Ferdinand

https://faculty.washington.edu/chudler/dice2.html Then do it with the appropriate edge hinges.

Get sufficient proof that they are bust, or have checked, and they will take your say-so as enough to reverse the payment, probably over the phone. The only issue I can see is if their is a regulation about part-payments.

If it is either a storm shelter or shed, the cut out could be used as a bench or bed inside. But it might be better as a flatpack like the dice you made at school. But I can see no reason why the window and door could not be pre-cut, and the thing be 7ft inside not 8ft, as that would reduce the freight-weight by 15%+. The cut out could be sold to a hipster as chic, to pay for the entire thing ?. F

To add to this thread, as it may be useful. This is a design I sketched out on @simplepimple's plot. Basic idea I have attached a few prices of something a little more as I would do on that plot. Not to say that it is the only way to do it, but for alternative view and food for thought. It is a little larger by 120sqft but I am not sure that the cost would be much more. It is also a concept rather than complete, for example the way in is not resolved and there are several options. Personally I would take it right to the N boundary, create a little more space in the S patio, and adjust a few rooms depending on just what I needed. THere are lots of other possibles. (Sorry for the variable orientations; you will all have to stand on your heads, and read the other one as 'put you to sleep' material in bed.) Trad bungalow Actual Plot Alternative Proposal Commentary Good stuff. That layout out is still quite unfinished .. it would need input from yourself on things like entrances, and how you want to live. It is amazing how much is added by very little extra area. Eg moving from a 10x10 bedroom to a 11x14 bedroom, What happens is that the amount of perceived space .. eg not taken up by the bed and the door opening .. doubles or triples. It is rather like the perceived size of a car is 70-80% based on the length. On 680sqft or so, you can get 2 nice double bedrooms etc, but there are compromises on other things eg in this layout the kitchen is a bit tight and the south garden is reduced. A perforated screening wall on the building line may be the solution. It will need all need a lot of thought. If the bungalow went right to the top of the plot, you could have 3 bedrooms if really needed, but that extra space might be better in the south garden. You could also have a modest path all the way round for maintenance, but since you only have one neighbour who has paths or driveways on nearly your entire boundary, relying on that is prob. Preferable.

This is all a bit creepy. I lurve the "don't worry, they are synthetic" disclaimer. I have another theory where the arm came from, but that is unmentionable on a family forum. F

Two side notes. 1 - It has similarities (but is more complex) to "rent a boiler", which is something that has been around in the small LL market for some time. 2 - With a RHI there is a similar feel to "rent a roof" solar - and I expect that the mentioned issue with resales is a very real one. I looked into buying a rentaroof solar house in the expectation that there would be a "buggeration discount" (I would have offered 10% below one without it, and also taken most of the buyout charges off), and there would have been, as there would be another contract involved (admin charges?), and the solar supplier said that to buy them out would basically be a roll-up of all the future subsidies. The upside is if the ASHP is going to last a lot longer than 7 years. It may be acceptable, but needs careful planning on your part imo, and a toothcomb applied to the contract. Ferdinand

Dad used to buy acetone by the gallon when he was doing fibreglass columns and specials. It was used to clean non-set (ie the raw material) resin off my school uniform when I brushed up against the wrong thing by mistake so I would test it before trying on stone resin, though should be OK but I would not leave it sitting on it for long. Steel should be fine unless it affects the coat. Might be sensible to wear surgical gloves, though I did not used to and I am still here. Very good accelerent for bonfires, as is set resin (but that puts out as much smoke as diesel iirc). ==> well-ventialed area. Evaporates quite quickly, so feels cold on your skin. It should remove supergue residue. F

Those electric wall-hanging pseudo stoves are quite acceptable imo. Or go against tired convention and put something else there - interesting sculpture, long lasting plant arrangement, or rotate it like the Fourth Plinth. A mirror at the back works well. Perhaps with some nice candles in front? Ideas here: https://www.housebeautiful.com/design-inspiration/home-makeovers/g2260/non-working-fireplace-ideas/ Ferdinand

Cheers. I think the one I have is actually a closet.

Good qu. Secondhand kitchens are available for peanuts off ebay, for example.

Onw way to approach this is to alight on what you will do towards the refurbishment of the main house (eg learn how to do skirtings and doors, or fit kitchens, or stud walls and insulation), and use the annexe as a way of learning or improving those skills. That is one way to get a focused set of skills yourself. (It is fun learning digging and groundwork) That will save you a segment of costs. And when you have worked out your changes, ask your supplier what you can change to make it easier for him to reduce costs costs. Change your scheme to make it better value or simpler; don't beat him over the head with a swagger stick as that will make him skimp. F

I spotted this inside a local cafe this week. Liquorice Allsort chic is not quite my taste, but the door is not as obvious as could be the case. It is an a sample of how to incorporate an element into a stronger pattern than the outline as a means to de-emphasise it. Here it could have been further concealed by choosing a different handle, or concealed hinges. It could also have been made full height.

Couldn't resist - sorry. Our family has a thing about noticing them. ???

