saveasteading

You're right. Buildings vary. A big block of flats of offices will likely have a service shaft for supplies in and waste out. With floors it can readily be serviced, the noise doesn't matter, and any leaks are relatively harmless. Unfortunately they create a fire risk when stops are omitted. I'm a philistine according to some architects. My design priority is to keep the weather out. Otherwise what is the building for? I don't like flat roofs or internal gutters. The liabilities if a roof leaks are potentially huge, and any professionals involved could be in trouble. The calculations for gutters and drains are not easy, then build quality needs attention. A diversion: prior to raac panels becoming a well known problem, there was strawboard. It also fails when wet, but really only when flat roofs or internal drains fail.

Good. But the airflow through that will be much faster than in 110mm. Water and air are fluids so it depends on layout, bends and so on. A smaller pipe with bends may not allow enough air in, and restrict the drainage flow. Hence 110mm avoids the need for calculations and proofs.

Gutters freeze and can block the outlets. Then it rains and water runs to the nearest escape, which I like to be overflowing to ground.

Errrm....no. I built about 250 such. The only ones with internal drains were where the client had an architect who insisted. They add a large element of leak risk at the gutters and downpipes. What warehouse or factory owner wants that? And the gutters might freeze. Plus there is the sound. Offices and leisure buildings don't want that, or leaks.

My main concern with these is the sharpness of the duct enclosure: the stainless steel box stuff. Some factory ends could easily slash a finger or a wrist. Then if the old one has been cut for any reason, it could also be nasty. Leather gloves recommended. Plus the old one will probably be filthy with fat, so dress and protect accordingly.

they have to be double the size of normal rads because the water is cooler than gas ch. they get in the way of furniture etc , and send heat up the the ceiling. ufh warms the feet and gives a good feeling of warmth for lower air temperatures. what is the plan for floor finish?

The ufh pipes are creating multiple thin points which may increase cracking...but having multiple tiny cracks is not a bad thing When you say polished, I hope you're not expecting a beautiful self- finish. Cracks are normal, but can be controlled 125 slab on 125 pir for me.

You should still bag any debris, for your own benefit. Wet it then it can be brushed up. Otherwise the dust could be the riskiest part of the whole operation.....not that you'd know for many years.

That's the way to do it. Expensive but a good job. It is not easily managed through walls and floors as it is wide and has a large radius, so needs thinking through. I once had to take it about 10m so provided additional insulation in the trench above it....no calculations, just because I could.

Didn't look great with a pile of turf at the base. To their credit though, they were experimenting with their own money: a lot of it.

Do you want to do it? who decided this was a good idea or necessary for approval? If you can show that it is the reverse of sustainable, for example, a few planners might listen to alternatives that are greener.

I don't like green roofs. Over-rated: see rants elsewhere. Also very heavy requiring a lot of structure. but will slide off a curved roof, as happened to this, among other dramas.

That is very heavy, especially when wet. Then it might snow. Have you thought about making your own RAAC /aircrete planks? Cement plus soapy water and a whisk.

Well i am impressed. I think I'd put some nails in, in case the glue deteriorates with time or temperature. I don't think there are any rules for garden shed strengths. Even so, I have delegated beam strength calculation for some decades so am not about to restart now. What's the worst load? 1m of snow or a person. Your 50kg load is good enough for me. The decking board will also act as a flange if fixed well enough. Now if you can get the materials cheap as seconds...you know the boards delivered with corners bashed that should be in a corner of the bm.

Except that you might run over them yourself. or a passing by car blame you. There are plastic bollards that pop up again, but people know that and drive over. Plastic pipe would work. if kept to trip height they would look ok i feel. they can be painted. and chevron tape an be applied. steel tube is very much cheaper than bought bollards, in either pipe, put flat or concrete at the top, using scrunched paper to hold it there. I favour timber posts though as they are replaceable, and this kind accepts a rail if you want.

You mean it leaks and falls apart but inexplicably adored by architects. As to centred. If not quite centred or in line, it looks like a mistake. A stud behind could also make the decision easier.

Yes, For several reasons. How is the panel secured to the floor?

If you were staying longer....strip and reroof. For 3 years , or 2 years after the work, you could overclad and the owner would still have the asbestos which will deter a lot of people. Maybe the landlord will contribute.

The cladding will curve naturally if you choose the right profile, but getting the rails right takes a bit of working out.

Yes. It's straight forward apart from not falling through. Spacers are fixed over the crowns, fixed to purlins. Then a shallow rail goes along that and then clad as normal. But....its easy into steel or timber but not into concrete purlins. There are gaps at the perimeter that need closing. Cheaper than all new but delaying the inevitable. Depends how bad it is. For a few sheets you can replace the sheet with fibre cement or fg to the same profile or simply plonk it over. For isolated leaks there is gunk you can paint over to seal the cracks. Or gunk paint the whole roof. Your local cladding supplier can advise on all the above. Farmers, you can be sure, do the cheapest even if short term. I'm sure there will be ads in farmers weekly....or say out loud next to your phone or hub.....repair leaking barn roof

And using R134a would be bad because...

You mean " can get" I hope. If I recall, for consultants, this is the reasonable skill and care to be expected from a person of their qualifications. Thus an architectural technician may have less liability than a chartered Architect. And a general builder perhaps less on the theory side, but more on the practical side. On many projects the risk would far outlay the fee. If every error and omission resulted in being sued, the insurance cover and consultants' rates would rise somewhat.

Boffins please tell me is there a reason against using this other substance? x how many cars? Why not?

Me too. When I was there the results were better. I don't know if "what number are you looking for" is an honest attempt at helping, but at least he knew a target and could report on the spot and look for an issue.