ProDave

Yes my one and only trip through Luxembourg was to get to the Moselle valley in Germany. I don't think I would personally install one in that situation. We are a very sparsely populated area here and all low rise. It might not be much fun for the people in the apartments behind you.

You didn't order from them did you?

Surely the flue must be a certain distance above the highest point of the roof. That may raise issues of ownership / rights to run up there? I like our WBS but I am not convinced they are a good idea in a built up area (which from what little I have seen most of Luxembourg is)

Don't let on you want it for a Yacht. The price will double. Yacht conjours up an image in most people's mind of a palace.

Not really. I was never clever enough to do a degree.

If laying pug mix in a timber floor it needs to be specified when sizing the joists for the extra dead load.

Which render system are you planning on the wood fibre board?

Perhaps I don't need to keep my HND notes any more then?

I gave up doing that when you look for something you know you have been keeping just in case, and you find a use for it just after you threw it away.

Re the doors dropping. That is probably also partly due to wrong fitting of that big glazed panel. We had a similar issue with a UPVC French door once. When the window company came back to fit it, they blamed the original installer for fitting the glass unit wrong. You need to pack and wedge the glass in a certain way so that all the weight is taken on the bottom corner at the hinge side and then packers at the top to stop it falling over if that makes sense. then it won't be putting much if any weight on the outer edge of the door. I suspect in your case that was not done and the weight of glass is causing the door to drop. Are those metal straps on the door a retro fit to try and address the problem? I would not be happy with those.

My compressor is of the same ilk. An early 1900's "Ben" compressor and the air reservoir from a lorry braking system.

Twas time to renew our line rental and broadband contract. Last time it was a battle and they ended up price matching the cheapest alternative I could find. This time, no messing, just offered to renew at the same price, but upgrade us to "broadband plus" which is just a better level of service. The SIM for my daughters mobile now has twice as much data. And as a parting gesture they are sending a prepaid mastercard pre loaded with £50. Makes a change not to have a battle.

We got a whole load of Banana boxes from the local supermarket. Warning they don't have a solid bottom (there is a hole in it) fine for books etc but if you want to put small stuff in, find any other old cardboard box and cut a patch to put in the bottom first. Very sturdy, all the same size and available for free in abundance.

It was sold to me by Howdens as an "Intumescent strip" Are you saying it is not? I think it is this one https://www.howdens.com/hardware/screws-and-ironmongery/door-furniture/door-closers/intumescent-fire-strip-21m-obj-sku-family-its0005 So the bottom line is I can plane the door so it almost touches the strip and the strip will expand to fill the gap in a fire?

Well my 433MHz transmitter module arrived from China today. Powering it up on the bench I see it consumes 5mA at 5V so I should be able to power it directly from an Arduino output that can source up to 40mA. I just need to wait for the receiver now which hopefully won't be long now.

It looks nothing like that. It's a fire door, door frame and intumescent strip all from Howdens. the strip sits in a groove in the door frame and the bit in the groove is plastic, but the bit that "presents" itself sticking out of the groove is a bit like a brush strip. I want the door to close easily (so a door close will shut it without problem) but I don't want there to be too much gap that BC fail it because it is not fire proof. So does the door have to touch the strip, or just come close?

I have option 1. with a little 2 port manifold upstairs. I have to say the heat output is less than the downstairs that uses pug mix between battens as the heat spreader medium.

Simple question: How much clearance is needed around an internal fire door for the intumescent seal? More detail. This is the door between our utility room and the garage. when I hung the door, it has always been a bit tight on the intumescent strip, needing a good slam to shut it. I doubt it would have closed with a door closer. So I was always planning to plane the door a bit. Now in the last few days the utility room has been plastered, and now with the humidity of the wet plaster that door now won't shut. So time to plane it. But the question is simply, does the door need to "brush" on the intumescent strip as it closes, or is the theory that the strip expands with heat to seal the gap. If so what gap is allowed? I'm worried about planing the door now and when it shrinks back to size being too loose.

This one, I replaced the pathetic relay (supplied as part of a package) with a much better rated contactor. And the plumber fitted an over pressure blow off valve to the accumulator that would just dump the water if the pressure went above 6 bar. (the accumulator was rated at 10 bar) I would have thought the over pressure relief valve should have been there to start with?

A private supply near here had that, the relay that switched the pump had welded shut, the pump just kept going. The Gauge was off the end of the scale, way over the rating of any of the pipe or the accumulator. They only knew something was wrong because all the taps in the house were letting water by.

No, you have that, plus the time it takes for any gain to exceed your personal CGT allowance, or two lots of personal CGT allowance if jointly owned.

I am happy to be proved wrong if you can show me where it says that. Everything I have seen on the subject they just take the purchase price and sale price and assume a linear gain throughout that period. you are only liable for CGT during the period is is not your PRR, but still based on that assumed linear growth in value.

The normal arrangement with E7 is to heat the tank with the bottom heater at night on the cheap rate, and have the top heater on a boost timer that you can turn on at any time if you have ran out of hot water.

Yes that old chestnut "soaks up heat in the summer and releases it in the winter" Anyone with any understanding of basic physics would soon work out just how much heat it would have to store and just how impossible that was. There was no insulation put behind the earth banked walls, and they made no mention of what if any insulation was put under the raised timber floor. The few views underneath showed none, and the time to fit it would be as you built it. Bery inlikely anyone crawled under later to insulate it from below.

Have a word with @pocster about walk on glazing.