Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'window'.
Found 24 results
-
I am installing external wood fibre insulation between adjustable wooden joists on the external wall. There will then be a membrane, counter battens, horizontal battens, and vertical larch cladding. At the head of window/door reveals, standard advice is to use a flashing to drain any water at base of ventilated space behind cladding (e.g. https://woodcampus.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/9DetailOpenings-vert14-1-15.pdf). In my case, the 240 mm deep joists require closing at base at the head of the reveal, and battens are required to take the larch lining of the reveal head. The only way I can think of doing this is summarized in the attached sketch (hope it is understandable). The cavity behind the vertical larch cladding is vented at bottom and top, but the space between battens at the head of the reveal is only vented beneath the flashing. I can't think of any other way of doing this. If anybody has any alternative suggestions, I would love to hear them. Thank you. Window reveal head.pdf
-
Hi, hoping for some advice reassurance please. We are adding an extension to the back and side of our solid wall 1920s house. After much deliberation we have decided on a pitch roof, I prefer the look of this and also we won't need planning consent. The architect has designed a 15 degree pitch, but we do not have room fot the recommended 150mm upstand due to 2 upstairs windows, however the architect has reassured us that the reduced upstand is still with the guidelines. We have had a couple of builders take a look at the whole of our plans so we have some reassurance that what we are doing is ok before the architect completes the building reg drawings. One has suggested that we may encounter problems with a reduced upstand, albeit within guidelines and is suggesting that we incorporate a gully tray. Not sure what this is but tried to Google. Can this be done on solid walls? What are people's thoughts? Thanks in advance.
-
I am embarking on a kitchen/diner and repair project on my home that will require the installation of new/replacement windows and a bi-fold or French door. My property is a grade two listed building so my planning/listed building consent is conditional. The conditions are that I use wood for the construction of windows and doors and that they are painted white. They will have to have Georgian glazing bars and these will have to pass through the window so no stuck-on bars will be permitted. Each pain will have to be an individual unit such as the Wescountry Heritage range http://www.westcountryglass.co.uk/westcountry-heritage My application can be seen at https://planning.eastdevon.gov.uk/online-applications/simpleSearchResults.do?action=firstPage I am contacting joiners at present and have had a number of different suggestions as to the type of timber to be used. The suggestions include: Accoya Douglas Fir European Oak Utile Idigbo Baltic Pine/Scandinavian Redwood I have contacted the Wood Window Alliance http://www.woodwindowalliance.com/, which is already providing me with some good information. I would be grateful for any views on the suitability of timbers in my list or alternative suggestions. Also any links to useful sources of information or forums would help. Many thanks in anticipation!
-
I need a new window opening in my kitchen (1.5 by 1m), it is actually an old window that has been bricked up and we are essentially re-installing it. Structural engineer came around was very reassuring that it should be straight forward plus or minus needing a new lintel. Builder came around and said that there are cracks going through the lintel so it might be that when they remove the bricked up opening the arch will fall (window opening is at the ground floor of the house). He then quoted the following: Labour £400+vat Mats £80+vat New concrete cill and new concrete lintel £400+vat Temp support for brickwork £350+vat Does this look ok to people? Is this a fair price (we are based in London but still!) including the price of materials?
-
Hello. We have a first floor bay window that sits on a brick wall that is 1 brick deep with render on the outside. The render had a few vertical cracks which were repaired and the outside of the house was repainted a couple of years ago. Please see the photos. In the middle of the bay window is a long radiator. On the wall beneath the window cill there is damp on the left side where the cill touches the side wall and this damp continues across most of the bay under the cill. There is no dampness on the side walls above where the window cill touches them. There is also white mould on the wallpaper. Where wallpaper has been removed for photos the plaster is cracked and discoloured. Two questions - 1. Could this dampness be due to condensation? 2. Will replastering the wall then insulating it cure the problem? All thoughts welcome. David.
-
Hi I'm building a cold frame for the garden, and I have to join 50mm batton's together at a shallow angle, see attached drawing. How do I attach batton A to B without the frame being slightly twisted. It looks like I need a 45 x 3mm wedge but that doesn't look very easy to make as i'm just a diy'er. Is there a better/simpler solution?
-
Are there restrictions on having windows above an external gas meter box, and if so what are they?
