saveasteading

Can you explain more on the purpose of the flashing? Masonry is usually coursed to some extent. Is there a nearly horizontal bed of mortar you could flash into?

You could look into a pumped disposal system. There is a capital cost of course for a reception chamber with pump, then the length of pipe you need to reach the ditch or burn. But it doesn't need a fall or deeply excavated trenches so it may even out. They have a float valve so they only run occasionally. Another option might be a reed bed but research and negotiate before committing. It would obv be a very bad thing for nutrients to drain into a peat bog.

A lot of effort and good advice here, but silence from the original poster @john_smith93. I'm unfollowing.

As opposed to 140m2. Into the same ground! Any logic you know of to justify this? Mine, speculatively, is that 140m2 is stupidly excessive(*), being only 20% less than for cess tank effluent but nobody has bothered to test and change it...but that Graf have made a thing and tested it. (*) and from my enquiries is simply ignored by EA , BCO et al, and not done.

The cold lay stuff has very small stones, and the bitumen has a high solvent content which evaporates to let it harden. It is not very strong, especially against scrubbing or spinning wheels. The hot stuff has graded stone, like type 1, and is inherently stronger. The bitumen binder hardens in cooling, and glues the stones together. Cold lay for amateur (and council sometimes) patching of small areas. Hot for proper job.

Well spotted above. Yes @Gus Potter does this stuff. It will help to have a photo from outside. I wouldn't walk away yet.

To turn a garage into a man cave I would just insulate the floor. 25mm of pir o ee the slab and floor boards over. Your feet will feel warm, and that is the main issue. Then heating of yourself at your workstation by infra red

Search for litecast g12 and I see eps blocks. Search for litecast and I see concrete blocks...which did surprise me, as obv not light. @Canski please advise.

I've looked at litecast and see it is a pretty standard beam system to support concrete blocks. As such the screed isn't crucial to floor strength and bounce. (It would be crucial with a plank ststem). As such, if I had done this on my own house I'd fill the cracks with cement paste.

Is the floor suspended or ground-bearing?

Scots Law is fundamentally different to English Law.

Does the frame need a raft? Footings are usually much cheaper.

Here's one we did earlier. 4 timbers as a post. These need more fixing to form a solid post, or one will take all the load and bend, so we will bolt them together.

Thinking further. It is common for a LA to stipulate a row of cobbles between a private drive and the highway.

First I'd ask the contactor what they think about it. Prediction....its normal. Then see thd delivery tickets. What's underneath determines whether this is a problem or inconvenience.

When we laid tarmac, our groundworker always brought along one particular mate and put him in charge. He barrowed and shovelled along with the rest but clearly had some particular skill....I think estimating how much it would compact. I mean...don't assume it is easy.

They probably added water to keep it fluid. That then evaporates leaving the equivalent amount of aero type voids and weakness. I don't know the product. But ready-mixed suppliers will require a signature on the ticket before adding water. ...because it is a bad thing. Did you buy it or your contractor? Either way, the delivery ticket will say. It isn't disastrous. This happens with all concrete in hot climates. Photo?

Overthinking. If it has wheels it isn't static. Also it is easily sold on at end of use. Plus if it happens to be in the way, it's easy to shift. They are very poorly insulated so allow lots of heating or jumpers. Ours was for living in. Brrrrr. But now will be sold to the next intrepid highland self builder.

It is probably bitumen from the flashing. Getting it off would need lots of solvent and probably still leave a stain. Do you plan to do anything else there that might cover it?

Take a trailer to the tarmac plant for a small quantity. Have it delivered for larger. But laying lots needs speed and skill. Phone the plant and they'll have advice. I found that they charge more for cash payments, because they can and there is plenty of that business.

I agree the use of a hard delineation as tarnac can be tamped against it. I would once have suggested precast concrete channels but they crack under heavy wheels. For light vehicles it could be ok. So I think your use of setts is wise because they can be reset if necessary. A strong bed is essential. Or, if it also aids drainage, use a channel drain system.

The door blocks access and fire escape. A sliding or folding (inside) door might be allowed. Or locate the door in the bedroom.

Our water supply is a piped, gravity trickle so we have a 3m3 tank and a pump which works at 3 bar. For domestic use. I'm sure there are lots of possibilities.

What have you tried? Can you describe it? Is it sticky / flexible / thick or thin?