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My self-build DIY plumbing


Thorfun

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1 hour ago, crispy_wafer said:

I can see logically why you'd do the east/west split, but practically, for me it would be the one manifold each for me, for no other reason than simplicity. 

Yep I just did 1 hot , 1 cold manifold 

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1 hour ago, pocster said:

Yep I just did 1 hot , 1 cold manifold 

yeah, I get that. but my house is pretty much a game of two halves! big vaulted entrance hall in the middle and 2 sides to the house. so all of the east side pipes will go off one way and the west side the other way. just seemed logical to split them up.

 

but I'm leaning towards putting east and west together in attempt at unification of the waring factions.

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11 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

yeah, I get that. but my house is pretty much a game of two halves! big vaulted entrance hall in the middle and 2 sides to the house. so all of the east side pipes will go off one way and the west side the other way. just seemed logical to split them up.

 

but I'm leaning towards putting east and west together in attempt at unification of the waring factions.

Do what seems easiest ….

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21 minutes ago, Gone West said:

I had to have one hot water and one cold softened water and one cold hard water. Much easier living with naturally soft water.

we've discussed water softeners quite a bit in our household.

 

according to Southern Water we have 'Hard' water 

 

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which according to this website (https://www.aquacure.co.uk/knowledge-base/uk-hard-water-map/) makes us at the lower end of 'moderately hard' water.

 

with that and the fact that our plant room is in the basement and I'll need some form of sump and pump for the water softener discharge we've decided not to bother with a water softener.

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6 hours ago, Thorfun said:

with that and the fact that our plant room is in the basement and I'll need some form of sump and pump for the water softener discharge we've decided not to bother with a water softener.

Ours was 320mg/l so we had to have one really.

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spent a couple of days building the stud walls in the kids bathrooms for the Geberit frames. overall, I'm pretty happy. need to do some magic around the soil pipe going to the loft for the AAVs to get plasterboard fixed but in true @pocster fashion I'm sure I'll figure something out!

 

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IMG_4449.jpeg.738d4a55f075e97ad008cdbcb6b3d386.jpeg

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6 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

spent a couple of days building the stud walls in the kids bathrooms for the Geberit frames. overall, I'm pretty happy. need to do some magic around the soil pipe going to the loft for the AAVs to get plasterboard fixed but in true @pocster fashion I'm sure I'll figure something out!

Use the gerebit recommended height and account for flooring?  Our plumber was putting our in crazy-high until I noticed and told him to follow the geberit sticker.

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2 minutes ago, Dan F said:

Use the gerebit recommended height and account for flooring?  Our plumber was putting our in crazy-high until I noticed and told him to follow the geberit sticker.

yep. all at the correct height for the toilet's we're buying and the FFL and the soil pipe branch. waiting on the pans to get here so I can test fit to check 'squatting' levels before final fixing of the frames and building the shelving space that will go above the toilets.

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On 03/11/2022 at 18:04, Thorfun said:

I'm still a bit confused as to how the HRC manifold feeds back in to the hot manifold but I think that's a question for later!

It goes back into the UVC (lower down) I thought, it doesn't feed back into the hot manifold.  It will also need a pump.

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Just now, Dan F said:

It goes back into the UVC (lower down) I thought, it doesn't feed back into the hot manifold.  It will also need a pump.

ahh...ok cool. that makes sense.

 

I will be leaving that part of the plumbing up to a professional anyway. I will simply run all the hep2o pipes to the manifolds and let the plumber do the work connecting up the ASHP to UVC and then to the water manifolds and UFH manifolds. 

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Just now, Thorfun said:

ahh...ok cool. that makes sense.

 

I will be leaving that part of the plumbing up to a professional anyway. I will simply run all the hep2o pipes to the manifolds and let the plumber do the work connecting up the ASHP to UVC and then to the water manifolds and UFH manifolds. 

Put a T&E to pump location to control from Loxone relay.

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Just now, Dan F said:

Put a T&E to pump location to control from Loxone relay.

will do. but, tbh, the comms room (Loxone cabinet) is in the basement next door to the plant room so if I forget a cable or two down there it doesn't matter as running a new cable is trivial as none of it is getting boxed in.

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8 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

the toilet's we're buying

What did you go for in the end?  All european toilets are washdown AFAIK, the rest (assuming wall-mounted) comes down to:

- Brand/quality
- Rim/rimless
- Size (how much they stick out from wall, some brands have standard/compact)

- Glazing (standad or optional on some brands to help stop things sticking to the inside)

- Look

- If it has built-in bidet or not.

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15 minutes ago, Dan F said:

What did you go for in the end?  All european toilets are washdown AFAIK, the rest (assuming wall-mounted) comes down to:

- Brand/quality
- Rim/rimless
- Size (how much they stick out from wall, some brands have standard/compact)

- Glazing (standad or optional on some brands to help stop things sticking to the inside)

- Look

- If it has built-in bidet or not.

I’m not 100% sure as SWMBO is doing the bathroom furniture purchasing! I wanted Villeroy Boch but I think she’s chosen Vitra as a cheaper option. 
 

but definitely no water squirting up bum included 

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14 hours ago, Thorfun said:

with that and the fact that our plant room is in the basement and I'll need some form of sump and pump for the water softener discharge we've decided not to bother with a water softener.

 

Trying not to drift the thread too much, and I understand it will be difficult for you to do - if not too expensive/impossible but…

 

We’re in the southwest-ish and moved half a mile from old house to new build, the water softener has been without a doubt one of the best decisions we made. The old place, scale everywhere, that shower spray stuff to clean the shower glass and all that guff. The new place, nothing, no scale, no sprays, 1 washing machine thingy instead of two etc etc. the salts not cheap but the pristine taps/glass and all that kinda stuff pay for it. 

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1 hour ago, Thorfun said:

I'm sure I'll figure something out!

 

I think that's what we all do but @pocster is one of the few to openly admit it! 😁 I always find those bits around soil pipes and other services to need some extra thought for plasterboard fixings. I find one of my most common questions to self is: how the hell am I going to make that work? Lots of spare battens come in handy, or some cls ripped in half. It's interesting that the carpentry/framing books all miss out the difficult bits too.

 

Framing looks very nice...btw

 

 

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9 hours ago, Russdl said:

 

Trying not to drift the thread too much, and I understand it will be difficult for you to do - if not too expensive/impossible but…

 

We’re in the southwest-ish and moved half a mile from old house to new build, the water softener has been without a doubt one of the best decisions we made. The old place, scale everywhere, that shower spray stuff to clean the shower glass and all that guff. The new place, nothing, no scale, no sprays, 1 washing machine thingy instead of two etc etc. the salts not cheap but the pristine taps/glass and all that kinda stuff pay for it. 

I don't think it's a thread drift at all. it's all to do with plumbing so completely on track.

 

do you know what your hardness ppm is? I can resurrect this discussion with the family but our toilets and washing machine will be on rainwater and so it's just the taps/showers that will be on mains and as we're at the low end of moderately hard I'm just not sure it's worth it. 

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