ProDave

Reading between the lines you tried connecting it just with ptfe tape and it leaked? As above what is it connecting to? if it's a tap, it's probably the wrong fitting for instance.

Hi and welcome An interesting project that could be anywhere from easy to challenging.

Forget the UFH loop in the hall. In our previous house on the advice of the UFH designer we had a loop in the hall and one on the landing. The landing one NEVER came on, and the hall one only very rarely. Total waste of pipe and effort. Instead just space out all the pipes that are passing through the hall. That will be all the heating you want in the hall. Why no UFH in the bathrooms? It is really nice to have a warm floor in the bathrooms. If you can pass pipes under the internal walls you can get some much better pipe runs Why only go through doorways? I take it the room left of the kitchen is a pantry hence no UFH? I am surprised bed 1 needs 2 loops I would be tempted to make that just one, that is another less port on the manifold and less congention in that hall. In the kitchen, I can see why you want no heating under the units but I would pass the pipes to and from loops 1-10, 1-11 and 1-12 under that peninsular run of units just to save the congestion going around the units. Just insulate the short sections of pipe going under the units. And if those same runs could go through the "NO UFH" room (with insulation) then that gives them a very much more direct route to the manifold.

I am not convinced this is a wise idea. It will look great to start with. How long will the tv last? 10 years? Will you be able to repair it or get a replacement exactly the same size? By all means create a recess so you can mount a tv truly flat to the wall with space for all the cables and space to recess a bracket so the actual tv will be right flat against the wall, but I would not personally recess the tv completely. In any case the space you will need will be dictated by how the tv hangs on it's bracket and how much space you need to lift it on and off the bracket. Perhaps an over size hole with a surround that fits snug to the tv. Then if you have to change tv get one as close to the same size and just re make the surround piece?

Yes that is what I did.

I don't understand why it does not work. Door bell not pressed, light is on, sensor input should read high or on. Door bell button pressed, button shorts out LED, resistor in circuit now protects PSU from going into current limit and input should read low or off. Put a multimeter between ground and sensor input. What voltage does it read with the button not pressed? what voltage does it read with the button pressed?

I suspect the idea of the flat bit at the top of the ramp is so they can stop to unlock and open the door, without having to rely on brakes on the wheelchair to keep them there.

Several people have remote mounted their air pumps so I see no reason why you cannot with this one, even if the manufacturer says no.

Do you know anyone in a wheelchair? One forum member when designing his house to be "accessible" found it helpful to speak to a wheelchair user to find out what they really want, rather than the building regs version of what they think they want.

We had a solar tube in our last house. That had a dome on the roof and a shiny polished pipe to direct the light down to a difused ceiling fitting. It worked very well though many visitors were confused because they could not find the switch to turn the "light" off. I don't know of one that works horizontally.

Interesting topic. I had not seen that design before. I built my own completely from scratch using much simpler hardware. There's a lot to take in to understand how that design works so I doubt I can usefully answer any questions about the operation of it. My own design has 2 outputs, one for the SSR driving the immersion heater, and the other a wireless switched relay to turn on an electric convection heater.

So how would you heat the DHW in that scheme? Thermal stores don't suit heat pumps very well, you need the water in a TS hotter than your DHW delivery temperature which is not what ASHP's are good at. I can see why you propose one as they work well with a stove. You need better integration between stove and ASHP. Lets hope one of the plumbers comes along soon with a proposal.

This is the forumla The percolation test calculations for a soakaway are as follows Area (A) = V X P X 0.25 for septic tanks V = the time is seconds for the water in the test hole to drop by 1mm. P = the max. number of persons that the unit is designed to serve So with you percolation rate of 48 and at a guess 4 people, you would need 48 square metres. With only 3 people that would be 36 square metres. Better work on installing the largest infiltration field that you can fit in which sounds like it will be 40 square metres You will need a matrix of lots of perforated pipe usually laid in a herringbone fashion to cover the whole area.

