Mattg4321

I would seek guidance from Electrium on that one to be honest. I expect they may well say no, they are not designed to be used in that way.

I wouldn’t do it personally and I suspect most electricians will say the same. Especially when you have another option as detailed above that should be fine subject to not overloading existing unit. (MCB from current unit, via RCD in separate enclosure). There’s a good article here explaining things. https://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/years/2021/87-september-2021/myth-busters-7-out-with-the-old-in-with-the-new/ This is probably the important bit. Why would any good electrician want to take that risk? “In summary, can you mix devices in distribution boards (including consumer units)? Yes, you can. But you need to seek assurance from the manufacturer of the original assembly that the devices will be compatible, or conduct your own study to ensure the requirements are met. In the words of BEAMA, ‘The installer has responsibility to act “with due care”. If this is not done then there is a probability that, in the event of death, injury, fire or other damage, the installer would be accountable under Health and Safety legislation.’”

If you have a Crabtree starbreaker board you are very limited in options. You won’t be able to put a Type B or Type F RCD in there. Or it is at least very unlikely. If you need a din mounted meter that may not fit either. They don’t have a totally standard din rail due to the pin busbar system. Great units though, I’d fit them all the time except for the price.

‘If’ Vaillant say Type B RCD must be fitted, then that’s what you will have to do. If you can get away with Type F, then great, but that will be stipulated by them. Why not call their technical support on Monday? Either way, that type F RCD may not fit easily in your consumer unit, there are a few things to consider. Do you have a Hager consumer unit, because manufacturers equipment shouldn’t be mixed? Do you have enough space for the RCD and an MCB? How will you provide power to the RCD, will you need to buy flexible links to connect to the main switch - will they even fit in the terminal maintaining a suitable connection? If I was the installer I’d likely rather fit a new consumer unit too I think. It saves opening a potential can of worms. Not to say it definitely couldn’t be fitted in your existing though, but more information is needed.

No idea whether or not it’s required to fit Type B RCD, but if it is (call Vaillant and ask?) then they are not available to fit into a standard consumer unit in general. You will have to fit a separate board/enclosure. Type AC RCD mentioned above. I wouldn’t fit these anymore and they have anyway been almost phased out. Type A is pretty much minimum standard installed and cost no more really.

That’s only one group of scientists though. There are dissenters, some of whom are/were professors at Ivy League colleges/nobel prize winners etc, maybe they could be correct. The general consensus during the covid pandemic wasn’t exactly always correct, some of the dissenters have probably been proven correct, or at least closer to the mark than some of the ‘accepted consensus’ scientists

What did they write about that we’re currently facing? Why is the outlook bleak/why have we lost hope as a ‘race’ (species?). Not gotcha questions, just interested in your viewpoint, and looking for positives. Global population is probably as prosperous as it has ever been currently. Not something to be demoralised about it. A great achievement. The number of deaths due to extreme weather events has reduced over the past 100 years, despite rising temperatures - perhaps even because of them? Less people die from extreme heat, than cold. We can adapt to rising temperatures, as we did last time temperatures rose to the levels predicted by the IPCC. I won’t say it doesn’t worry me, but in comparison to air quality, water quality, geopolitical risk and cultural change brought about by many things, including social media, I have to say rising temperatures concerns me less. Maybe I’m being ignorant and don’t understand the risk of some tipping point event - but from what I can see the IPCC is not really committing to that sort of scenario, other than some sort of social/political unrest event, caused by water/food shortages etc. Seems to me that they’re doing a good job of risking that scenario without climate change, more due to their hare brained ideas being imposed on us.

Along with the vast majority of people, I'm no scientist. I can only walk out of the door in the morning and know what the weather is like outside my front door. I've not noticed a difference in my lifetime, but it's hardly scientific. The problem I have with it, is that scientists are clearly under enormous pressure to agree with the climate change narrative - very similar to what happened with the covid/lockdowns/masks narratives. As a layperson how am I meant to choose whether to believe the authorities (who are inept and constantly lie) and a large group of very well credentialed scientists, or a smaller group of apparently very well credentialed scientists who disagree. It's notable that these guys are often quite senior and close to retirement so may not care if they are ostracised? History is littered with mistakes caused by group think, maybe we are making another by expending vast resources trying to reduce carbon dioxide, which is generally harmless to health? I got sent this video and it's quite persuasive, but I'm not qualified to make a decision on whether or not to believe it.

Probably ‘ghost voltage’ being induced from other circuits the cabling for your circuit runs alongside. Impossible to say for sure without looking at it though

Flexi ducting for the shortest length possible onto solid ducting

Sounds about right to me.

Not too many! Those bits start to lose their edge after only a few holes ime.

It’s easy enough to diy a guide out of an offcut of thin timber. Drill a 22mm hole in it and hold it (or get someone else to hold it) firmly in place whilst you get started with the diamond bit.

Anyone can complete and sign an Electrical Installation Certificate as per the sample ones in BS7671. You may get building control accept this. However, you can only get a electrical certificate of compliance (part p) if you are registered with the likes of napit or niceic for self certification, or if you get someone who is to 3rd party sign you off, or if you pay LABC something like £600 to send someone out to inspect. Sample of this is below, which is what octopus apparently need, along with the BS7671 Electrical Installation Certificate and DNO approval.

I can't think of any regulation this would be against, assuming both cables were SWA. It's not ideal, as you could in theory get interference, but the reality is it will be absolutely fine over this distance in a domestic situation. If it's approved by BASEC that carries significant weight, as they are 'the' accreditation body for cable. EVUItra and other brands are in very widespread use now, it's nothing unusual. I've used it a load of times myself and never heard of anyone having problems specific to it.

It's what I've read in 2 or 3 places from people claiming to have signed up via this route. The electrical installation cert is a seperate piece of paper to the part p building control notification, Octopus want both.

Running them through the same duct whilst not ideal will work fine. Just make sure they’re pulled together and use at least external duct grade cat 6, if not swa. Look at EVUltra cable and that works with no ill effects.

I’m looking into this currently and am 99% sure the 3 things you need are DNO approval, part P building control notification and electrical installation certificate. People seem to be getting confused with the building control notification bit and thinking its related to the roof structure, but it’s actually the part p notification. It’s £250, with £150 being refunded if they reject you. At 15p a unit exported, if you have a good amount of excess generation that you can’t self consume it should pay back quite quickly depending how much exactly you’re sending to the grid for free.

I’m not saying this is right, but attached are the drawing I was sent by door company and what I’ve actually done. Their method wasn’t going to work for me as I’ve got block and beam floor, so there is no inner leaf where the doors are.

Those lights are 12 volts, they will need a power supply/driver fitting somewhere. If I'm understanding correctly, you probably need to listen to your sparks. Aside from the above problem, it's pretty poor practice to shove joints into the cavity, protected only by a layer of heat shrink. Hopefully you can find something else you like the look of.

From the Heatmiser manual. I’ve wired in hundreds of them. Pretty simple.

A single days job can hardly be called ‘big’. I guess it’s subjective though.

Not a big job, so just get it changed for one with SPD and RCBO’s

Definitely just drill that at an angle. Something I do all the time. I’d drill from out to in too. Much easier to repair inside than outside!

It’s always a bit of a problem figuring out how to keep outside lights in safe zones. Sometimes involving drilling at angles or adding extra sockets etc to form a new safe zone.