ProDave

If that is the case it is a badly designed valve as it will always reach that equilibrium, and only a swap for a different valve would fix it?

Where are you (which country, different regs) There are several aspects. First off space to build the house. Then you need about 2 square metres for the plant itself, BUT the big thing is there are building regs minimum distances from buildings, boundaries, roads, and watercourses. Then there is thw question where it will discharge to? A watercourse would be handy on a tight site. Otherwise you are foing to have to create an infiltration field that can be quite large, and that too comes with building regs limits how close it can go to boundaries etc. start by posting a site plan showing the proposed layout and we can work from there.

I used 20mm kingspan around the windows reveals. Sounds like you have it all planned well.

Looking very good. Are you planning an air tightness membrane and then a service void?

The only thing I can glean from the plan so far is it is an unusual layout / tight site (i.e not just a house in a row of houses) And without seeing where all the adjacent houses, gardens, garages and driveways fit, I could not suggest alterations.

You mention properties in front and below? I assume you are on a hill or the side of a hill. There are some more specific requirements about a property looking down onto another. Do you have a plan of the proposal to make things clearer?

I go back to the pump. I changed my other noisy one yesterday for a Wilo and the silence is bliss. Re low temperatures, I am running mine lower than the mixing valve is calibrated to go, but I found taking the knob off, rotating it a quarter turn on the splined shaft and putting it back enabled the valve to go to a lower temperature setting than it is quoted to do, though of course the temperature graduations on the knob are now even more a work of fiction.

The bit of the description that worries me is you are not seeing any flow on the flow meters on the manifold. You need someone that actually understands UFH to check it all out. Make a room call for heat, check the actuator(s) for that room are actually energised, check the UFH pump is on, check water is fowing, check the temperature of the water that is flowing. It is not rocket science but does require a slow careful methodical check through the system one stage at a time. A lot of "heating engineers" don't understand it if it's not an S plan or Y plan with radiators. Also look through the controller to see if it has registered any fault codes?

Various inverters have some form of data logging built in. At my last house we had a Sunny Boy inverter, but on spite of trying 2 laptops, and 2 different bluetooth adaptors on a desktop pc, I could never get the bluetooth connection to connect for more than a second or 2 at a time, so I gave up trying. The generation meter goes between the inverter and the consumer unit. That is the oficcial measure of what you generate, but the inverter will also record that.

Strictly speaking only the heater end. So take the existing heat resistant cable out of the wall switch and into the timer switch, then the new bit between the timer and the wall switch does not have to be heat resistant.

The Scotsmans way is the "tool-less" way. Push the tap a little to the right of centre. Hold it there. Reach up with your other hand and tighten the brass bit as tight as you can by hand. Then holding the brass bit, turn the tap back to centre to tighten it the last bit. It sometimes works,. don't blame me if it does not. I much prefer the taps with a solid copper "tail" far less likely to work loose.

So don't put it there. Put it a little higher.

No, I think 1200 is ridiculously low, I want them as high as allowed. In the good old days it was 53" to the bottom of the light switch.

Normally such a tank will be supplied with a pressure reducing valve set to 3 bar. Looking again at the photo I think that is the pressure reducing valve and over pressure relief all in one. It looks like it might have failed and needs replacing.

Unless you go for a wireless solution, you will need to decide where the immersion controller is going and then get a current measurement (probably from the consumer unit) to that point. In my case the incoming supply and thus easiest place to measure is out in the meter box. But I predicted that situation and I ran a spare length of 5 pair armoured telephone cable back to my comms / AV cupboard, and from there a CAT5 up to my plant room. That gives me 4 twisted pairs from the meter box to the plant room for my current transformers and a couple of spares. The one I already have connected seems to be working okay. The electricity meter chip is probably a better idea, that can still be hooked up to an arduino if that is what you are familiar with programming.

Yes the regs say max height for switch 1200mm Room height is 2400mm. What idiot builder decides it is a good idea to put all the dwangs (noggins) half way up? Quite a few I had to knock out and move a little higher to get the switches where I wanted them.

Yes my own is based on an Arduino. I am on the process or re vamping it to make it operate somewhat different to it's previous incarnation but am held up for a second current transformer, somewhere between China and the UK at the moment. I could do a write up when it is done as long as you all promise not to criticise my sloppy coding. As well as sending excess power to the immersion heater, it will have a simple (old fashioned) moving pointer meter to show import or export (half scale = 0, left of that importing, right of that, exporting) and will log the number of watt hours of power sent to the immersion heater. I also have it in mind that at some future date it could be expanding to control charge and discharge of a DIY battery storage system as one integrated system.

That looks like an over pressure relief valve. Can you see if that is discharging any water? In the UK we fit a Tundish that lets you clearly see if any water is exiting, Try turning the red knob. That is the "test" mechanism. If that is discharging, opening and closing it might stop it.

Bedroom 2 en-suite appears to be accessed from the landing? No familly bathroom upstairs unless Bed 2 en-suite is supposed to be it? What is the little room in the snug with it's name crossed out all about?

That just serves to highlight the carp housing stock we have that need to be heated in real time otherwise they go cold very quickly. The heat capacity and decrement delay in mine is such that if I only heated it in the daytime and turned the heating off in the evening, I would not notice. The more this "problem" is talked about, the more certain I am we need a modern equivalent of "slum clearance" where the oldest, worst housing stock is replaced en-mass with modern houses. And I don't just mean current mass market offerings, but proper low energy houses like several of us on here have built or are building.

I wonder why the headline focuses on gas hobs? Surely an "end to the gas boiler" would have been a better headline? No gas means no gas boiler more than it means no gas hob, and the boiler uses way more gas than the hob ever does. Has there been any mention of "no more bottled gas"?

I am a bit sensitive to the terminology as I was once wiring for a loft conversion and the architects drawings showed a cupboard in the loft saying "Boiler" So I wired for a boiler. When it arrived, the "boiler" was in fact a dual immersion heater off peak direct unvented hot water tank, which caused no end of inventiveness to come up with the wiring for it, as it was by then way too late to run more cables down to the consumer unit. Assuming you already have a switch on the wall for the immersion heater, just mount that on the wall next to it,and connect that timer between the switch and the heater element.

The vents that BPC supply come with a few little plastic curve shaped things. They are designed to be inserted as baffles if one side of the vent ends up very close to a wall.

I suspect most of these modern "expensive" cars are not owned, but leased. Ask yourself how many car adverts tell you how much the car is to BUY? not many. Most tell you how much it is per month, with a lot of very small print about the up front and end of lease charges to weasle more money out of you. I operate at the other end of the spectrum, that some call "bangernomics" I paid in full outright for my present car, a sum that equates to about a years rental of one of these modern things. It is just coming up to 2 years since I bought this car, so already it has cost me half the rental of a new one. I expect to own it for many more years, so it's cost will be a tiny fraction of leasing a new car. On the other hand, I don't suppose many people see me arrive and think "he must be rich"

Just to avoid confusion this is NOT a "boiler" it is a hot water tank. So you want to switch the immersion heater on and off at different times. so you want something like this https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTS900.html Make sure you get something rated to switch a 13A / 3KW immersion heater load, and not just an ordinary central heater programmer.