saveasteading

It says on thr triflex spec that it suitable for sedum (not all systems are). So it shouldn't be that. I'd only say that leaks often originate elsewhere and migrate to a point which makes them drip. That leak point will usually be directly upslope from the drip. The eaves perhaps. Your leak is tiny, (a pinhole)so it may simply silt up and not recur, so don't rush into anything , stay calm with the roofer then note what he has said. Photograph the damp bit and record the position in distances from walls.

The osb shavings are layered to make the board and can pull straight off. If you glued 2 together perfectly it would become a thick sheet of osb but could still rip apart. I would absolutely only use plywood and would also want all those holds screwed into stud behind the wall. OR thick plywood screwed to the studs, then fix the holds to the board according to the manufacturer's instructions, which I would guess is with particular screws.

Bad wording.....sorry.....could be the end result. I'm not being specific about your case.

I'd run water for a bit too , in case it helps to seal any dry joints Check your test kit. we used the Horobin kit and all was ok, about 10 tests, and then it wasn't holding pressure. I can't remember what the problem was. One of the pipe junctions i think. Or it might have been the pump, and the clip next to it not engaging properly. We bought another kit at twice the price and it was fine. So for tomorrow, check the pipes, maybe seal with some gue. Then act out shock and amazement when it doesn't quite hold. I wonder if these £30 kits are often used more than 5 times, then lost in the back of a van. Also clean the drain plug, and flex the seal, and put more gue onto that. If it is one of the 'included' plastic ones costing about £4, they are not going to be as tough as the brass and rubber ones. When you look at it there are a lot of joints in the kit, probably more than in the pipe run. good luck. The BCO will probably be ok with any pressure holding.

I made exactly your argument on behalf of the Parish Council, with drawings of the turning circle proving that the applicant may be trapped in or out of their drive OR that 3 street spaces must go.. (It is the case that fire engines (remarkably small and maneuverable really) sometimes can't get along the street. Council accepted the argument. At appeal it went the other way, with the only justification really being that neighbours would have to sort it out ! The yellow line, and loss of perhaps 6 spaces, is always an end result. Might not make for comfortable living either, if the neighbours have to park elsewhere. But usually people wont park the car out of sight, so I don't know what happens next.

I find they don't have a lot of whims, and are necessarily bureaucratic and thick skinned. And not technically minded. Their interpretation of the local policy may vary though. Hence find policy and precedent and you are nearly there.

It is usually necessary to rebuild the footpath too, to a higher strength.

Can you just tile the area you need? If you use a plain, different looking tile then it will look deliberate, be easier to clean than plain concrete or compound. And will take an hour tops..

Exactly why other councillors are needed. This one is a bully, breaking the rules, with the clerk letting them away with it. That is a big subject, known as predeterination and can disqualify theuf input. It used to be a disualifiable offence but the government withdrew the complaints process....wonder why? Most parish councils cannot demand a committee meeting. It needs a District Councillor to do that. My pc got fibre internet into the community early, published a neighbourhood plan, has controlled development, stopped the kind if chairing you mentioned. And so on. OK so don't get involved. Very few do. But then let it go. It's democracy controlled by the bigger system and we can either partake or leave it to the powerful. Even attending as public can make them behave properly. But complaining here does nothing. Other than maybe make you feel better.

The councillors perhaps, but not the principle. There are elections every 4 years so you should stand next time.

A precis here: BBC News - The truth about heat pumps and the power needed to run them https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-66359093

But paint can craze, plaster can crumble, plasterboard can stain. As above, see what the manufacturer says. Some have optional back plates.

1m or 1.2 would be practical, because that is where your best scenario foundation depth would be. Have you dug any holes elsewhere? If so , describe in non technical terms.

that should say mbc clients. My big clumsy fingers on a small phone. sorry.

It is easier to be precise when not in a deep trench. This won't be deep.

..is beyond many groundworkers' abilities. For later of course, but you will have to check their abilities and understanding or 1. The pipes won't join. 2. It will be flat or uphill in areas and get blocked. Also be aware that height is lost at turns in inspection chambers. I think it is about 30mm but this could matter. This all needs thinking through now.

It is important that someone has responsibility for the design. You think it is mbc, but they haven't seen the ground or thd trees. Hence, perhaps, they rely on rafts. I suggest you read your proposed contract to see what the responsibilities and liabilities are. There are several loyal mbc blinds on here, so perhaps they can help. I can't really say any more than I have.

That's fine if your soil is low shrinkability. If it is clay, then there is an issue.....to be resolved by your professionals.

And how much lower than the floor is your final drainage connection?

Quite right, but the points above about levels are correct. Always build above ground level if you can. Not only does it reduce damp and flooding risks, but also allows gravity to be your friend, assisting flow rate and increasing drain depths. Can you raise the house or lower the external area?

10m isn't enough for an oak tree unless the foundations are deeper than standard, which presumably they were. I've answered the original question, as have others, but you are still asking. My opinion on this raft solution appears to annoy some people on here. Nobody wants to think their project is overdesigned. What I have learnt though is that the mbc package is exactly that, and the raft is part of the deal. Therefore it should be complete, not leaving ground reports and tree information to the customer. So I will only say, don't dabble. Mbc have an SE who is responsible. So tell them about the trees. If they won't answer then that flags a responsibility issue.

Ouch. 2 minutes is very little. Best have her recite it aloud to you.

I've done this a few times. The time disappears. I now write a statement precisely, in big type, practice and time it, then reduce it to 2.5 minutes. In the process of speaking to a big room, the deliberate speech slows it down. The chairman usually only allows the completion of a sentence after 3 minutes.

you are correct. I wasnt paying attention that it was eps. Normal cement board will be fine then black. Or maybe try a masonry paint direct on the eps? I've used it on osb when solvents in other paints have dissolved the binders. Try on an offcut You'd think a system like nudura would have resolved this.

It can be as few as 2 or 3. Also, if the local councillor asks for it to be discussed, called 'calling in'.