saveasteading

If the developer is one of the big companies, there is always resistance. One of the barriers is that they forget that they do not consider themselves contractors and try to blame someone down the line. In reality, their methods are usually to take all the soil off site and dump it. Then later they try to cover with as little real soil as they can get away with. Perhaps someone on here who has argued with developers before can point you in the most efficient direction. Letter to the CEO never does any harm. A story in the local press can work as it affects the perception of quality. Cynically, they will often offer a solution to one complainant on condition that they don't tell anyone else.

9. Horizontal cavity barrier [3] Short None 30 None E 30 From the underside 10. Vertical cavity barrier [3] Short None 30 None E 30 Each side separately That is from appendix 2A. This doesn't look very onerous. I think untreated timber (eg 2x2) would satisfy this as long as it filled the cavity, but would need proving, as there is a reluctance to believe it. Metal flashing certainly enough or a slice of rockwool. Testing with a blow torch or by putting on a fire is not a realistic test as a building fire takes time to catch and will vent out of the top.

Thanks Jamieled. I had just read that section and thought I was missing something.

Standard I think. Scary enough at low flows.

That might work if there was another source of waste heat, for example from a freezer room. The room would act as a plenum. Even then it would have to be more of an enclosure than a room so that the chilled air can be expelled. But that is really a commercial situation and not for a house, but even then is so complex that I have not seen it done. As ProDave says, it needs a lot of air, and free movement of that air. Have you stood next to a powerful ASHP? I recommend it to get a feel for the dynamics, then you won't consider a housing, or even a screen or a hedge. The fan has to draw in fresh air and get completely rid of the chilled air, otherwise it draws in the chilled air again and you don't get the energy you need. In my own opinion, many units are positioned too close to a wall, even tucked into a corner, where the chilled air can't get away properly.

Can I suggest that you go back to basics? The mesh is to keep out insects and other creatures. Therefore it only goes where required...mostly (or only) top and bottom. In reality there will be all sorts of gaps at every joint in the timber, but I don't think we worry about that. No such concern at cement board. Also the purpose of the fire stops is obv to stop fire spread between different areas of the building. Unless the rules have changed recently that does not require intumescent material everywhere. It is confused by the need for retaining ventilation but that is upwards only. Black Battens? Is this because the larch cladding is completely open and more like a trellis? In that case I don't think it needs either the fire block or the insect mesh. The building regulations are more a principle than doctrine in many cases. Therefore you simply have to justify your proposals. This means more work for your architect to save your money, and so you might have to press hard for it. However this is not cutting edge research and a 'expert' should be pleased to improve the design. When you explain the cost perhaps the architect will jump to it. I would like to read up more on this at some stage so it might as well be now. Can anyone point me straight to the clauses on the subject?

That sounds far too much. The fancy cavity barrier product costs about £3/m. Must be a very big house or a contractor who is either nervous of it or charging nicely for extras.

Sounds an expensive solution. A piling rig costs thousands to turn up and then so much per pile. A sketch would help a lot. Ouch. You will possibly pay dearly for the privilege of not listening to the people who do the work. Not all 'contractors' use shovels you know.

Ground source as in borehole depends completely on the ground composition. Do you know what is there?

I think this is a building reg's situation. You are changing the use of a part of the building and also the means of exit in case of fire. If not, then they will tell you that in response and send the fee back. As stated above you are best to have certification of the works for when you want to sell, and it keeps your insurance squeaky clean. The fee will not be high as there is no added floor area. Amateur drawings should suffice but do use a standard scale. Do NOT show any heating or you will have to add substantial insulation. I suggest you state, 'no space heating: local infrared heater to suit occasional use' There will be no need for foundations.

I wouldn't. But try to get rid of most dust on the surface, and wet it. Then try to force some mortar into all the surface and corners you can, before mass filling. If you keep the mortar on the dry side at first to see how it handles, it will then stay in place. but if too wet it will run and slump. You can either fill it flush and trowel smooth ot leave it shy, and later add a finish. Don't over worry.

Have only installed 3 from memory, and had no call-backs so presumably all ok. My inclination is to choose the simplest design, so air blower rather than rotating wheel. Having the blower in an adjacent chamber (not in the sludge make sense). Of course the tank works to some extent without the help of rotation or bubbles. I currently favour Marsh Industries, if you want to add them to your list. Very helpful tech advice too. The blower motor can be heard from very adjacent, but not from a couple of metres away. When you have an air pump in a fish tank it is the disturbance at the surface that allows oxygen to enter the water, (and the line of bubbles is for show)...is that the same principle for the sewage tank, or is it more simply, moving the sludge around?

OSB? What don't you like about plasterboard on studs? it is standard. 11mm OSB first then plasterboard will make the walls very strong indeed. I specified that once in a 'robust' school and it proved to be teenage boy proof.

