ProDave

Oddly enough I picked up a tip from a joiner today. Go to your local double glazing window company and ask to see their "graveyard" where all the wrong size / damaged / rejected windows are stacked up. Find one about the right size and start haggling. You can sometimes get a bargain.

I am just quietly ignoring them. Isn't there a lot of concern about spurious tripping?

Yes I did bend it. I have my dad's old Hilmor bender (he was a plumber) the bender is probably as old as me, I still have the imperial dies for it and remember him complaining at having to buy the metric set when I was still a boy. The only thing I wasn't sure having never tried it was can you bend a pipe 180 degrees, i,.e all the way round the die, and the answer is yes you can.

You seem to be basing it on 600mm worktops. How about using 900mm deep worktops, the sort of thing you use on an island? Would that give you the depth to stand a pc monitor?

Is this a new bung or an old one? If old the rubber may have hardened. Try smearing vasseline around all mating surfaces to help make an air tight seal.

Time to replace the lot with LED's? I was asked to replace all the fittings in our village hall after 2 Tridonic ballasts caught fire, one resulting in Trumpton attending.

Standard spark should be able to fix that. But if all 4 went out at the same time, highly unlikely to be simultaneous ballast failures?

Click Mode are my favourite. Schneider are also pretty good. Even Crabtree are still pretty good though their style may not excite. And I have not had any issues with Hager switches either.

Hi And welcome to the forum. I wonder with the 5 acres if that has any possibility of yielding the plot for the next build?

Hi and welcome to the forum. £1200 per square metre is the lower end, so you will need to be doing quite a lot yourself to achieve that. Which leads on to 7 months from breaking ground to completion is tight, very tight. I would suggest since you have the land, you look at a decent static caravan so you can live on site sooner, and have less pressure on a "must finish by" deadline.

The joists of attic trusses are not usually that rough, but agree it would be a lot of detailed taping to get right.

I would (temporarily) undo the screw he has inserted. Any leak then (air or water) will be obvious. If no leak put the screw back.

Yes the low loss header is the buffer. In case you don't have it here is the service manual http://www.solfex.co.uk/uploads/downloads/Installation_MFL62567801_8_130520.pdf What I want to know is, are there any cables connected to terminal block 2 , terminal 17? Oddly enough water pressure does not bother these units, I only run mine at about 0.5 bar.

It sounds like you have a buffer tank. Perhaps a tank cylinder stat in the buffer tank drives the "room thermostat" input. Is there any chance you could find this out for sure by taking the panels off the outside unit of the heat pump and look for something for me?

It's a long time since I have regarded that brand as a quality make. Screweys are usually good and will refund you.

Now you know the frustration of sailing in the UK. I am hoping to get my first Velux window in at the weekend. Now that really does need dry weather.

Well I found a bit of chrome plated copper pipe, and got two 180 degree bends in it on the Hilmor. So I should be good to go with this idea. Will post pictures when I do it, though it may not be for a couple of weeks.

Go back to first principles. Work out both dimensions of shed + walkway. That gives you a rectangle. On that rectangle you will place a shed that is smaller than the rectangle giving you the walkway along 2 sides. ALL you have to to is make a platform that size, and put a shed on it. It sounds like you forgot one of the walkways and have designed the platform to only have space for a walkway on one side and are now talking of adding that walkway on. Forget that, go and re design your platform to make it the correct size to start with. That might mean it now has a cantilever on two sides.

Okay, I would make the front of the shed face the house for the views and the sun, and then have a walkway along that front edge and wrapping around the shed so the walkway also goes along the side of the shed facing the stream. You might need to add to what you have already done as that will probably mean a bit more covered with deck.

You are over thinking it. Buy a standard garden cabin, the type that has double doors and iondows opening out onto a veranda that is on the cantilevered bit out over the stream. Lovely place to sit and enjoy the view etc. Then as a means to get into the building, cut another opening in the back and have a door in from the back of the cabin where it is high up level with the grass.

Same 2 fittings in Screwy's https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-adapting-female-coupler-15mm-x/76567 https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x/67110 And link them with a nicely formed bit of chrome pipe? That will be a challenge, can I get a 180 degree bend in one go on my Hilmor? I will have to try it with a bit of scrap pipe first.

It depends where in the UK you are prepared to live. Such places do come up from time to time. There was one up here that I mentioned at the time it was for sale. It was a wooden "shed" in a third of an acre of woodland. It was on sale for £60K. It had originally been built as a Forrestry commission office, and some time in the 1990's got planning for domestic habitation. It was in a pretty poor state of repair but the new owner had a lot of work done to refurbish it (I rewired it) and is now living in her cosy cabin in the woods. But to get something for that price you have to be prepared to be off the beaten track. Alternatively as building plots are relatively cheap up here, you could do what someone has done. He bought a plot with PP and is now living there in a Yurt. He seems to have litte real ambition of actually building a proper house in any hurry and seems happy in his Yurt. It will be interesting how long this goes on for before the planners start getting shirty about it.

Do you know how yours is configured? In particular are you using the "room thermostat" input? There are two ways you can run this unit. One is entirely from it's own control panel. In that case there is a room temperature probe built into that control panel and that would in effect be the room thermostat. If that is how you are using it, then this spurious input issue won't be your problem. The other way is as I use mine. I have the "room thermostat" input enabled. That is something you do at setup as you have to set a switch on one of the boards in the unit and it then uses this input, in my case from the under floor heating manifold to tell it when to do heating. I am pretty sure if the orange light is on all the time you are not using the room thermostat input, my orange light only comes on when the heating is calling for heat via the room thermostat input.

I have been asked to do a simple job for a friend. Swap a heated towel rail for a small radiator in their downstairs toilet. I want to do this without completely draining and refilling the entire heating system. These are the two existing valves on the towel rail: So the "plan" is to shut off both valves, remove the towel rail. Slacken the compression fittings and rotate the 2 existing valves on their pipes 90 degrees so they point outwards. This is the radiator, just a little wider than the existing towel rail So what I want is a pipe fitting, female thread to 15mm copper that will go onto the end of the existing valves (the bit that used to screw into the bottom of the towel rail) And a pipe fitting male thread to 15mm copper that will screw into the end of the radiator. Then join the 2 pipe fittings with a U shaped bit of copper pipe. This seems to me a whole lot easier than draining and re filling to alter the pipework before the radiator valves. Just a little unconventional. So what thread are these male and female thread to copper fittings that I need?

Ah yes, you jogged my memory. That was a separate issue. That was a design fault causing the heat pump to very briefly turn on when it was not commanded to be running, which then triggered the "10 second check for flow" only the spurious demand had gone by then, so there was no flow. So just to clarify. Does yours trip with CH14 when it is running and actually heating hot water or space heating? Or are you getting it tripping with CH14 when it is idle?