saveasteading

......they were often used in inappropriate ground and just don't work properly. Many installers didn't know/care and did it anywhere....they are gone. (I spoke to many of them about real projects, when i was learning...they all said yes. When I learnt of the importance of ground conditions i asked them all at an exhibition re a project on dense clay. Only one (of 5?) stated that it was not appropriate. Some good companies remain, tarnished by the others. It really should work well in the right conditions, esp with water movement underground. BUT our project is on deep sand, and GSHP still doesn't come out favourably compared with ASHP, as turning up with the boring equipment costs the same as the heat pump. In summary I think it is for big projects with ideal ground conditions.

Doing it for a client? No, don't take the risk. For yourself, go for it. Worst that could happen would be adhesion/colour change I reckon. Nobody dies.

Depends on the size and extent of the holes I would say. I would be inclined to make a stiff mix of mortar or just cement with SBR/Unibond in it as suggested above. But then I suggest it is a hands and knees job with a filing trowel. That way the stuff is pressed into the holes, and you clean the surface off as you go. For bigger holes, for example when lignite is in the concrete, I have used epoxy floor repair. That could be an option for you, but if the holes are miniscule you won't want the kind with sand mixed in.

2 issues we found Mains supply is a pain for retrofit outdoors. Haven't found a decent system that records continuously without having interconnected cables. We do have D-link cameras in and out doors, and they beep on our phones when there is movement or sound, but that includes insects and moving branches. That isnt great in the middle of the night on holiday. but might work for you. About £120 each, but needs electric cable. I looked at other systems but the star ratings from users seemed usually to be low.

What is on the other side of the wall? You say it is an outside wall, so could we have a photo please, even if you don't see any issues there. All the wall from ground to roof.

Check slipperiness and for abrasion. the hardness can vary massively. I guess you need very hard with a roughish surface. porcelain is potentially very slippy when wet too.

I was not being specific, just joining in the discussion on how much discrepancy might bother a planner.

I have used limestone tiling in a new bathroom, on both the floor and the shower walls. Very happy with it except that some tiles in the shower are looking darker because they have absorbed water. This shows more at the bottom, where most splashing occurs. Despite several coats of marble sealer, there must always be some tiny way in at grout, and then it is sealed in and takes several weeks non-use to return to normal.

That is a lot, so I would say don't push your luck. If no dimensions are stated then it would have to be within reasonable accuracy with scaling ('do not scale will not apply)

Great help thanks all. I am ok on the Engineering but sensitive about the application. Have done Building Regs apps; 100+ in England and 3 in Scotland (which were so much easier). I have learnt how different the authorities can be in how much detail they want, and whether they would rather stamp through the perfect design, or always want to show their authority. In the cases of drainage it just seems so vague about whether I apply to SEPA or let the LA do that. And for fire, are there written rules on risk and volume of water, or is it always 10m3 or up to the officer? For now I am taking the advice to allow 10m3 tank, and present a detailed drainage assessment to the LA.

I never found a planner who knew what, if anything, was the definition. Once or twice had heights queried by neighbours (there was nothing wrong) so had the discussions. 1. Don't cheat 2.. Don't worry about the odd 100mm as long as you can measure properly somwhere.

That is the plan, and my philosophy. the query was really that the size of the tank appears to be arbitrary. 6,000 litres is four fire engines worth and I would think enough for a modern conversion with compartmentation.. Therefore propose 6,000 and see what happens?? The jump to 10,000 is a lot, but I should probably take Mr Sole's advice........but they wont then ask for 15,000 I hope. Current plan is to build a tank underground (concrete, block and a liner if necessary), as does not affect the view or garden space. Also where proposed it could serve the neighbours' which I should mention. An underground tank also wins us 10m3 of sand which will find a use. Pond/ lagoon. This is not Aberdeenshire. That one fell through. There is no clay around, just sand and granite. Also, the rainfall is not high, and this summer even a lined pond would have likely dried out, so needed regular topping up. Plus the topography doesn't allow it, but you weren't to know that. Yes, I learned about puddling re canal projects in the Midlands. I have dug up and mixed and wetted and kneaded this sand and it just ends up as sand again. I think it is unusually pure sand, with a tiny bit of self-adhesion, and would have a decent value as quality fill. I take it you know of glacial deposits that are stickier, but working with ground made of sand it is a new material to me.

Thanks everyone. I have no problem stretching the report, as have all the info, and it is in my comfort zone.. Good to know the importance of this element. So whereas I was minimising the form filling and working calcs, I will give them it all. Best get busy. As to registering the sewage digester, I am thinking that is before use, not before permissions? But I can include a reference to it, ie I know have to do it. I am favouring Marsh Industries as have used their kit before. So I will include their technical drawings and spec too, so no loose ends.