How true. A successful project needs collaboration and that includes a good client. Not a soft one but a fair one. 1. Be clear 2. Be fair 3. Pay the bill in good time 4. Listen to suggestions and make clear decisions. 5. Don't stand for any nonsense, but use civil discussion not threats. The stress as a contractor with a difficult client can be immense. Some contractors chase the big chance and extra money, while others welcome having a choice of project and client.

Loving the new idea. But you are right it would get soggy, rot and disappear. On the same lines you could glue sand to the pipe, but it would be easier to roughen it with the sandpaper as your original suggestion. Whether it matters I don't know, but would do no harm. If you keep the mortar as dry as you can that it is still manageable, and push bits of brick into it when there is enough room it wil reduce shrinkage and o gap should appear. I think we all deserve a report and photo of the finished project.

No, it needs to be this, or another that mentions water repellent. https://www.knaufinsulation.co.uk/products/dritherm-cavity-slab-32 Could be. The pipe already bridges the cavity, so make sure it is level or sloping down a tad (outwards). Expanding spray foam is difficult to control and you have no idea what is happening out of sight, So put in the barrier the best you can and spray from both sides. If there are any tiny gaps the foam will probably start to penetrate and give up and expand the easy way...outwards. You will probably end up stuffing bits of mineral wool in as best you can until it looks about complete.

If you use cavity batt mineral wool it is designed to be waterproof so it can be left in place. ROCKWOOL Full Fill Cavity Batt Thermal Insulation 75mm - or Knauf Otherwise no, as it may get soggy then fall some where and wick water through.

Most of my experience is in steel buildings, but even I tend to propose other methods as soon as large clear spans are not important. In a normal house with normal rooms, the walls carry a lot of the load and allow timber to cope with the stresses. Also bear in mind that steel is not ideal for any shapes other than rectangles, and that you are dependent on local skills. Most builders only like what they are used to. Discuss with locals as your nearby builders may prefer to build traditionally, and that might save a lot of cost and give you more flexibility. For steel? Very quick construction and your works are then all in the dry. In some rural areas the planners will allow a steel building to look like one, and that can save money in aesthetic finishes.

Back to basics, and apologies if it is already explained. Are you intending to demolish the whole building and simply retain the footings and floor? If so are you constrained by the existing geometry?

5% is based on a standard 'basket' and does not include construction. It is 7% according to a superseded 'basket'. I think it is for 'things' that people buy all the time, like groceries, and fuel. On construction costs I established that , for example, there was more value in site control than in getting discounts. eg concrete where the digger goes too wide and deep and then it is filled with concrete, 5% discount and 20% waste. Ask them all where the risk is . They know some of the answers if asked about their own field. And then how to limit it If not shy, the same question can be asked of each of the designers and each of the trades. After all the roundings up and allowance for risk, the contractor puts 30% on top of the waste you are already paying for. You really can make huge savings (or the other way round, avoid excess cost) but it takes hard work, supervision and some skill. Someone has to allow for risk along the way, but the cost comes back to the client.

We are still being advised that our project will cost double to 2.5 times what we have allowed. So far we are on track. BUT this is with a whole lot of knowledge and serious project management, and a preparedness to keep looking for an alternative. Allow for outside design and project management, 'reliable' but bigger builders etc and it can easily double. everybody is right and also wrong. 30% contingency is just wrong. Prices are already high. But 30% overall margin is common enough

The difference being that in a normal loft conversion you are protecting the existing, finished house. No new-build houses have a complete enclosure to work within. Is yours effectively a new-build, or do you have to protect any sensitive internal finishes?

Firstly a declaration. I think gutters are a good thing, recognising that rain happens and is best got rid of efficiently. Also I don't like sedum roofs other than for appearance (from above?). Not 'green' not 'sustainable'. Practically though in your case. If water runs off an eaves onto a flat roof it makes a noise and wears out the surface, even steel. After the rainstorm, the roof drips for many hours. You will have sedum, so it will kill the plants and wash out the growing medium, then probably cause a blockage in the drainage channel and rwp. You are going to have to do maintenance every few months, especially of the concealed gutters. A matter of opinion perhaps but I also don't rate having downpipes running through the living room. The sound of running water may provide a 'connection to the outside world', but it is a worry for keeping clean and intact. It rains everywhere in the UK. In the areas that have more extreme downpours (west coast and SE England) the water will power off at an incredible rate and cause damage. I am interpolating from the drawing that there are also some valleys, which will concentrate the rain even more into spouts towards the middle of the roof. Gutters and external downpipes would be a great idea. You won't feature in Architects' Journal but your house will last longer and you can relax when it is raining.

Some insurance companies don't accept properties within a certain distance of the flood forecast, regardless of the height above. Shop around.

I think I used tile adhesive, and that allows a few mm adjustment. Otherwise self-levelling screed first. the floor should already have a membrane under it. I see there is a manhole. Yo need to keep that accessible. I would cut the insulation around and on that shape for access. Carpet tiles can be lifted, and then your boards too. Whatever insulation you do will be fairly pointless for energy saving as there is the metal door with gaps around. The floor insulation is for comfort and feel-good.