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My self-build DIY plumbing


Thorfun

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If the restriction is the device ( outlet ) then whatever pipe you fit, as long as it provides the minimum amount of water or more, will suffice. 15mm or 22mm will only deliver the potential available at the mains, after the stopcock / NRV etc, so a little academic imo. 
Fwiw, I have never piped a shower in 22mm pipework, ever, and have done more high-end / “luxury” bathroom installations than I can remember. Pretty much every one of those reported “fantastic” showers as an upgrade from either electric, gravity mixer, or pumped mixers. 
The only time I can say that this potential arrived at the shower head was when I installed customer supplied free standing steam / shower units ( cheap Chinese junk on a good day ) or again anything produced outside of the EU where there was little or no attenuation built in by design. These resulted in horrible, coarse, almost unpleasant jets of water flying out of the shower heads / sprays etc and the handsets become so violent that they tipped backwards in their holsters or came out of them altogether. And guess what? I had to install online flow restriction to calm than back down ;) 

Also, that amount of cow makes the shower very noisy, in both the emitted water bouncing off walls and floors, but also when it’s travelling ( squeezing its way ) through the cheapy outlet. 
I’ve got shower runs in in a good few new builds where the runs are all 15mm, with good quality outlets ( Vado / Hans Grohe / Bristan etc ) and zero problems - zero complaints, and some on runs in excess of 25m, some longer.

 

One of the big advantages of running Hep2o from manifold to outlet is the ability to run with long swept bends in one continuous run, thus making these runs the least resistive / convoluted runs possible, with the only acute bends / connections being at the outlet itself.

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@Nick Laslett

 

Exactly the same. 13m sweeping bends of 10mm.

 

5-6l/m Vs 8l/m for 15mm.  About 1l/m loss of this was throttling by the Flexi tails/tap. 

 

Hot water in 8-9 seconds. 2 seconds of this are emptying out the water held in the tap. 

 

 

Edited by Iceverge
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On 22/10/2022 at 10:16, Nickfromwales said:

I don’t use clips, I use all round band, black powder coated. For the HRC I use 25mm wall 22mm bore Climaflex and then a 50mm waste clip works perfectly.

You can also use a 50mm Munson ring style clamp, only 50p each at Direct Channel.

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23 hours ago, Nick Laslett said:

What about 15mm hot to kitchen tap for 800mm farmhouse sink?

 

Will fill time with 10mm be painfully slow? 13m of pipe. 

How many times do you fill the whole sink with water? If it’s daily, then 15mm prob better tbph. Bit more of a delay, but for your specific circumstances it’s very likely you will open the tap at a reasonably high rate of knots to fill the sink anyways, thus negating this ‘problem’ regarding differing pipe sizes vs performance, and you’ll be able to keep the cold slug of dead leg as useful volume as you’ll be putting a lot of hot on top of it. That means little / no wasted water if you don’t have an HRC at the kitchen. 

Edited by Nickfromwales
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9 hours ago, TonyT said:

No. Use another bracket and rod, just bend the rod to the angle, will look loads better and offer more support.

 

all round band is for fixing straight to walls and ceilings or pipe insulation touching structure.

 

 

 

33 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Lose the banding, and put another rubberised clamp just under the shoe of the rest bend. 
Do as @TonyT says. 


you both mean here?

 

image.jpeg.7984916a2323b02600ba41110c3277ff.jpeg
 

and how am I supposed to bend a threaded steel rod?! I don’t have a rebar bender. 

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