Ferdinand

The principle is cost-recovery. I think they are mistaken in asking for £136 given the multi-option, so I suggest you challenge that. Just be glad you aren't a commercial bod at £234. I wonder what charities pay? Locally at the moment near here there is a portaloo tied to a lamp-post on the old A38. F

I have ended up creating accounts with many of the chains and sheds, except Jewsons who are miles away. I have found a few things cheaper at TP on the day, and they do deliveries for a fiver which can outbalance small orders from others.

Needs a comment from @SteamyTea, who has professional experiresponsibility me with GRP but perhaps not under concrete. I would be suspicious about GRP as it is brittle at the joints. Need to be sure no one walks on one, and that it is protected by the concrete. Presumably you are casting drains into the concrete surface. F

@Jml It is two storey in the op, and as I read it bullet point 9 or 10 on your link says max 3m eaves height within 2m of boundary. Your England note is a good point. F

PErmitted development is 3m max eaves height within 2m of a boundary, and then you need to watch for gutter overhang etc. See this link. So yes they would need planning. I think they will also have the right to insert reinforced foundations under your garden. You need to understand that PP does not give them the general right to encroach on your property without your permission eg you can charge them rent for placing scaffolding in your garden. And as it is so far down your garden I think they will get planning permission. One area you need to work out is who owns the hedge and where the boundary is and make sure it is clear, though it looks like their hedge on their land. NOt sure about Party Wall Agreements. But no Council will enforce anything until they have actually DONE something unlawful, and they may just give retrospective permission, and most of the enforcement will be down to you protecting your civil rights if it comes to that. Things to do. 1 Talk to your Council Planners and work out exactly where you stand, or consult the Planning Advice service from the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors, RICS. See their website ... they will only give general law and policy advice not specific cases. 2 - Talk to your neighbours and explain the limitations with evidence. Always the practical place to start. Don't make any rash black and white statements. 3 - I would consider building something on your side up to the boundary if you want to discourage them from building to the boundary, such as a garage, workshop or shed. Or a 4ft deep carp pond all along that side up to the boundary would make their attempted insertion of foundations more interesting. 4 - In your position I would be looking at outline pp for a small house or bungalow on your land at the bottom if feasible and then selling off the plot. Ferdinand

If you are planning cast-in-place then I would advise against. I had a leak in one that had been built into a student house 16-17 years earlier, and we had to dig up the whole bl**dy thing. Nightmare. Ferdinand

You may well get a good price if you buy the materials with the tiles, especially if buying from an independent. If so, talk to your tiler about what to get. Generally the powdered type that binds chemically rather than the premixed stuff in a bucket is the better option.

@epsilonGreedy 'Wise-owl' is a good phrase. I shall steal it and stop talking about HOGs.

@daiking Looking at those piccies further thoughts are: 1 - Some sort of fence or gate level with the end of the extension which can be closed when you are away. Not particularly elegant, but would make it more awkward for housebreakers. Could be relatively low or the full 1.8m or 2m. 2 - A hinged security grill / gate eg wrought iron attached to the house wall on the left as you look out of the French Doors. To be closed when necessary. You could probably get away with that not being the full 2m .. 1.5m would Perhaps suffice. 3 - The ideal solution would perhaps be a built in electric roller shutter, but I think this is not part of your extension so would not have been possible. And those things are quite expensive. 4 - You could put a surface mount roller shutter in, and hide it under some kind of vestigial "porch" roof .. with the 'purpose' of the roof being to avoid dripping water or as a shelter for eg outside toys and bikes etc. If it were me, I would prefer 3 subject to cost and feasibility, but 2 and 4 would be acceptable. To me 1 would feel too much like a prison unless a secure outside storage area were required. Ferdinand

You could put a security film on the French Doors if you are concerned, such that it is more difficult to smash the glazing units. Or make one side of each unit laminated? Perhaps get into the habit of removing the key from the lock in the French doors and putting it out of sight. F

This is a close up of one of my Oak Veneered doors. It is a Todd Doors Cottage Oak style done with Osmo Satin Polyx Oil. I will have to crop and rotate when on the right computer.

THey also have an xcellent stair designer on the site.

Can you explain why that is structural? I need to be educated :-). I understood structural glazing to be loadbearing.

A court will require that you have attempted resolution anyway, and will base its judgement partly on who acted reasonably. Perhaps talk to your architect as a first step, who should know something about these things, and have met similar before? After all, he is your architect, employed by you to work for you.

Could you just withhold 2k from the final invoice, explain why, and leave them to incur the legal costs? You may end up counter claiming in the Small Claims Court when they sue you.

You could try via the marketplace, but I expect that 1 - they are in constant use. 2 - transport would be an issue, as might insurance. 3 - diggers are perhaps easy to break expensively, especially the ones self-builders may buy. 4 - they are a relatively expensive purchase. 5 - liability issues? F

It is not that far off the difference in prices of plots.

Looks superb.

Perhaps there is woodchip underneath the paint . /optimist

Easier to clean with perhaps smoke :-).

ABsolutely. I bought a 32kg version partly for the weight, while the Wickes ones are I think 27kg. I also wanted it to feel heavy when opened. As far as I could tell the weight difference was in the fibreboard core but I am no expert. My joiner was impressed with the doors I gave him to work on, and apparently creating the holes for the latches etc was a bit of a sod ..

Nothing to add as I am around the corner from @PeterW, except to do the temporary thing to be a suitable base for whatever finish will be in your final driveway. F

If it is dry rot you are going to be removing and replacing all affected wood, then extra as a buffer, then treating the rest. If you are doing floors etc it would make sense to treat everything you can reach. And everything removed needs to be handled very carefully to prevent reinfection from the waste - hopefully others can outline the exact procedures. You may be into professional assessments even if self-treating. It will be worth spending some time learning properly about it, which I am sure you will do anyway. For one thing it can grow through walls, plaster and masonry. One link: https://www.timberwise.co.uk/2008/10/dry-rot-the-facts-from-the-dry-rot-experts/ Ferdinand

@nod We have talked about price before, but if you have all the Wickes discounts you can get their Geneva doors in this style for £61 each delivered if you have about 5 or more at present untreated. I found that a 2.5l £75 can of Polyx Oil did about 7 doors 2 coats both sides and some other shelves etc.. Another 5% may be possible if you catch a holiday or Monday offer. I paid a bit more elsewhere as I needed a 55mm trimming margin. Ferdinand

Best of luck.