Bungalowben

Members
  • Content Count

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Bungalowben

  • Rank
    New Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ah okay - no need for me to do that for the kitchen/diner/conservatory.
  2. Makes sense. What do you mean by tanked?
  3. Id like to do 6mm warm-up boards and then the low-profile boards with grooves/insulation. still unsure how it’ll perform though, and the trouble is you won’t know until it’s down, then it’s too late!
  4. Interesting - can you explain how the 50mm is made up please?
  5. Almost certain it has a vapour barrier under it (2 houses on my street have dug up to lay underfloor properly and had a barrier; all were built at the same time) but it doesn’t lap up. Floor is also bone dry. The kitchen floor and conservatory (which join the dining room) are extensions and both have vapour barriers which lap up. For the area, had a quote of £7.5k for digging up floor, 100mm celotex and laying UFH in screed. Seem fair/reasonable? Could keep costs down a lot by chopping it up myself, perhaps with rented kango or even a mini JCB type thing?
  6. Hi - I’ve asked this is another forum but have had limited feedback, so I thought I’d try here. I have a 1960 built bungalow with solid concrete floors. The floors are covered in asbestos tiles but, once removed (carefully and in line with HSE guidance) the concrete is in good condition and dry. I’d like to install wet UFH in my kitchen / diner which is approximately 34m2. On a rough calculation I need 18-20k BTU to heat it properly. We have a combi boiler which was installed in 2013 so should be okay for the job. I’d like to know how best to insulate the floor, whilst minimising build up and to avoid a big step into the lounge. Floor covering will be porcelain tiles. I appreciate that the two may be mutually exclusive, but in need of some advice.