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My self-build DIY plumbing


Thorfun

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1 hour ago, Thorfun said:

I might get 3 and change that 92.5° bend with access point to a 135° branch as you previously suggested you'd do differently.

Nope. Leave well alone. The outlet of that replacement branch which would take a rodding / cleaning eye would be up against that rigid MVHR duct, so a pointless adaptation with worse results AFAIC.

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2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Nope. Leave well alone. The outlet of that replacement branch which would take a rodding / cleaning eye would be up against that rigid MVHR duct, so a pointless adaptation with worse results AFAIC.

indeed! I went out and had another look this morning and you're spot on here. am definitely leaving that alone. thanks for your help so far. I will post pictures of the fixes you've recommended for critique later. 😉 

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2 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

indeed! I went out and had another look this morning and you're spot on here. am definitely leaving that alone. thanks for your help so far. I will post pictures of the fixes you've recommended for critique later. 😉 

I’ll get my red marker pen ready……..👀

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2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

I’ll get my red marker pen ready……..👀

right! I've finished my homework @Nickfromwales. but it has thrown up another issue but I'll get to that in a bit.

 

IMG_4400.jpeg.57ad4f2e0e2f782d340eee70ddf4a63d.jpeg

 

IMG_4406.jpeg.4714ce82625721ae1f40ff41c540516d.jpeg

 

and with annotation in case it's not obvious

 

IMG_4402.jpeg.3042119986030bf26c944a759138c5b7.jpeg

 

does this work?

 

and, the problem it has now brought up is the pipe coming from the other room in the basement doesn't line up with the second 135° branch now. so I've had to put two 15° bends  before the 45° into the 135° branch to get it to line up. 

 

IMG_4399.jpeg.fa1a28a87cfafba4668476ac6e5654a0.jpeg

IMG_4403.jpeg.9a2f5646f7b5ddebb15d9d9a6fba2d81.jpeg

 

and from above

 

IMG_4404.jpeg.a2fbe21d67a1ca39999578b866b8e0f0.jpeg

 

is that ok to do that? or should I be drilling a new hole in the wall to get it to line up without bends?

 

 

 

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It’s fine. Much better than the previous splat and stop arrangement  ;) 

 

If this is your first crack at soil pipe runs, then you’ve just beaten the “30 years in the game” fcuk-ups laid by my current clients ( now since discharged ) builder :) Looks like a first year apprentice laid them. Whilst hungover, then realised what a bag of shit it all was, and then hurriedly back-filled it all without informing the BCO ( as it first needed inspecting by them!?!? ). You’re doing very well.

 

I’d put the 2x 15’s at the wall end, so the highest velocity pushes through those, and then the flow through the 45 & 135 will be far smoother.

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4 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

You’re doing very well.

thank you. ☺️ 

 

although sometimes it doesn't feel that way!

 

5 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

I’d put the 2x 15’s at the wall end, so the highest velocity pushes through those, and then the flow through the 45 & 135 will be far smoother.

consider it done.....well....on Sunday that is as tomorrow is a day off for me.

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On 14/10/2022 at 00:56, andyscotland said:

think underground pipe is not UV resistant and the colour is to mark that

Correct. It becomes a lighter colour, harder and brittle in daylight  esp sun, over 2 of 3 years. I think brown is just a cheap default colour, and grey is more expensive to make but more attractive.

 

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11 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

 

Same as swimming in the Cornish sea after a small shower.

Rained yesterday, today, there were so many swimmers that they used up 2 parking spaces for their clobber.

Still, tomorrow it will be empty, like their bowels, eventually.

 

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question time.....

 

as I get ready to pressure test each section of pipe I'm wondering how I plug a solvent weld boss hole in a non-permanent way? I have bungs for the 110mm pipes and push fit caps but I can't obviously push-fit in to the solvent weld bosses. 

 

I'm wondering if there's a rubber bung like we all used to use in chemistry test tubes that'll do the job?

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5 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

question time.....

 

as I get ready to pressure test each section of pipe I'm wondering how I plug a solvent weld boss hole in a non-permanent way? I have bungs for the 110mm pipes and push fit caps but I can't obviously push-fit in to the solvent weld bosses. 

 

I'm wondering if there's a rubber bung like we all used to use in chemistry test tubes that'll do the job?

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bailey-94-110mm-drain-test-plug-2-pack/62513?

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26 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

damn! where were you yesterday when I spent £10 on the other things that are due for delivery on Tuesday! 😉 

 

think I'll pick up a couple of your solution as well as I have to pop to near Toolstation today anyway.

 

thank you.

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tomorrow's job is dealing with this bend and the run to join up with the other soil pipes.

image.thumb.png.7fdfb7327d6e3daec2057a3796736bf3.png

I can't find a long radius bend with access so I was thinking of using a rest bend and then in to a 135° branch with an access point on the branch? 

 

the other option is a 45° bend in to a 135° branch with the access point plugged in to the branch?

 

the third option is the 92.5° bend with access point built in that I've used before?

 

which is the best way?

 

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7 hours ago, Thorfun said:

which is the best way?

Defo use the rest bend for a long radius return from vertical to horizontal, as there will be a lot of oomph needed to get the dolphins along the straight horizontal run and out to sea.

 

Have that rest bend going immediately into a 135 Y branch, with the branch off to whichever side is open for access, with the branch not flat but just set up maybe 15o to ensure nothing gets left to sit in the internal ‘mouth’ of the branch.

 

Into that unused branch outlet you then install a 110mm rodding access cap.

 

If you ever need to ‘empty out’ you can just grab the branch and rotate it to get the branch facing slightly downhill, then simply ask the most annoying relative / visitor you know to hold a large bucket whilst you shout instructions, telling them how many more turns on the cap before the magic happens etc.

 

You could make like easier by doing all of this in 150mm, if you’re going to use 150mm for the horizontal run? That way, the friend or relative can get their forearm in to manually grab any problematic item. 👍 

Edited by Nickfromwales
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33 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Defo use the rest bend for a long radius return from vertical to horizontal, as there will be a lot of oomph needed to get the dolphins along the straight horizontal run and out to sea.

 

Have that rest bend going immediately into a 135 Y branch, with the branch off to whichever side is open for access, with the branch not flat but just set up maybe 15o to ensure nothing gets left to sit in the internal ‘mouth’ of the branch.

 

Into that unused branch outlet you then install a 110mm rodding access cap.

 

If you ever need to ‘empty out’ you can just grab the branch and rotate it to get the branch facing slightly downhill, then simply ask the most annoying relative / visitor you know to hold a large bucket whilst you shout instructions, telling them how many more turns on the cap before the magic happens etc.

 

You could make like easier by doing all of this in 150mm, if you’re going to use 150mm for the horizontal run? That way, the friend or relative can get their forearm in to manually grab any problematic item. 👍 

This is the solution I’d decided on and bought a rest bend when I was out earlier. I’m very glad to have it confirmed as the right thing to do! 
 

I’m not going to do the horizontal in 150mm though. I’ll stick with 110mm. I presume that’s fine? It’ll have to end up at 110mm anyway to join the other 2 branches. 
 

this, along with testing each of the 3 runs individually, is tomorrow’s job! I’ll update the thread with photos. 😊

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