ProDave
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Everything posted by ProDave
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I would stop the decking short of the grass, and put a strip of paving slabs or a soldier course of paving bricks to form the transition from deck to lawn.
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MVHR unit poorly installed options?
ProDave replied to tomds's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
With that set up, I would expect the extract runs from bathrooms to be full of water from condensation by now. -
Low profile concealed shower valve
ProDave replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Plan your drain runs in the main to run parallel with and between the joists. You can cut through the web of a JJI but you probably need to add a plywood gusset plate glued and screwed each side. Shower former sits straight on joists, you will need to add some strengthenig webs flush with the top pf the joists to properly support the former. Floor boards on top of joists up to former. This is exactly what I am doing except I have posi joists I can't see the drain issue being any different between a wet room former and a standard shower tray, unless you were planning to put the tray up on legs? -
Low profile concealed shower valve
ProDave replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
If suspended timber floor is the reason for not having a wet room, then nobody would have one upstairs, including me. -
Low profile concealed shower valve
ProDave replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
I doubt you will find anything 25mm deep, but something like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/aqualisa-aquavalve-609-built-in-riser-rail-thermostatic-mixer-shower-chrome/32030#product_additional_details_container reqires 60mm from the face of the tiles. Why not batten just this wall in 50mm battens? I doubt you will notice the room shrinking by 25mm? It will make running pipe easier as well (all walls where I need pipes are battened with 50mm) -
Yes the wood fibre board has a waterproof coating. It can be left exposed for a certain length of time, though not permanently. So a very worst case is replace the wood fibre board and re render if anything did happen. Even most timber frames rely on OSB or ply sheeting for the racking strength, so no different to SIPS if that gets wet and rotten. Most timber frames have te racking layer on the outside, but In my case it's mostly 2 layers of OSB on the inside of the frame structure so less likely to get saturated and rot if there was a leak.
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I don't know about Core Ten, but cor blimey at the price!!!!! £7.5K per square metre.
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Alternatively don't put any water in the pipes at all. My plumber friend leak tests pipework by pumping it up with air.
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Fill UFH pipes with inhibitor / antfreeze Assuming it's insulated under the slab and the walls and roof are insulated I can't see it getting cold enough to freeze anyway. Plenty up here leave the slab over winter with UFH pipes then build the house on the slab in the spring, and it never seems to come to harm.
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I have to respond to this thread as my house is "stucco" onto the timber frame, well sort of. If I am to believe the doomsayers in this thread then in 20 years there will be a soggy rotten mess behind my "stucco" I sincerely hope not. I am not expecting my render to crack, mainly due to part of the application process being to roll a sheet of fibreglass mesh into the wet render and trowel it in to bind the whole lot together. The poor detail in this instance as far as I could tell was no window cills, and the waterproofing membrane around the windows wrongly detailed so instead of water running off in front of the render with a proper cill and drip bead, it ran behind it and even behind the tyvek. Re wood windows Vs ali clad. Our previous house had wood windows. At 15 years old they are still sound and solid. My only objection to wooden windows is the need to re paint or varnish them regularly, which is why this time I have chosen ali clad. If the owner of that house had maintained the windows, they would have spotted the problems sooner and been able to fix them sooner and easier.
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Okay, that's that idea shelved. Before I posted this I thought I had found something saying mdpe was okay up to 60 degrees so thought 45 might be okay.
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There is a way round it. Move to the Highlands. I discharged all my planning conditions by email with the planning officer for no fee, and when completed got an email and letter to say all conditions were met. It's a shame some (most?) councils charge a fee, just because they can.
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I'm in a "use up left over material" phase at the moment. I have some left over 25mm mdpe water pipe. I am thinking it would nicely do the flow and return from the plant room to the Air Source heat pump. Any reason why not? Would it be happy with the "hot water" mode flow temp of 45 degrees? This would only be for the run from the plant room (above the garage) down through the garage, out and along the wall to the ASHP. It would only be at low pressure fed from a small header tank at the highest point of the plant room. Also thinking as it's slightly flexible, I probably won't need to bother with flexible sections of pipe which I would need if using say copper.
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I discounted a GSHP purely on the cost of the pipe and antifreeze to go in it, and decided on a much cheaper and easier option, an ASHP. And I had my own digger at the time so I could have laid the ground pipes myself.
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How do I dispose of ... ?
ProDave replied to Ferdinand's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
That reminds me of the argument my BIL had at the tip. The garden waste skip had a sign saying "1 vehicle, 1 bag" So when he dragged the 1 ton builders bag out of the back of his Landy and proceeded to empty it into the skip the guy came storming over but my BIL stood his ground insisting he did only have 1 bag of garden waste in his vehicle. -
About 6 square metres per room, less if you exclude what's under the bath and under a boxed in cupboard. So are we now saying that tanking kit direct on V5? My head is hurting keeping up with the conflicting ideas.
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If it makes any difference I have wet UFH under the floor deck. My favourite at the moment is 18mm OSB then 6mm ply, but am concerned at how to glue so it's solid.
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But the tanking membrane you linked to ear;ier, this one http://www.impeyshowers.com/waterguard says: Only 1mm thick with superior De-coupling properties of 10mm Economical and safe - no need to buy a additional decoupler If I have to fit something over the chipboard, then the aquapanel sounds a lot better, nice and solid. I just can't get it out of my head that 6mm ply is flimsy, and would only "work" in my mind if you clued it down with a 100% bed of adhesive like spreading tile adhesive over the floor to stick it 100% with no voids? Have I just been lucky with my old house, 17 years of tiles glued direct to chipboard with no issues? 18mm OSB and 6mm ply sounds the easiest but I can't get over my mind saying it has to be 100% glued or it will flex?
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I had the same, 5 supply points and 4 extracts, so I added an extract point from the plant room, thinking with the buffer tank in there it might get a bit warm.
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Both the bathroom and en-suite adjoin rooms with 22mm chipboard and then carpet. Keeping the overall thickness to close to 22mm plus tile thickness will give a near level transition. I am trying to make it as simple as possible so at the moment 22mm V5 and 6mm or 9mm ply sounds simplest, but what is such a thin bit of ply going to do? I still can't see what's wrong with the tanking membrane straight onto the 22mm V5? addinf a thin later of ply just seems to add a lot of glue and screws for no additional strength, and surely the tanking membrane is waterproof enough?
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Standard drain pipe does not have sealed joints. How many times have you seen the outlet blocked and water leaking from a joint further up? I would not want standard drain pipe inside my house under any circumstances. Perhaps convert to standard 110mm drain pipe for the inside run, at least the joints will be sealed.
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So my choices seem to be: 18mm OSB then 6mm aqua board, almost matches shower former thickness with shower former laid direct on joists (with additional supports) Or, 22mm V5 chipboard with 9mm ply laid on top. 9mm ply also laid on joists under shower former so they are both the same depth and to give additional support to the tray.
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So what's your recommendation? As Posi joists are a lot fatter than standard joists, the "gap" between joists is 500mm.
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I will have a total of 12 square metres for both rooms, a bit less of I miss out using aqua panel under the bath (that bit won't be tiled either) I take it you glue and screw it to the OSB (with a lot of screws)? Like you I'm planning to lay most of of the floor, leaving the boards that adjoin the shower tray loose to be cut to final size later.
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Sorry missread that. That's a possibility. Do you have a link to the Aquaboard you are suggesting? I googled it and it came up with Aquapanel but that's flippin expensive. Is that what you meant?