-
Hi, has anyone here tried, or come across an example of, creating hinged opening greenhouse roof vents using 'on-rafter' aluminium glazing bars? To make things a little more complicated, ideally, we're looking to make them bottom-hinged. I've seen the prefabricated roof vent offerings from Howells and Ultraframe, but I'm primarily interested in a site-built solution. I'll post up a drawing of where I'd got to thinking about this, presently. thanks for reading - JS -
Hi all. I'm in the process of having some new windows and sills fitted by some local fitters after deciding it was too much to take on myself. Most of the windows are in now but quite a few of them have gaps between the top of the sill and the underside of the window frame. This isn't the drainage gap...this area is fine. Most guides I've seen suggest that the sill should be sealed to the underside of the windows especially at the ends to prevent water finding a path to the wall. The fitters haven't used any sealant between them, but they say this is fine and normal in the trade. The hasn't been attached to the frame by screwing it up from underneath, but by screwing down through the frame into the top of the sill, which clearly hasn't worked very well. They're proposing to put longer screws in to catch the bottom of the sill too and pull it tighter. This doesn't sound right. FENSA seems to suggest that the window and sill should be well sealed together, as does the Eurocell (manufacturer) fitting guide. These guys are CERTASS registered, which I assume have similar standards? What do you all suggest? Is this normal? Or good enough? Will water be able to get to my house? Can they rectify without taking the windows out? The images are from a 1.8m wide window, but there are similar gaps on some 2.4m wide ones and also narrower ones. There are also some windows with 15mm is gaps underneath them which are foam packed, which they intend to back-fill with mortar. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
-
So I have come across this handle as you can see in the picture that needs replacement. Which is fine I have replaced many of them in the couple of years but I have never come across one like this. The base plate can't be turned to assess the screws because it was installed against the window beading. So my question is did anyone has ever replaced a handle in the same situation and how did you do it? Thank you
-
I'm putting a double glazed window in an elevation of my new kitchen/diner extension that abuts a neighbour's property. I have to comply with building regulations so as to provide thirty minute fire resistance. Can anyone point me towards some more information on this such as a technical (but not too technical!) description of what is required, please?
-
Hi all, I'm trying to work out how to plasterboard the inside of my Fakro roof windows. There is a groove around the inside of the window frame which I believe the plasterboard sits in, but that would leave a gap of around 25mm behind the plasterboard, between the plasterboard and the timber rafter. Also, the plasterboard coming out from the window would be at an angle meeting the ceiling plasterboard, unless I maintain the gap. How is this usually done? Do I need to batten out the gap between the plasterboard and timber rafter? This seems like a very fiddle job if so, as the gap in not consistent along the length of the window... Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers
-
Hello. Our build is planned to have tilt/turn windows all round (1.5 storey house with dormer windows and large gable feature window). Now it has just occurred to me that instead of having tilt/turns all round, why don't we have standard casement windows which have one opening method opposed to two for tilt/turn. The only advantage I can see for tilt/turn windows is they open inwards to clean etc however I could see this being a pain if you have anything in front of the window on the inside! On the safety side of things does a normal casement window comply? I don't see why it wouldn't given it complies with the 450mm minimum width/height restriction as per building regulations? They are probably a lot cheaper than tilt turn also I would imagine!? I have noticed a lot of you on here discuss top hung windows quite regularly. Thanks!
-
Hi all, My name is Bruno. I just joined on the recommendation of a friend as I am in the middle of a renovation project on the French windows at the back of the house that open onto the garden and would appreciate advice. The house was built in 1934 and the windows may be as old as the house. It is a wooden frame with 2 opening panes in the centre and 2 fixed panes on the sides. I noticed the paint was flaking off so decided it would be a good job for a bank holiday weekend to strip the paint and give it a new coat. I then realised that it has at least 5 layers of paint of different ages and the sealant around the glass units is flaking suggesting I should renew it. As I'm in for a more complex project than initially planned, I wondered if I could take this opportunity to replace the single panes of glass with double glazed sealed units. I am aware that double glazed sealed units would be a fair bit thicker than the current single units. So my questions are: Can it be done? Where can I get double glazed units? How can I size the thickness of the glass + spacer? Do I need to fit the new units differently than the old ones? Will the weight on the frame increase and is that a problem? I attached some photos of the windows. Thanks! Bruno
-
Hi, We have 2 corner windows, Ground floor & First floor same sized opening. The photo shows the Ground floor, the First floor opening will be directly above it. The opening dimensions are 1500mm tall and 2400mm wide each side. We would like to be able to fully open the First floor set and the only thing I can think of is a short set of glazed bifold doors i.e 1500mm tall. So my questions are; Is it possible to get bifold windows and if so can anyone recommend a supplier Is there a solution other than bifold? I would appreciate any ideas of suitable products that would allow us to open the space fully. Thanks John
-
Hi, I wanted to ask for your advice here on the forum. My roofer started building a wooden frame for a new roof window - pivoted Velux 2070. With the dimensions of 55x78cm it seems to me rather small and I would be interested in having a bigger window to provide as much natural light as possible. My builder is saying that the frame he constructed is of the maximum size possible without seriously changing structural parts of the roof. I'm not a specialist, but it seems to me that since the two rafters are already cut (see photo attached) that the size of the frame and window could be significantly bigger - or am I missing something? Advice appreciated!
