. I expect you'll need a fairly small slate - ours were 500x250.

[...]

 

You are bang on with our thinking too: cement filleted verges and wet ridge is what we'd thought. And 250 by 500 is what the man from NW Roofing supplies suggested.

The piggery is for storage - at the moment.

 

But I took the precaution of 'connecting' the Piggery to the house by inserting four piles between the two buildings, so that at some stage we might link the house to the piggery without the set up costs of another piling session. The total added cost was £120  -instead of several thousand.

 

I don't fully understand gauging yet: but I will by the end of this weekend.

Thats what I love about BH: if you stick at it for long enough there is an answer to every question - you just need to be persistent.

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1 hour ago, Declan52 said:
  • Get a bit of lath and put a nail in one side so it sticks out the other side.
  • Set up 6 slates on your roof as they would normally sit [...]
  • Put the lath with the nail through it up against one side (of the roof).
  • Put a nail through the other end where the 6 tiles end. [...]
  • Go along the bottom and top lath and score with the nail where each 6 tiles should be.

If you can get someone to give you a hand then a chalk line pinged from top to bottom will be an even better mark to tile to. This will keep your joins nice and straight when you look up.

[...]

 

Worth reformatting your advice making quick and easy to scan and remember :D

 

What about the three mm gap (between slates)  that this bloke talks about @Declan52? (At 2:47, ostensibly to aid lateral spacing....)

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3 minutes ago, recoveringacademic said:

 

Worth reformatting your advice making quick and easy to scan and remember :D

 

What about the three mm gap (between slates)  that this bloke talks about @Declan52? (At 2:47, ostensibly to aid lateral spacing....)

Include the gaps. I did say put the 6 slates on the roof as they would normally sit. Using this method works with all types of tile. Once you have the first 3 rows in you will be able to see if you need to open or close the gap to get your bond right across the roof.

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4 hours ago, Tin Soldier said:

[...]

Are you planning on roofing the house yourself too?

 

No, but yes if necessary.

 

The Devil is in the detail, and at this time of year, speed will be of the essence.

Our final roof covering is set to be shakes (not shingles): that is split oak. The shakes are merely decorative, the construction below that is still a bit of mystery to me, but as usual I know all I have to do is plug away at it, and I will get there. I don't think it'll take more than a week to research it thoroughly.

Its a warm, vaulted  roof with 9 by 2 rafters, so that should be fun

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1 hour ago, recoveringacademic said:

 

What's Debbie's Day rate @nod ?

You may find that you bennifit from using a few slate and a half’s 

Saves finishing up with a scratty pieces on the edge  

You can put a slate sideways on for your starter row Then once you have marked out it will all come together 

 

The best quote we had was around 8K for labour

Which was more than expected 

But talk about using foam and silicone on awkward cuts and valleys 

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1 hour ago, recoveringacademic said:

 

Get thee behind me Satan......... >:(

 

Give me fifteen good reasons  why.

 

1. non breathable

2. Flammable

3. Will sweat

4. Short lifespan 

5. Degrades with heat not light

6.  Edges will degrade leading to water ingress

7. No guarantee unlike membrane

8. If you need another 8, ask someone else .... 

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Well, if you put it like that......

 

I was thinking of just leaving the green felt there and putting counter battens on top of it, and then  proper membrane on top, followed by battens and tiles in the normal way.

 

Why? Lazy.

(Normal?  Ha! Exceptional i.e. once only - ever - for me)

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8. That’s shed felt not piggery felt

9. The roughness will trap water behind your counterbattens and rot them 

10. The lap will cause a lump in your roof. 

11. It will make your slates a complete waste of money

12. The sweating in point 3 will cause condensation inside and damage all your valuable tools along with rotting the ply

13. Everyone that sees along with everyone here will know you’ve done it and think less of you

14. Because peter told you not to

15. Because I’m telling you not to

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