ProDave

I have never used gap filling solvent as I have never tried joining two fittings that have a "gap" Perhaps someone else will explain why that is necessary?

When I was down south I used to as it was the only way I could stand the traffic. Except in snow and ice, then I had to gin and bear the traffic in my car. I also didn't have to pay the 5p toll on the bike.

The regulations on socket and switch heights refer to "general purpose" sockets. You can have a dedicated function socket at any height you like, e.g. the high up one for the tv.

Get building control to have a look and document anything they are not happy with and pass that to the builder.

A toy car with a limited use. 56 mile quoted range. I could not rely on that to get me to Inverness and back without stopping for a charge. VERY limited use for a second car, but NEVER a main car.

The clue is "Foundations as per S Engineers spec" You are expected to have a structural engineer look at the soil type, which will probably involve digging some test holes, and he will specify what is needed for your ground conditions.

Basin purchased today. Visited several bathroom showrooms that all seemed to have too many digits on the price tag. Ended up in B&Q who had this priced at £48. But they had a sale on so that was 20% off, and another 10% off for signing up for their club card brought it down to £34.56 That does not look a great deal different to the others we had seen with the decimal point one too many places to the right. Just got to order the tap, waste and trap now (B&Q did not have any tall taps nor chrome traps) The mockup now has the worktop height lowered a bit and the worktop made a bit deeper. That seems to work okay there with plenty of clearance from the wall / ceiling.

Shortly fitting the en-suite. It will have a counter top Basin. Underneath will be open shelving, so I will use a chrome waste and trap. This trap in all probability https://www.toolstation.com/bottle-trap-in-chrome-plated-brass/p85046 Here is a pretty picture of the trap The chrome pipe will pass through the back wall into a service void where it will join to solvent weld waste pipe to the drain stack. HOW do I join the chrome pipe to the solvent weld pipe? Preferably with an elbow fitting Is is as simple as an elbow compression fitting? Question 2: I will be using this waste https://www.toolstation.com/click-clac-1-14-chrome-plated-brass-basin-plug/p88739 I assume that trap will screw onto that waste? The description of the waste fitting confuses me by pointing me to a fitting you will need to connect it to waste pipe, but you would not normally connect a waste fitting directly to waste pipe without a trap so what is that all about?

Buying a VW Touran cured me of any belief that VW made good cars.

I thought a Trannie was a van made by ford.

There are several very similar treatment plants that work on the air blower principle. So as well as the BioPure, also look at the Conder (which I have) Vortex and Graff units. I take it you are discharging to a watercourse which you are no longer allowed to do with a basic septic tank?

Your electrician should be able to tell you when he connects stuff whether it is 2 phase (with the third missing) or 460V centre tapped (which is really single phase)

Well as most people under the age of 20 now listen to music on their smart phones, a 3" speaker probably sounds to them like the height of high fidelity.

Yes but "2 phase" is no use to man nor beast, you won't find any 3 phase machines. So what you have ordered is two single phase supplies. I will be interested to see how they meter this.

There should be an adjustment to set heating water temperature and DHW temperature separately.

DHW is heated to 48 degrees by the heat pump. That was found by experiment the hottest I could hold my hands in for washing up. I see no point having DHW that is too hot to touch. UFH runs a lot lower than that.

RYY suggests Red, Yellow, Yellow If it were 3 phase, old colours, it would be Red, Yellow, Blue or new colours Brown, Black Grey Did you want 3 phase? I have never heard of 2 phases being installed, unless you have a very high load I can't see the point.

You should build what you have planning permission for. If you build bigger you risk enforcement action which could mean you have to take it all down. If you want to go bigger, apply for planning for bigger.

You would normally get someone technical involved with applying for an electricity connection. The DNO's are very worried about high starting currents which will cause a dip in voltage ad the unit starts up. So they ask for this information. imho they are being too worried. It is only old design heat pumps or some of the cheaper ones that use Direct On Line starting and have these very high inrush currents. A modern inverter driven heat pump does not.

Choose an inverter driven heat pump. 1: is it's electrical input rating, less than 2kW for a 5kW heat pump for instance. 2: single phase unless you want something massive 3: Soft start inverter drive 4: starting current same as running current in 1: And pick a make and model that you might choose. Of course you might change your mind.

On the new build I am on I noted today, that the D2 pipe has 9 bends or elbows in it. 22mm pipe. That would reduce it's allowable length to just 1.8 metres. but it must be at least 6 metres long. What's the betting BC never notice. The plumber is not always right.

It was sadly such an incident that resulted in a child in bed, getting drenched with scalding water when the tank did burst, that led to the introduction of the safety cut outs.

A few people have mentioned these. As it happens I am wiring one at the moment. So I thought I would make a post about it. This is not my house and I did not choose it, so this is not a recommendation, just some facts and pictures that you may find interesting. It's going into a new build 3 bed semi, but the house is not built to a high standard. In the end the system was specified by the supplier as despite trying I could not get the owner to produce the SAP assessment that might have got a better system sizing. So it's a 12KW unit that has been supplied, complete with pre plumbed unvented hot water tank, and buffer tank. It will be driving radiators to heat the house throughout. So some pictures: the pre plumbed tank and buffer tank And the heat pump itself I must admit, I was not expecting it to have the fan on the top. That strikes me as a particularly odd design, as there is nothing to stop rain entering so it will be testing the IP rating of everything inside. Here is what's inside That's a particularly large circulating pump. It will be interesting to see how noisy that is. I do hope the plumbers will be using flexi hoses when they connect it. All the controls are inside a stainless steel box on the inside of the door As we have discussed before, this version is not inverter driven. It has a rated maximum current of 17A but they say to protect it with a C32 circuit breaker so they obviously expect a high start current. The controls could not be simpler. The HP just needs power and a volt free call for heat demand already provisioned for in the pre wired wiring centre. There are also pre made cables that have to be fed through, one for the programming unit, and one for a temperature probe that has to go in a pocket on the hot water tank. I will be back later this week or early next week to connect it once the outside unit has been put in place and to comission it when the plumbing is finished so more to follow.

I have never been a fan of combi boilers though plenty are happy with them. What people are suggesting to you is a "system boiler" that heats the heating and heats a hot water tank. The fact people are confusing you calling it an "immersion tank" While it does have an immersion heater, it is primarily heated by the boiler, so won't be any more expensive. An Unvented cylinder would be my choice so you get mains pressure hot water and the tank should be able to run more than one shower at a time (which I doubt a combi boiler would manage)

In the village i lived in down south one cottage by the river regularly flooded, but only to a few inches deep when the river came up. They had made it resilient by quarry tiling the entire ground floor including quarry tile skirtings. All electrics were well up the wall. The kitchen units were on taller than normal legs. When the flood came, the furniture went up on blocks and the kitchen kick boards came off. When the flood went down it was a case of mop out and put everything back. Due to the location the tenant had to wear a pair of waders to get in and out, sometimes even when the cottage was not flooded. Oh and remember to park his car further away.