ProDave

Glad you got it working. That kind of confirms @JSHarris theory that you need to edit every parameter in turn, even if you then edit it back to what it was previously.

Many of us on here have concluded that the RHI benefits the installer who charges an inflated price because "they can" as they are MCS or whatever) registered. Like others I have a self install sub £1000 (by a long way) ASHP and no RHI. Do some searching on the net and find some prices for those components. Then price say 5 man days to install it. You might end up shocked a how much extra they have quoted.

It was this discussion that led me to "started" Once I had satisfied the planners that I had complied with the pre comencement conditions they then advised me so in writing and asked that I notify them when I "started" and so I informed them when I started work on the site entrance and the replied the development had now started.

Hi and welcome. The plot we are building on had PP in 1980 but was never built on. So when we bought it we made an offer to buy it subject to PP and then submitted an outline planning application and as soon as that was passed the purchase proceeded. The think to check is that it still fits the requirements in your local plan, mine would pass 2 out of the 3 criteria for new houses in the countryside up here (it only needs to meet 1 of them) so I thought it was pretty safe but wanted to be absolutely sure. On the section where it asks for existing use of the land I put "former building plot having previously had planning permission but never built"

I have that same tester and mine works fine as do the crimpers that came with the kit. I use an ordinary decent pair of side cutters to strip the cable.

Ask your planners. In our case the first condition on the planning application was we must form the entrance from the road onto the plot. I confirmed with the council that once we had done that, they were satisfied we had "started" the development. It didn't matter to us as the actual house construction started comfortably within the time limit, but I just felt comfortable having that email ftom the planners acknowledging we had actually started as far as they were concerned. Can you do one of the minor things that are included like adding the skylight or moving the front door under a building notice?

For most rooms I fit warm white, but might fit something more white in the kitchen. 72 sounds like an awful lot. I have 9 in the kitchen, 4 in the hall, 6 in the utility room. 3 in each bathroom. That gives plenty of light. Then the other rooms, living room, bedrooms, landing etc will have a single feature light (light fittings yet to be chosen so just a BC pendant and 5W led lamp at the moment) I have always disliked flush downlights, but historically that has been the dislike of putting 300W or more of halogen lamps to light a kitchen. Only now that LED lamps have become better and cheaper do I find recessed downlights acceptable, but really only still for "work" areas like kitchens. I still prefer some kind of surface light fitting for bedrooms and living rooms. A quick count, if I put every light in the house on at the same time, it's 117W in total.

I don't know that particulat heat pump so the following is more general: Question 1, what water temperature are you demanding when the ASHP is heating the UFH? and are you feeding the UFH direct from the HP or through a buffer tank? Question 2: How are you storing hot water and what temperature is the hot water set for? Now some background: Heat pumps work better at low temperatures. Generally they should also be set up to heat space heating OR hot water, NEVER both at the same time. This is usually achieved for example with a diverter valve or two 2 port valves, NEVER a mid position valve. The way mine is set up is the unit mostly heats the under floor heating, but when the hot water tank thermostat calls for heat, it stops heating the UFH and switches over to heating the HW tank. The crucial thing is when heating UFH my heat pump is delivering water at 37 degrees. When heating the HW it heats that up to 48 degrees. My heat pump runs fine even sub zero when heating the UFH. When it is heating the hot water, it is working a lot harder and in sub zero outside temperature it can ice up, when that happens the heat pump reverse cycles to defrost, then continues. So in very cold weather it will take longer and use more electricity to heat the HW tank. Let us know the set temperatures and how the thing is plumbed and we can diagnose it a bit further. EDIT: Is it this one? https://www.daikin.co.uk/en_gb/product-group/air-to-water-heat-pump-high-temperature.html

How much do you currently spend on oil? I would be worried if my heating bill was £3K per year.

Looks a lot better than the bathroom I was wiring yesterday. 5mm tile gaps all round except the bottom row that had a 10mm gap.

Well I am the stick in the mud that has ran the UFH in our previous house direct from the oil boiler for the last 15 years without issue. And an UVC for hot water. I looked at thermal stores and while they sound a good idea, the big problem is as soon as you start drawing DHW the temperature in the tank starts to drop so the delivered HW temperature falls. So you need hotter water in the tank than you think and you will never be able to use the full capacity of the tank before it just gets too cold. Compared to an UVC that pretty well delivers it's full tank full at the same temperature until it runs out. Standing heat losses seem higher from a thermal store, largely I think because nobody seems to make a thermal store as well insulated as say a Telford stainless UVC.

Except mine is not a Burley, It's a Mendip stoves Churchill 5 convection model. SWMBO thought the Burley looked too small. The Churchill is only rated at 4.5KW so a small power stove for it's physically much larger size. Ducted primary and secondary air intake.

There is a limit of 4 bends in total for a flue system. Can it come out of the back and then turn rather than coming out of the top? In what way is it too far back? too tight for manufacturers clearances or just aesthetics?

There is the cheapskate option. Put a run of paving slabs parallel to and to the left of the path spaced so you drive one wheel onto the path and one onto the slabs. Instant cheap drive. If anyone asks, "Drive, what drive?"

I have already said that is temporary. That worktop and sink will be going to the utility room, that's why it is over length, as that's what is needed there. It will be replaced with a stone worktop in the kitchen with no overhang and complaint with clearance distances.

They do in Scotland, only PD if 100 metres from your boundary. Again it's the obsession with noise thing. I dare not mention to the planners my MVHR vents when on boost make more noise than the ASHP. Not an issue for a new build, just include it on your plans, but more red tape and costs if you want to retro fit one to an existing property.

How tall is the ASHP? something up to 1 metre tall is allowed in front of the building line usually.

No it's barely warm to the touch, quite safe. The rules say it has to remain 6cm from combustible materials but there is no way it is hot enough to do any harm. You have to box it in if pt passes through a loft, but not where it passes through a room.

I fear you might be right. It's the 3 times diameter to combustibles rule for single flue pipe. Easy to fix if I have to, insert an extra short section of twin wall above to push that twin to single wall adaptor down. I might leave that as the "fault" for BC to find and fix it then.

Move the pump so it is much further from the tank, so when it has cooled down and lost that bit of heat, it won't lose any more.

Yes, the flue cost more than the stove.

That might be a good solution.

The stove is a convection stove with baffle plates on the side and the back, it is rated for 100mm to combustibles at the back (I have 150mm) and 150nn to combustibles at the side (I have 200mm) The decor panel is just warm to the touch. The overhanging worktop is temporary, that worktop and sink will end up in the utility room (hence why it is left over length) and will be replaced with a stone worktop. I have fitted a metal plate under that worktop to protect it and it needs keeping en eye on, it would not pass building control like that.

yes, and should be piped as far away from the boiler as possible.

Which is what an automatic bypass valve is for.