Scottish Building Warrant, drainage, and SEPA No need to read further if this is of no interest as it is specific. (SEPA is Scottish eq of Environment Agency in England) I wish I could find the reference, but I think I saw that Highland Region say that they have delegated powers for soakaway approval, except that in some instances they send the proposal to SEPA. These circumstances were where there was too slow or too fast percolation, or any variation from the normal rules. Elsewhere though I have heard that we should be applying direct to SEPA asap. We have done the trial holes and percolation tests, and it is ideal, with probably 10m of sand and cobbles (Glacier deposits) before anything harder, and porosity of 17sec/mm. Rainwater will be sent 4 ways to spread the benefit, and waste water will go through a digester before a separate soakaway. There is a burn, but no need to outfall there, and in fact that would be bad for increasing flood risk. Can you advise please if we should apply to SEPA now, or let it go through the LA with the main application?

Thanks, didn't think of that! Perfect then.

Very smart, but for a perfect job should not the cut blocks be away from the opening jamb, , and only full or half blocks used there? ie small cuts are within the main area, as you do have on the alternate courses.

Yes it will 'be fading' but not much. Depends on the colour chosen as some fade worse than others (remember the old B and Q red that became pink?). Aluclad will be powder coated so fades less anyway, but still, lighter colours fade less. But, the fading will be most facing the sun, and consistent on each face so it would hardly be noticeabl for 20 + years. It is easy to repaint. Sometimes these exhibitors have to drag in anybody from the office who can smile and face the public. Better phone them and get the tech person if you have any concerns. There may be some other reason for pushing you to timber...some production issue perhaps.

Agreed. a layer of plywood on each side, with lots of ribbed nails or screws will make this into a diaphragm which will not distort. The main wall between the doors would benefit from the same construction. If you can fix the 2 together very stiffly (so that they don't have any chance of deflecting from each other) , that would be good too. Just screws near edges rather than the middle?

I agree, and especially like them for drainage lagoons. Witnessing the arrival of nature is fascinating. In our project though, a 10,000 litre pond, 1.5m deep would drain away in, I calculate, 2 hours. There is 10m of sand. And then we don't want to be breeding more midges.

Metal stairs clang unless very thick, even with carpet. Concrete stairs are very unforgiving to fix, so everything has to be exactly right. Plus, unless this was only one manufacturer, precast stairs are made to standard sizes, and they get tilted to fit. Then fixing rails is hard work. In a house, steel (if not wood) In a public building, concrete.

I genuinely thought the soldering was a factory fitting. The bends look effortless too. Anywhere near that good I have had 4 goes at. Shame to have to cover it with tiles.

I have but different building type , and the rules of process have changed. I am working on warrant application and trying to use plain language rather than too many references: I hope I am right. if i was the BCO I would prefer that. So in my case I am saying...clause 3.2 , not required , see this paper. in yours: is required, see this report, so am laying this product, and show the detail. No radon in Preston after all then.

Probably not worth researching or buying the documents. Radon barrier is not horribly expensive (it used to be, especially when provided by 'specialists'.) I think it is simply plastic that is dense enough to keep radon gas on the underside. £1/m2 from screwfix, compared to half that for normal dpm. I didn't realise it was that cheap, or I wouldn't have been so chuffed to find we were unaffected.

Do you think I should offer 'low' and wait to be told to do more. for example offer a 4000 litre tank and access to the stream, Or go straight in with 10,000 litre tank .....or will they still ask for more... I would always rather put in the perfect application and get straight approval, but am wary of officials always wanting to show their authority by asking for more. btw The fire stations are 10 and 13km away, which isn't too bad.

Really helpful thanks. Also agreed that having a supply for firefighting is sensible, but what volume is reasonable? I have now found that the 45,000 litres applies to Scottish non-domestic and flats in England. The English regs seem to be totally silent on any water for domestic use. The not-so-bad news is that an ugly big plastic tank will cost between £900 and £3,000 and I have to see why there is this difference. an underground one will likely cost much more. But I am thinking perhaps to build a block one underground. our ground is pure sand so is easy, 4m x 2m x 1.5m total size, and concrete slab with manhole cover over. Hollow blocks with bar and concrete fill, bitumen paint liner and even a fish pond liner. Going to cost £2,000 all-up perhaps, but low tech apart from the water retaining part. Our water is free and piped from a well, so filling is easy. And then we will have the only house around that has plenty of water, in case the fields go on fire. Just one more thing? we have a stream (saying 'burn' in this context might confuse). 80m away horizontally, 18m vertically. I am assuming the fire brigade cannot pump that far/high. Could build a sump so that all the water poured in in emergency. I reckon the flow is 50 litres/sec in the driest summer, and that is perhaps not enough.