cherryfountain

Have you looked at British Gypsum Gyplyner system

I used 100mm bore pipe insulation with 50mm wall thickness on all my soil pipes coming up through the slab . Just make sure they are wired or large cable tied to the pipe to stop them popping up when the concrete is poured .

I always found the Franke and Blanco kits to work well without any other sealants .

https://www.drainageonline.co.uk/above-ground-drainage/soil-and-waste-systems/chrome-waste-pipe-and-fittings/chrome-waste-pipe-x-1100mm-wp105c-wp106c?gclid=CjwKCAiA-vLyBRBWEiwAzOkGVGH39G85_zS6SX9-jHgEF5--fS4-QU7fXNK7053lOsogDoBqrl0QERoC76sQAvD_BwE#fo_c=2925&fo_k=5bc2cf76166602c4203081340e85fdab&fo_s=gplauk

A good point you make .

Just put your drain trap on the floor and fill it with water and see if water stays in the bottom after the surplus has run out the waste connection.

Stitch drill the circle and finish off with the core bit.Remember if it’s a finished wall on the outside the stitch drilling will blow the surface away ,so stop drilling before you go right through the wall if that’s the case.

This company has an interesting foundation system. I don’t know how far they travel. https://www.abbeypynford.co.uk/our-services/housedeck/

This company were at future build ideal for a second kitchen. http://elfinkitchens.co.uk/

Just make sure the taps you choose are suitable for the hot and cold water pressure you have in the house .

You need a set of box spanner’s like these.Plenty on Ebay,B&Q,Screwfix,Toolstation.

Have you thought of using something like Ikea or other online kitchen planners for your kitchen plan. You need far more information than on these pictures.I agree with your thoughts on wall units, also consider tall housings for appliances and storage. Instead of cupboards under the worktops pan drawer sets work well . In the corners 900 l shape base units give you the best access for basic units.

Here is some information about Stepoc. Stepoc Installation Details (rev9).pdf

Has anyone on here used Stepoc blocks for basement walls? What are the pros and cons for this system?

It looks good value and comes with basket strainers as well !! Extra cost on lots of sinks. Just make sure that the base unit is big enough for an Undermount sink to drop in. #

Here is what to look for when buying a stainless sink. You will find that most of the cheap sinks are magnetic which means poor quality stainless.The mirror finishes should be avoided as they scratch easily. The better quality sinks only have one tap hole and need to be ordered either LH or RH drainer. https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/5-tips-shopping-stainless-steel-sink

Undermount sinks are no good for laminate worktops.If they are wood worktops you will need a jig and heavy duty router as edge is on show. The raw edge deteriorates over time .Undermount sinks are best with granite and quartz worktops, they are far more difficult than sit on sinks to fit.

You can just extend the existing hose with a kit like this.There is no water pressure in this hose so a leak is unlikely, just run the machine and check the hose before you put the plinth back. If the hose connects to the sink trap just make sure to use the u shape form making the hose position higher than the connection to the trap as it stops dirty water running back down the pipe when you pull the plug on a bowl full of water. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018K9UO7Q/ref=asc_df_B018K9UO7Q57342624/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22146&creativeASIN=B018K9UO7Q&linkCode=df0&hvadid=255708777834&hvpos=1o24&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2617950745367274315&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045104&hvtargid=pla-529609684701

Forgot to mention Howdens 616mm

There is no problem getting deeper worktops from a specialist Worktop suppliers.Makes such as Durapal,Axium,Resopal all make laminate worktops 665 and 900 double post formed Just cut the back off to the depth you need .They come in much longer lengths 3.6 and 4.1 metres .Plenty of suppliers on the internet , Laminate edging is usually a separate item to order.

Our experience of pre-ap advice has been fantastic. Our chosen site is outside the village boundary and in an AONB. We first applied about 30 years ago, together with more recent attempts to get planning, but thought we’d try just one more time. The pre-ap was not free. We had two meetings costing about £300. At the first meeting the planner walked around the site and said that although we are outside, we are in fact ‘adjacent to’ the village boundary. This made the difference. The idea is that we would trade the erection of one house against the boundary in exchange for replacing old pigsties with a copse. We drew up a proposal and at the second meeting there were further constructive suggestions. A couple of weeks ago we got permission. This would not have happened without excellent pre-ap advice.

This looks a totally unprofessional job and I would refuse to pay any more money until it is sorted out. Quartz worktop blanks are up to 3050x900to1400 deep why so many joints? Was the job properly templated as all details of tap position, drainer grooves,cutouts,sink position,polished edges, joint positions are all clearly written on the templates all to be confirmed by the customer before being fabricated. Where there are joints they should be barely visible when bonded with the proper matching epoxy adhesive .If you look on YouTube there are videos on how a joint should look.

You could return mitre the upstand . The gap between the W/T and wall use matching mastic as suggested.

I assume you have the instructions for fitting oak worktops as you also need a couple of coats of oil on all raw edges and underneath before fitting and fit a vapour barrier above appliances like dishwasher and washing machines .The screws holding the worktop to the units also need to be able to move to stop splitting.

You are lucky ,Franke sinks are a good make and basket strainer sets are readily available . Have a look on EBay you can proberbly just replace the plug.