saveasteading

Either it needs underpinning or it doesn't. Partial underpinning is an interesting idea, as you are undermining the building then trying to wedge it up tight again. It is rather a primitive process, and I always thought would cause a mm or 2 of drop. For the whole building evenly that wouldn't matter, esp as it is usually because the building has already moved. Not knowing the reason for the precaution, I wonder if there is another means of spreading the load away from the corner he is concerned about.

Up til now I had thought how easy it will be to stud internally up to the exiting roof trusses. An approximate cut length and a screw into the side and it is done. However, as it just occurred to me, 600cc is plenty for internal use, and it reduces material and labour costs, and also reduces the cold bridge of the timber and improves insulation How best to do this? So far I have only thought of fixing studs at 1200cc to the rafters then bridging between them close to the top (at a useful position), then fixing an in-between stud. More work, more wood. These studs will vary in height from 2.5m to 3.6m. This is the highest section. Studs probably 140 deep, to receive PIR, and for stiffness at this height. This is for the building warrant application, so isn't a terminal decision, but it would be nice not to need to change it.

Brilliant timing for this discussion. I am this very afternoon designing a section of our project in timber (partial demo and replacement). In ploughing thro the convoluted design guidelines I find the need to apply osb to the internal walls to use as buttresses, and there they are on the photo. Also the need for very heavy timber as lintels. C24 and min 80 thick, and that would increase for more snow or wind, and quadruple studs at the door openings (which I now know are called "cripples".) Can you tell me please, if not too much trouble The depth of the studs (and hence the insulation quilt) I am guessing that your osb being on the inside of the external walls is because the outer skin is the Gutex board as shown, which doesn't have the strength. Does that Gutex board get fixed as positioned, and then what outside it? Are these lintels a single piece of timber and what depth (Mine have to be increased to 220) I have another question arising but will open another topic rather than muscle in on this one.

Scary thought. And have the neighbours done it properly or just done it? Hence Engineer involved from early. Or if the neighbouring house has done this then forget it?

Correct if you can do it. But the north side intake is not going to help the south side heat build-up unless you can vent from that room. I have used this principle in very big sports halls, and it works by natural ventilation, bit in summer needs fans.

And be careful laying it down. Never on a corner or a surface that isn't flat. If it is real quartz then it has lots of planes of weakness.

Then he has probably bodged the whole thing. I had assumed this was a long-fitted toilet. The smell of blocked drains is distinctive and sort of sickening. Doesn't smell of poo but of swamps and festering stuff. My tongue is tingling with displeasure as I write this, so that may be a clue from the depths of my instincts.

What would the Egyptians have done? Firstly that trolley from b & q. secondly some rugs to slide it along or lay down without damage. thirdly lots of workers. If you have the last option all other issues are resolved.

I know Glasgow. Twice as many wet days as Edinburgh. The dear green place. Well positioned for when rainfall levels fall, and there is a water shortage in the SE. One thing that will not change is the height the sun goes in the sky. In most UK there is possible overheating in August, and a few days when it is as hot outdoors, and ventilation isn't the solution, until night time, when an air purge is useful. White or metallic blinds work fairly well....if they can be seen in a window, then that is some light being reflected back outside. 30% of 30% or so, but it all helps. as would some ventilation ....an opening window if that is not too old-fashioned.

So the hopper may be acting as a breather pipe. No windows near? so no problem.

Assuming the toilet waste pipes just disappear into the floor and it all works ok? What are the 2 pipes in the picture, into the hopper, draining?

Really the only way to control this solar gain properly is with shutters or other shades outside. In theory internal blinds and curtains don't work especially well as the sunlight has already entered the room. In practice of course they do work especially if you can use light colour to reflect some light back out, and enclose the space between glass and blind, so that some of the built up heat goes out, or at least stays there. The other solution that avoids air con cooling is simple ventilation. as long as it is cooler outside the temperature will be reduced. Air-con cooling shouldn't be necessary in Glasgow, and perhaps you can reduce the problem, and cost, these other ways.