Firstly, a single 10 metre bit of perforated pipe is nowhere near enough. 40 square metres might be enough you need to look up the building regs calvulation that gives the required area based upn Vp and number of occupants. The fact that the tank re fills as soon as emptied suggests your field is waterlogged and is not draining away. How close to the existing drainage field were your new percolation test holes, and how deep did you dig them? A treatment plant would be a lot better and the drainage field is much less likely to clog up. If you are suffering from high water table, then you might need an above ground filter mound. but your so called experts should know all this and have told you all of this. Is there a watercourse anywhere? That is a far better solution if available but would require an upgrade to a treatment plant.

This one https://www.diy.com/departments/goodhome-calera-straight-1-panel-bath-screen-w-850mm/3663602769552_BQ.prd Note the reviews about the lousy bottom seal, don't use one over a bath it you actually want a seal that works. They hinge all the way in both directions. Yes it does touch the shower controls so just be gentle. At that point it is almost parallel with the wall. The other one hinges underneath the shower rose and under the little shampoo rack in the corner.

So this is what we ended up doing. I gave up on custom made screens, the glass companies locally are still shut and from looking at this previously I had difficulty finding hinges that hinge both ways. So we bought a pair of the cheap off the shelf short shower screens from a well known orange DIY shop. The ones we chose had good reviews for the build and appearance but lousy reviews for the pathetic excuse for a sealing strip along the bottom. But we are not using that sealing strip (that is indeed pathetic) so it did not matter, So here is the finished result: Although they are low, almost no water goes over the top, and not much under the gap at the bottom either. They enclose you while showering to keep the rest of the room dry, and when not showering they both fold flat against the wall leaving the (not very big) room open. The search is now on for something similar for the other bathroom, except we want a matching pair of screens, one 800-900mm and the other 300mm. It is the 300mm hinged screen I can't seem to find.

I would fit much larger for the caravan. Mine is wired with 6mm. 13A is not enough what if you want to plug an electric heater in? Unless it has central heating you WILL.

Tress are just about the worst things to climb with a ladder. It's not like you have a nice flat thing to lean the ladder against. I have another tree to fell this winter but it's too close to the PV to just fell it in one from the ground. I am seriously considering erecting a section of Kwikstage to get up to it and then fell it in managable sections, taking the scaffold down as i go. I have several ladders, the big boy being a 5M 3 section ladder which I hardly ever use the third section. But more usually I used my shorter 2 section ladders as they are a lot lighter. One can never have too many different sized ladders.

I fitted ground mount solar PV, then decided to enclose the space under it making what we now refer to as either the Swiss chalet, or the Solar Shed It's only a covered storage space so the fact it's not 100% watertight does not matter. to do it properly you would have to either use one of the "in roof" tray systems, or make some other arangements to waterproof the joints between panels.

Almost all supplies to new properties now are PME, Protective Multiple Earthing, a variation on TNC-S The "earth" comes in combined with the neutral usually on a concentric cable. A know (and not that uncommon) failure is the combined Neutral and Earth (CNE) conductor breaks or corrodes. In this situation the "earth" in the property can rise well above local earth potential. For this reason, wiring regs prohibit a caravan being connected to a PME earth. On the other hand the SWA must be earthed at source. So in this case you do not connect the SWA at the caravan end and you do not connect in any way to the PME earth. So no need for 3 core SWA. Instead you provide a local TT earth with an earth rod.

Just use 2 core SWA for the caravan. For the treatment plant take it's own SWA straight from the garage CU

A lot of the suppliers of KwikStage state the kit they sell would for instance do a 12 metre run with two platorms with a working height of say 5 metres. That will give you a good idea of how much you need.

I would not connect to that cable. Follow where it goes, it will almost certainly go to a small consumer uit inside the 'van. Strip back the SWA and cut the armour back and insulate it so nothing can contact it, and take the inner cable of the SWA into the 'van and straight into the consumer unit. Then drop an earth cable out from the consumer unit to an earth rod as close to the 'van as you can get it.

You WILL need to earth both SWA's at the origin. At the CARAVAN you do NOT use the earth. Use an insulated gland so the SWA does not terminate to anything, and the caravan will need it's own TT earth (earth rod) Agreed do not use the 2 tier henley blocks.

The issue would be certification. What timber are you using? is it the right spec? who is going to declare the loading? I would have no problem doing that for a shed or other building that did not need BC approval, but for the main joists of a house? I think not.