Welcome @RenoNewb We also really need an indication of what standard finishes you have specified (basic, normal, posh - eg for doors eggcrate, wood veneer, solid wood), and a sketch plan if you have one. Your quote does not seem to include a ventilation system, or floor finishes above the screed eg tiles. For the whole thing, fitting OK quality tiles (£10-£20 per sqm) throughout on your screed would add £2-2.5k-ish. My initial impression is that the quote is basically OK for a main contractor package which is that comprehensive, where you have given them the risk, and there is about 6-7k of work outside the annexe included, and they have to allow for things going wrong. I think you could salami slice perhaps 5-10%, but if you want to knock it down by say 25% you will need to take a more personal detailed interest and accept some of the risk back. Expect to spend 100-200 hours of your time on resourcing it in this case, and doing things like sourcing and rubbish disposal. Much of the saving would be in you ferreting out stuff less expensively that they just buy in as there is no incentive for them to work at saving a few £££ here and there in a fixed price. Obvs your other quotes will be key docs to compare. What are the odds that the next one is £57k ? Looks a great place to be. Ferdinand

Just to drive that home with a Baseball Bat. You have taken on the role of Project Manager. A Professional doing that on your build would be charging you 20-30k. At £250-300 per day that is 80-100 days or 600-900 hours. ie 5-6 months full time. Your equivalent in 3 hour evenings plus half of Sat & Sun, assuming you are 2/3 as efficient, is more like 500 evenings and afternoons. Just on the Project Management, and not including anything you do towards designing it, getting the specialist knowledge to PM a build, or actiually building it ! My point is that for such a process you should not be surprised if planning to minimise your budget alone costs you 60-100 evenings in time spent, and if you save yourself say 10-20% it will be worth it. That is normal, so don't worry that it is too much. It is just that many of us don't add all the 2 hours here, and 3 hours there, that we spend on PM, and realise that it adds up to a helluvalot. We just think we are going 25% or 30% slower than we expected, and start worrying. You do not need to worry about taking extra time; you only need to worry if you get 40% of the way through and realise you have spent 60% of the money, then go ........ "oooooooooooh, sheeeeeeeeeeet !". My other tip for this bit is to get a specific office area, and at least a half decent filing system, including an archive set up so you can find things again later. Ferdinand

Weren't you planning to camouflage the door to this, @recoveringacademic? Another Example, by making the wall stripey. Male it full height and it would be completely hidden.

THe actual report .. not linked from the article .. is here. https://eciu.net/assets/Reports/ECIU_Zero_Carbon_Homes.pdf Personally I think it is too much of a "back of the envelope memo" created in a couple of hours to get media attention. Interested in others' comments, though. Ferdinand

The extension 3 count as new build, the other 3 are conversion, as they're part of the original house. I'm uncertain of the numbers I need to achieve for either, but I'm also not confident in the architect. I'd say you need to know that, otherwise they may fall foul of the Regulations for rentals. I work to a C for new refurbs, ideally a B. Ferdinand

The photo Is a fake. He's really called Hyacinth, loves knitting, and is aged 73.

I work on longish hours for the ufh to be on, and have boosted the flow temperature for the winter, and also sometimes switch it to always-on in the cold snap. Ferdinand

Welcome, Bob. Ferdinand

What is the actual SAP number you need to achieve (it sounds as if your architect is trying to scrape a minimum)? If the SAP chap is useless, then I would check it - as you are wisely doing. Does your extension count as a newbuild or an extension, since each flat is a separate dwelling? The required standards are different. Which set of values applies, and have they done it correctly? And you will have to decide whether your solar will be MCS-accredited or not. Cost difference of 1-2k, there. Which way do the solar panels face? Are they actually useful? This is a bit a red flag, as use of solar PV has long been a way to boost your EPC number when the basic house is not good enough. Agree that the best way is not to have it, esp. if there is no real benefit. As a LL myself, I would be concerned with panel heaters in a rental which is not built to high standards. Providing inexpensive running costs is imo the best way to keep tenants for years and years and years, especially as Change of Tenant costs continue to become more onerous over time. Ferdinand

(Self-censored)

Does anyone have suggestion as to pros or cons for the Building Regs route to follow on a fairly straightforward loft conversion. I plan to keep the property, and it is a rental. I think I could go either route, but am thinking the full plans route as the prices are the same in this LPA, and I get lower risks of getting it wrong inadvertently. Cheers Ferdinand

I don't see how all these numbers mutually-reconcile, even before we start trying to decide whether they are possible or not, and what is necessary in order to make them possible - eg between employing subbies and doing the PM yourselves, or whether you have to get your dungarees on and start doing some of the labouring yourselves. I think a copy of SPONS would be a worthwhile purchase - one thing you need now is a good head-feel for what you can buy with how much, and what you can save by contributing yourself or calling in every favour you have ever been owed. My take: I think £1500 per sqm in Oxon is a low cost if you are doing a self-build without doing significant work yourself. Others may clarify. All costs are ballpark. As you go through your build it just gets to be a smaller ballpark. That's trite - but it says do not commit to so many specifics in advance (eg pre-buying a 5k cooker) that you cannot cover possible variance in the later stages. Sufficient thought experiments are worth their weight in gold. My general opinion is that on average it should be possible to save 20-25% over initial costings without compromising cost or quality too much, or by finding an alternative item or strategy that will be acceptable. Obvs that is a general rule, but set you target high. 15-20% is what your minimum self-build contingency should be anyway. That can be reduced progressively in amount if not in precentage, as finish costs are more predictable than "what's under this soil" costs, but most people will have lots of gold plating they will want to spend it on anyway. Work through some of the thorough cost saving examples that have been done here. One or two people have threads with real detail. You need to know where you stand, and how you will get it to move-in point even if it goes 20% over and you have a shell which still has concrete floors, and only one sink on a batten. Here is @Visti's thread where he did that for his build at Gravenhill. Ferdinand