saveasteading

Exactly so can we stop worrying?

I would at least write a letter to planning, " as a courtesy," with plan, and ask them to advise if they needed any more information. f1/4 acre is a lot of water. In a newbuild situation, a pond is often ideal for holding rainwater. In open countryside it may be different as the rain may be percolating perfectly well, even to an aquifer. The advice I had on pond planting was not to. Just let nature take over. Also whether to line it or "puddle" the clay, the answer was no. If it dries out in summer that us again the natural cycle. May I ask what you want from a pond?

The soakaway for snakes isn't a big deal is it? Covering the trenches might be....but a plank for a ramp out again wouldn't be.

In this extreme, a wrong value. You would hope anyone responsible for such assessment would know to allow for the structure. Your point is good though. The u value for cladding is often by testing an area of panel between the supports. If that is what the commissioning manufacturer asks for, it is all that is done by the lab.

They had nothing more important to do either. I wonder if they considered that it takes longer for the heat to travel along the thread than the core. Then when the room cools down it has to travel back in again. Seriously, the code writers had to consider it for thoroughness. We don't. And if you can add more insulation elsewhere to compensate ( 0.1mm of pir?) then do it anyway.

Price is OK. I just worry that the report requires another set of visits, by themselves of course. I would ask them about the likelihood of that before committing. Doing it ASAP is good as it gives time for a plan. Even for an alternative survey if you don't like them.

Generally very good indeed. But one gable end had a complete split between roof overhang and wall, as if it had snapped there. A streak of glue (epoxy?) would close and fill it. The only other flaw was a lack of detail, eg boardng effects on the drawing were vague on the models. I guess you change line strengths if you know it is for a model.

I think they grow whatever you do. If not kept narrow as hedges they end up with the centre being a dark lifeless place.

Because without the first mm there wouldn't be any at all.

aren't they, by default, a bit damp?

But yet I don't believe it. It isn't complex theory that 2mm of eps won't make much difference. Comfort, yes. Warmer to the touch, yes. Significant heat barrier, no. So assuming the gun was used correctly and accurate (and same time of day etc) we are looking for another explanation, which may be interesting. Theory 1. the untreated wall was damp and the evaporation was making the surface cooler. The treated wall is sealed.

Sure it wasn't geo-membrane?

I'm told it is a resin, which I'd guess is not recyclable. Also told that it would have been a better quality in plastic, which is an option. Black would not be recyclable. others? No idea.

1. People like to think that what they have done/ bought/ supported has performed well. "That layer of insulation I put up makes a difference. Let's turn down the heating" 2. Perhaps the immediate effect of an adjacent wall being slightly warmer and less damp, makes a seated person feel more comfortable, and turn down the heating.

Yes. They rally want to grow wider though so this will be regular. do it soon, long before frosts, so it can grow shoots and harden them. or leave 'til spring.

Good news mostly then. He is correct to some extent. Silcone, along with cans of expanding foam, should only be issued to builders with a prescription from the building designer. However there are products that don't harden in the sun (UV)and so may work for much longer. If you can find a way of flashing over, as suggested, then so much the better. Photo please. Only buy stuff with a recognised brand name. Own brands (with some persuasive names) can be very variable. I have taken a liking to Everbuild. There is a big range and their spec sheets are clear. You'll be wanting uv resistant and permanently flexible. Everbuild appears to be owned by Sika. You are going to need the tiniest smear of it to fix the leak, but it is probably worth replacing it all at that area.

Cut them as a hedge, with a hedge cutter. Some branched may be thicker and need a lopper.

Agreed. this makes an enormous difference, and is easy and cost-effective. If it is big enough for a couple of people to get into, shut the door, and put on or off outdoor clothing, then it will work as a dock. Even cheaper would be just a door fixed outside, to operate like shutters. Perhaps a pair, that could be tucked against the wall when not needed.

I didn't know this was a possibility. Actual plastic models made overnight from the planning drawings, which were in 3d design. I saw and handled them today. 4 house types, 4 models.

Our, very definitely , former groundworker was adamant that the lines were away from the bubble so that you could line up the bubble with it for pipe gradients. All drains were to go in at this gradient regardless of what drawings might say. On the bubble as standard. "Off the bubble" for steep. This caused some expense , but it could have been a huge problem. We then did the bulk of drainage ourselves.

£124 ! Thd more sophisticated, the more likely to become inaccurate if dropped or stood on. Or can you confirm otherwise? Also it's something to keep to yourself or it will get damaged or disappear.

There was a man at ecobuild about 10 years ago, promoting nano paint. He had great claims for it. A single coat to the inside of walls and the heat particles couldn't escape. The gaps in the paint structure were so tiny that energy couldn't get through it. The world's energy problems would be resolved at a (brush) stroke by this paint, only available from him. I asked for technical backup and he gave me a leaflet that confirmed that some people thought it was great. There was "proof" by way of a radiator circuit with partial painting. The pipe with nano paint was much cooler ie insulated. I didn't work out why this seemed so good yet obviously couldn't be. Perhaps a bh boffin can enlighten me. If only! An instant upgrade for all old buildings.

I recall wallpaper made of eps or with a facing of it. It was good compared to nothing, in reducing condensation and to touch, if you were sitting next to it. On old solid walls we have always gone for an inner stud, then either an insulated board or insulate the new void, of both. You lose floor space of course but the comfort and fuel saving are probably more valuable.

Can we drop US word "curb" and use the British word " kerb" please? Kerbs are there to curb wheels going onto the pavement.

I suggest you let other matters and conspiracy lie for a day or so, and look at @Big Jimbo 's points carefully. Are they correct? Can you address them?