saveasteading

We are putting in 10,000litres aove ground. This is not for misting/sprinkler but for hoses if the appliance arrives empty or runs out. We proposed the volume based on precedent, but the fire authority simply don't respond. A sprinkler will use much less water based on the flow rate and that they are supposed to only operate in the zone of the fire.

Can you explain please?

If its too cold for a few days per year, you just need to have it running for longer, run an old fashioned electric heater or woodburner briefly or put on a jumper. The cost will be a fraction of a secondary system and more reliable.

Sounds OK. The gas would have reached your barrier under pressure. Once it reaches your vent system it will only fill it under more of the same, then flow or dribble out to free air. Can't you just bring it above ground and put a hat over it?

A draught will speed the drying process. Slower drying minimises shrinkage cracking.

Do what the instructions say. The manufacturer knows the strength of the tank. A cable or strap will hold it down but could stress the tank and damage it. There used to be some tanks that said to strap it down. it isn't a secret. You could however strap it down while you pour the concrete. But use strap not a cable. Concrete choice? What do your instructions say?

If you want to discuss, please feel free, or pm. I must emphasise we are on sand that is almost like rock.

Don't just tick the box. This is radioactive gas that could build up in your house. It is necessary that the gas exits the vent rather than sit in the pipes. A continuous pipe with 2 vents will create a draught. Any outlet to air will allow pressure release, and the idea is for the pipe to be an easier route than any gap in the membrane. To keep the rain out there are hoods, or put on a 90° bend. But if a little rain gets in it might escape from a perforated pipe if used to collect gas.

Looks great. I must say I can't see that is different from well detailed and constructed plastisol coated steel. It's got my interest so I've looked up the website for PLX. Unfortunately its mostly waffle about Nordic steel and rapeseed oil.....so it seems to be galvanised steel with a ' sustainable outside coating and normal paint on the back. I'd welcome any info on what is actually so good about it. To be clear I am suspicious not anti. Zinc is very flexible. Some very special steel can be too..but rusts. And plastisol can be a problem if damaged. I've done 300,000m2 of cladding, lots if materials but never zinc simply through cost.

It has to be free to air and best to have a rain cap. Is there only one such? It is best to have one each end of a porous pipe under the building.

The builder can't zero rate at will. As your zero rate period seems to be completed, I reckon he is obliged to charge 20%.

People make mistakes. Sometimes ig is interpretation rather than errors. They anc you should try to resolve it in the most efficient way. You can't necessarily claim. If they had riginally designed it with the door and mist system then you would have paid for it at the time. If you have any claim it is only for the difference by doing it now.

Please tell.

Interesting. I'd put more wood treatment on those cut ends, however well they say it's treated.

I was meaning, how does the slab look? Cracks, texture?

Anything to report 2 months on?

No. The sealer is specifically a bonding barrier between the mdf and the finish paint. Pointless adding it now. Either remove your paint and start again with sealer, or see if it happens to be OK by luck. But it's likely to change appearance or flake off in time.

Yes. builder developers only want to demolish and build new, and it is obvious why. We saw similar buildings being allowed, perhaps encouraged, to fail, to permit demolition. Back to nerdy stuff. This photo is a good example of how much internal space is lost with the inner stud construction. The exposed stone is with the bco's blessing. Makes a change from all the white boxes he sees every day. Of course we will lose energy through that stone, but there is a complex formula trading off thermal efficiency with historic interest and character. In any case the thermal efficiency of a 600 thick stone wall in 3 skins is not hopeless.

Part of the plan. phase 2. Need somewhere to live first! The area is stunningly good for holidays. Good weather. Lots of golf courses, castles, beaches, canoeing, the Cairngorms. Airport 30 minutes.

Mostly the family there. I just sit in the SE and answer questions or we send money. I did design then physically do the drains, and redesign the foundations. Going up next week though.

It is astounding. Barley fields then north. Aurora borealis or sunsets.

A hole into heavy clay is typically 80m deep to get enough surface area to extract heat from. Even then it runs out of heat. Into sand with a flow of water to replenish the heat, they will be shallower. Into hot rock they will be harder to drill but there is plenty of heat. So the conditions affect the depth of drilling, and the number of bores required.

Have i heard right, that your power is all or mostly wind derived at 1/3 the cost but you are charged at the top rate as if gas or coal? The 2/3 is kept by your supplier?

300 deep ours. It had moved in a few areas due to rainwater erosion, in turn due to failure of gutters 1/4 came down, the rest is still on 300 deep footings. These arches are not symmetrical, but we did underpin the column as it takes so much load.

No. Very expensive unless on a flowing aquifer or hot rock.