Door locks are tricky and need decent tools as well as the knowledge. The knowledge is on youtube. But the first time will still be trcky. The tools are in the shops. For a one-off, I recommend getting a joiner.

That pic was from screwfix today . I used one about 4 years ago, because previous owners had left the chimney sitting on the ceiling. ie just removed up to the attic, and a new patch of ceiling in its place and a couple of wedges under the bricks. Building Inspector fine with it, but perhaps as changed. I think if the Engineer says that is ok then is ok. Best to leave the chimney breast in I say, and put some flowers or wine rack in the fireplace.

All very useful, and the test seem sensible enough. 1. I read that the second test requires a flow meter inside the flue. That can't be easy, esp as diy. 2. Have a superb wood burner in Spain that is available in UK, and am considering using in our Hieland hoose. But it has doubled in price on the way. Same model, E500 or £900. 3. In a new house there will be no air coming in to feed the fire unless we open the door, so a vent seems sensible anyway. I am thinking of bringing a pipe in from some distance and underground so that the air is prewarmed, then having a shuttered grille on it. I have no idea if there is a limit to the length of the pipe, or how quickly the heat from the ground will be lost and it becomes a waste of effort.

The chimney usually has to stay as it is an important element in supporting the building. If taking out a section, then the remainder above has to be supported. This is a standard procedure and there are special brackets to fix to support the brickwork above, It absolutely needs an Engineer, Building Control, and a decent builder (general, or bricklaying should do)

Making it dry and even warm, ie into a proper room would be expensive. If that is the worst it gets then you are lucky, and perhaps you can live with it. A small sump and an automatic pump (£100 incl pipes) will probably suffice if you want rid of it. Let's hope that forming the sump doesn't break a barrier and cause more water ingress. Unlikely but take it slowly But first, check if any outside pipes or surfaces are casting water in the direction of this wall. If so, change that as the priority.

Last time I wanted this, B and Q did it without a cutting charge. That size would go on the bus.

There is a wonderful product for this but it can be very expensive. I obtained some flood damaged material from the manufacturer and used it very successfully. Could not hear a sound from next door with baby, and the neighbours got the same benefit. Lead vinyl sheet, in roll form. The same as is used on radiologists' aprons and the flaps at luggage scanning. Hang it loose from ceiling to floor before building the stud and plasterboard and the density combined with looseness appears to kill all known sounds. We didn't attempt to seal it at the joints. What it costs I don't know, but they were considering selling for floor covering in flats, so perhaps not too bad. My contact doesn't appear to have a web presence. I see it by googling lead vinyl sheet. Got one huge price and several POA. Over to you if interested.

Did the neighbour modify the exiting planning permission or submit a new proposal? If the former, then that is effectively the project done. If the latter then the original permission is scuppered as no longer possible. (If he just built something different then he has a potential problem.) In either case it is possible to submit for a building on the now remaining land, as often as they like. Your argument will always be that the original permission was based on the specifics, which now cannot apply. However, a different officer might not agree with the previous ones who rejected the schemes, and you must make the same arguments every time, but now with precedents of previous rejections and the reasons.