-
I hope somebody on the forum might be able to help me. We have a trapezium window on our bedroom (approx 1.5m at widest point) and are considering creating a balcony that we access through the opening, however, it's a trapezium shape so it makes things a bit (lot) more complicated. The options we have considered (and discounted): Inward opening door - not enough space for door to swing Outward opening door hanging from angled side of opening - probably puts too much strain on hinges (but happy to be corrected on that?) Outward opening door hanging from straight side of opening - will require more space on the balcony to allow the door to swing out. Creating a narrow rectangular door within the trapezoid - will spoil the look of the window with the extra vertical lines Sliding pocket doors - this is a possibility but we would have to create a pocket and does anybody know a company who makes them in custom shapes? A custom Roof Terrace door (like the one made by Velux) - does anybody know a company who would be likely to make something like that? Or, the ideal world solution that we have no idea whether it exists or not: A door that pushes out then slides on runners fixed along the front of the house - has anybody ever seen something like this? Any help or alternative solutions gratefully received.
-
Well that tops off a really crap week! Just had the fitters come and fit the last doors ....INCLUDING the specially made aluminium bifold Of course like everything else outside the house ...it is in "chartwell green" ...UPVC doors, Windows, Rafter Feet, Fascia Board ....EVERYTHING Off i went to make them tea and butties and when i came back BOOM...WTF ...I hope thats plastic film i asked! >No my friend ....its the colour I said ...it is NOTHING like chartwell green >I agree my friend So why have i got it > We dont make these doors is aluminium you need to talk boss...is special made to order Yes i remember >and we gave your wife a colour swatch and a form to fill in why, just make them the same as the PVC ones you supplied >because they only do the RAL colour ..so you have to choose close match well she never picked this >ok , you call office, i am only fitter so after an hour.... i got a scan of the order and sure enough she wrote down swatch RAL 6021 which according to the internet is the closest RAL colour to chartwell bloody green but she SWEARS the swatch was nowhere near as dark as this So ...i am sure she cant live with it ....see picture .. They will not refund our £2k as we chose the colour So i guess we have to change the colour ourselves.... Anyone have any ideas? ...only the outside PS ANYONE ELSE WANTING TO FALL INTO THE CHARTWELL GREEN CLUB. REMEMBER THIS ....I HAS SPOKE TO A LOT OF PEOPLE AND CHARTWELL GREEN IS N-O-T A RECOGNISED COLOUR IT DOES N-O-T HAVE AN RGB OR CMYK VALUE ... WHAT THIS MEANS IS THAT ANY COMPANY DOING A SIMILAR GREENY SHADE CAN CALL IT "CHARTWELL GREEN" SO BE AWARE ...IF YOU DONT GET A FINISHED PAINTED/COATED SAMPLE OF WHAT YOU WANT ...DO N-O-T BUY IT
- 19 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- bifold
- chartwell green
- (and 3 more)
-
We've finally approved the drawings for our timber frame house and the erection is slated for January. Time to order our windows. The supplier and the price are both sorted, but something that cannot be agreed upon is whether the windows are installed before or after the house is rendered. MBC and Velfac are adamant the property should be rendered first. Our renderer says not. What has everyone else done in this situation? -
My wife found a crack in a window today. It is the middle and inside pane of a 3G window. Looks like some kind of stress in the frame to me. Should this be covered by the warranty?
-
Hi. Current annoyance is trying to find a supplier for a stairwell smoke ventilation window / roof vent for a pitched roof. Anyone got a lead for such a supplier ? Has to open to 120 degrees from horizontal iirc. Thanks all.
-
We plan to have about 5 square meters of roof light. It's above our Winter Garden. (1720 by 3200) On a partially protected South West face The darkish area below the roof is an open, barn-style set of baffles. ... I'm thinking about our equinoxial gales, and the occasional hoolie. The area to the right of the glazing is meant to represent solar PV I'm wondering whether polycarbonate is the best choice? Or maybe 4 toughened glass sheets? I have no experience of polycarbonate at all. I've looked at too many videos. I'm all over the place and wonder what your experience is? Ian
-
I've got a sliding door that weighs circa 800kg and the best way to get it to the back of the house is via means of a crane. Extra expense at just under £1k which includes insurance for the crane, but not for the door. It can get breezy here and I want to be sure that if it all goes wrong (i.e. crane topples over into the house, smashing the new roof, skylights and ultimately the door), then I need the security that I'm fully covered. Site insurance only seems to cover plant hire up to around 20k - not quite enough for a £1m crane, so I will simply have to fork out on the separate crane insurance that the crane firm have offered (£260). How about my door? Contractors fitting that won't take responsibility for that. I don't have site insurance yet, but will that cover me if the worst happens? I'll be getting site insurance soon in any case as most of the trades will be showing up in the next 6months now (most bits were done by me up to this point/or contractors had insurance). Thanks! -
I'm about to start installing the breather membrane onto my timber frame. This will be hung vertically and then fixed via battens every 600. Question- do I fix a horizontal batten at the top and bottom of each window opening?
