ProDave

That must have changed recently then. In 2014 when /I did my planning application, an ashp was only permitted development if >100M from a boundary. Luckily I discovered that in time to include it on my plans.

The council sold the land to the developer. Perhaps they should have kept ownership of the bit around that tree then?

Also think about what might go UP between them, WBS flue? Stack pipe? etc. That will create "avoid" zones just to make things a bit more interesting,

You are doing a planning application for the extension anyway so include it on your plans, as we did (they still need PP in Scotland) No they are not noisy. I have said before the noisiest bit of my heating is one of the circulating pumps on one of the UFH manifolds. Length of pipework from ASHP to tanks is not an issue. Position your hot water tank closest to points of use to get the hot runs from tank to tap as short as possible, don't get fixated with trying to put it close to the heat pump. Do check carefully the install costs you are being quoted. As a sanity check get a non mcs company to also quote to install it and see how much difference there is. If you want to play the system, you want a poor EPC now to claim the RHI and then if the EPC gets better later on........ As alrady noted you need to understand the real heat input needed and size the sytem properly so the UFH can run at a low temperature and deliver enough heat.

I would not worry. If you are parking off road that is all they want. In our case it was stipulated that only the first 3 metres from the highway be surfaced in a sold material, we used just the base layer of tarmac for that. And we moved in with no doors, skirtings etc. We have a cardboard door on the bathroom.

That mvhr was either faulty or wrongly installed. There is a misconception that it recirculates air. It does not. Fresh air is draw in and enters all the "supply" rooms. Stale air is extracted from all the exhaust rooms. Inside the mvhr the 2 separate air streams pass through a heat exchanger so most of the (otherwise wasted) heat in the exhaust air gets put into the fresh supply air. If you were getting bad smells in the supply air, the heat exchanger was either faulty or wrongly fitted. I have ufh in suspended wooden floors and they are not bouncy. Again they were either built wrong or something has failed.

My thoughts are MVHR ducts tend to be put in ceilings. That is a very good place to introduce cool air for cooling, but a very bad place to introduce warm air for heating (which would work much better with near floor level ducts)

Some mvhr units contain an air to air heat pump, I believe Genvex is one such init mentioned on here from time to time.

Hi and welcome to the forum. You made a good choice, this is a fantastic place. I think there are 2 issues with an aircon unit. First they tend to be single room, so you would need several of them, and secondly they are usually split systems so you need them gassed on site with the refrigerant gas so no chance of being DIY installed. Many of us have fitted air source heat pumps and the monoblock type only have water flow, water return and some cables so don't "punch great holes in the air tight envelope" They work best with wet under floor heating, and can be used for cooling if you have a concrete slab or using a "fan coil unit" which blows out cold air in much the same way as an aircon unit.

I don't get why you are even discussing this extension idea? Have you admitted it was your error? If the supplier is liable they should solve it. If they think they can solve it by extending them, they should be making and fitting the extension pieces and certifying that it is structurally sound.

I put 100mm 0f insulation for soundproofing above the downstairs ceiling, because that's what it said on the building warrant drawings. I now wish I hadn't as of course that will also be thermal insulation. I wonder without it if more heat would permeate through the ceiling / floor above.

I had to insulate the joists around the perimiter. Another local self builder gave me several bags of all his insulation offcuts that I stuffed in the void. Miserable job but I was in no hurry so I just did a bit every now and then.

£299,950

Any thoughts on the ones from Bimble with the "degraded backing" This is their picture As I understand it, that backing material is supposed to be a continuous sheet. It appears to be cracking along either the individual panel joints, or the interconnecting tapes. They say the panels are still generating the expected power. Is it a matter of just doing something to seal it up to keep moisture out so prevent the panel degrading? If so what with?

I have a huge disrespect for ISO9000 because my observation was it had absolutely nothing to do with improving quality, it just produces a paper trail of tick boxes and arse covering so you can say "not my fault" I cringed when my last employer said thy were introducing it as I just knew it would take my job even further from design to meaningless paperwork for no practical benefit.

Here is another question you may not have thought about. Strongbacks. Generally any posi joist system over 4M span will have a strong back threaded through all the joists, think of it as the posi joist equivalent of noggins. How do you slot it in? With our timber frame, it was slotted in before the ring beam was installed. But you have solid walls. So you are probably going to temporarily have to stack all the joists tight together at one side of the building, slot the strongbacks in, then spread the joists out. Sorry to give you one more issue to address.

The trouble with the crazy competent persons schemes we have, virtually no electrician in the land will sign off work he has not done, so you are stuck with that electrician. A compromise might be suggest they concentrate on finishing the wiring and signing it off, and get someone else to finish the plumbing? Do you actually need building control sign off for the FIT? You will need the as built EPC but I would be asking the surveyor what is stopping that being issued now. Then you just need the paperwork for the FIT kit, not the whole house. I would bet if you have the paperwork in order, you could apply for the FIT even if it is not working. If the solar PV were to be connected by a different electrician, he could issue an EIC for that, without rubbing the other electrician up the wrong way too much.

Se my post at the end of this thread Managed properly there is no issue.

I would ask them for a detailed breakdown of how they arrive at that cost. As I say a friend near here had a LOT more work done on the HV network for £10K When you get that post the cost breakdown on here.

You are drip feeding us details. How many properties? Single or 3 phase supply requested? What rating (how many KVA) have you asked for or been offered? How far from the 3 phase overhead to your plot? Is that going to be overhead or underground? if so who is doing the digging? Is the 11KV overhead being altered in any way or just a transformer and your connection? It may well require an upgraded pole or twin poles for the transformer) 11Kv work will require a partial network shutdown, that is not done live.

£1500 is way too much unless you have a lot of bedrooms. Leave doors open to allow heat to flow upstairs by convection. Our house is perhaps a bit like yours. Whenever the bedrooms get down to 17 degrees we give the wood burning stove a blast with all the doors open to help get some heat upstairs.

Did you find a solution? If not how about this that just popped up in CPC's offers comic https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pel00550/13a-socket-remote-controlled-1/dp/PL1502507?ost=pl1502507&krypto=VmhK8VsP%2FAlNYDqoJUdgcNtLcm%2Bg9AE83IgIEN86EAZkAAEf0JJfc%2F7h5%2FunKIMXZ2Ztyb7jVhta1wquNKnsk5ZpNOgRpz%2FJMSbxdONiKWK8IhjGUgguocHlODWtw6sI9FfdG%2F96Yez0FgVljoVKhsOgc1D2a19I5I%2Bvxp%2BEbx9Tmier7F%2F%2FSTxZNdSn8xKv5%2FSG0xUgNq0C5CO4m6Z7fP8ZAdnLOYjo3EtKqxbjfYgRqOrInf7O8%2F9XbXDS4PzE4bi8E9R0kbdVb4R%2BxOD1dgRYQTVhR%2FHGn9zTLLddO0FARi1CPYjhAPXfsrBjbu24STsCVMs2lsnjfgjvQK1rs%2FMpcRLm%2BZE%2Fsu3vXvaRctLRWgUmJ%2Fvxucz%2B8n2JBmeisn62oldTg3qp9n8HExZTg4n2f%2FH75yAzWKeoiyN8x68MsWuxMkt3eJf0itDlz9134%2FcbkTFidy8JIOHdCrdSaw%3D%3D&ddkey=https%3Aen-CPC%2FCPC_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch Butcher the remote control so that a relay operated by your light switch operates the On and Off button contacts

Yes, but each gets used less so do not need cleaning as often.

Alternatively detach the hose from the washer and just get one the same but longer.

rather than a trestle, use a section of Kwikstage, Then you can have a handrail.