Thanks. all useful. re local builders' merchants. For general info to reader about to start the journey.. I always try very hard to support the locals but it is hard work, and sometimes the prices are silly. It was explained to me by a family BM client, (who did not insist that we bought the materials from him!) Even the national companies buy in from other suppliers. eg timber from a timber mill/merchant, insulation from one of the nationals. You would think they could get it direct from the big manufacturers but it seems to be more of a closed shop than that. So for a very specialised material it is best from a specialised merchant. The local BM will usually specialise in one trade eg roofing, and they need to be competitive in that, and for small and mixed orders the convenience has a value. Also I understand that the little builder often has little buying power but needs a credit account for cash-flow. Hence an account at the nearest merchant is convenient, and the prices may not be the best, even with the standard 10% off. The BM cannot offer different rates to different customers. Another tip for those starting out in buying. Never mention a trade name for a product. If you ask for 'Celotex or similar' then Celotex is what will have the best price. If you ask for PIR insulation you will nearly always get a better quote using a less well known producer. They quote a figure and you wait, and a discount appears. Once I was quoted for 1,000m2 of insulation at 20% discount which became 75% in a few minutes. Ask the local BM if they want to match a price. They won't be embarrassed and sometimes it will work for both parties. Never be embarrassed to ask for a better price. Think what even 5% off a £400,000 project is worth. £20,000 just for asking every time. Now double it, and think that way throughout. In every big contractor's hq there are people called 'buyers' and that is all they do as it is a skill.

I see houses. The easy research is by speaking to the neighbours and asking where their water/elec comes from and where the drains go. if they aren't available or don't know. then walk up and down the road looking for iron or concrete covers for these services, and also cables flying in from elec and telephone. the adjacent filed is worth perhaps £10k an acre so logically is not expensive to buy a bit, and solve the drainage problem. But farmers don't like to part with land. If the field owner is the vendor then a small area might ease the sale, esp if explained that this is the only solution and anyone would want the same. Or wayleave as above mentioned. Soakaways must be 5m from a building and from a boundary, which sounds tight but might just work. If the field owner agrees formally then it can go nearer. That is where all the rain is going already, down the slope to the puddle. This is one of the easier tests. With figures you could press the point of needing land for soakaways or even a pond, which is often the best solution. For a quick test i wouldn't do the 2m hole first, but just dig the little hole below topsoil. It will be a decent indicator.

Don't tell us where it is, as these discussions come up in google searches. But can you indicate by words or sketch what size the site is and the topography?

Not necessarily at this early stage. Your lawyer knows what to ask and can make it conditional, and you can ask in principle to the agent if that will be acceptable How to judge the poss costs to you though, and allow in your offer is another matter. I know about these things and still get it wrong. Best estimate and a contingency. if you have the patience, you will eventually find someone at the water and electric companies who will help with the basics. formal enquiries don't cost a lot. Are there any important constraints in the OPP?

This is normal enough and is likely to be acceptable to the vendor. Your lawyer must advise though, not us. The only people who might not be cautious on this would soon be advised by their lawyers. ProDave's points must be examined urgently too, but can be in parallel with the legals and planning. Some of these have high potential costs and others can be deal breakers. My recent experience has been that vendors underplay the problems, and end up not selling. Then they continue to underplay these issues in the hope of a mug turning up. Your lawyer can ask these questions if the agent isn't being forthcoming, but you must check them out yourself To concentrate your mind: 1. You cannot build housing on badly contaminated land. (oil , asbestos, chemicals. Site cleaning is not a commercial option. ..deal breaker,....survey needed at a cost. 2. Cost between zero and many thousands depending on availability. You should not be dependent on the neighbour, but ask for permission to use it until own supply is in. 3. Is there power already? Allow £2k to take it back to site supply then later reconnect. If not then could be £5k to £20k. 4. If mains available (downhill!) then a drain run costing some thousands. If not then a minimum of £4k for pipes and treatment, rising a lot if the land doesn't suit. In worst case there is a small waterlogged site and it is impossible without storing and removal ....Thousands per annum. Get asking these questions right away. When they don't answer, (claiming not to know) they are probably concealing something. If they do answer, it might be true but check it out. You can also ask if there have been previous offers, now withdrawn and why? But let's hope all is good and none of these are problems...but there will still be costs. As an absolute minimum : 1-4 above will cost minimum zero + £500 + £2,000 + £3,000 I would guess. Plus any consultants you need to check these out. I have to say our Scottish lawyer was great and did not charge for these questions and issues on a site that fell through (for just these sort of reasons). She said this happens all the time, and it would be better for sellers to do these researches themselves.