ProDave

You can put up a notice on sight removing any implied rights of access, another thing @Jeremy Harris found out. If they ignore such a notice they are trespassing.

Can you not slide the seal along a bit more so it closes up that gap? Or does it open up again? If so a few spots of clear silicon to stop it sliding along and keep that gap closed. Take the seal strip off and soak it in bleach to clean it up.

Would that be a bog standard one?

I was going to say a nice shiny chrome blank plate.

The fan on those blows the air UP.

What heating? Most weather compensation is based on an outside sensor usually on the north wall, but it must be out of direct sunlight. Basically when it's colder outside it turns the heating up. I have never used one personally. But a good plan if you think you might is a spare cable from your plant room to somewhere on the north wall where you might put a sensor.

Isn't that an expansion gap?

Ah but this time you buy the glazing first and build the house around the glazing.

A certain forum member is going to get very excited. You might get a PM. Just remember my introduction fee, I mentioned it first.

No leave it. I think i could broker you a deal with someone that has some walk on glazing. You could walk over it and look down every day.........

That looks nice. We are of course all now waiting to discover what the "interesting find" was.

Ah, the UK land registry does not seem as helpful as the Scottish one, and does not preview the map on the screen before you buy. But I found this one https://www.ukplanningmaps.com/buy/ That lets you preview the land registry maps on screen before you buy so from that you might be able to identify your boundary and see if you can find any identifiable objects to align it with. EDIT I see that site only allows two free searches before it forces you to place an order so get it right first time and stay on the page until you have extracted all the information you need. Or while away some time searching for other sources of maps, "planning maps" seems a good search term.

What do the on line land registry maps actually show? When we bought our plot, it had not been registered on the electronic registry, all that existed was a crumpled bit of paper in the paper deeds showing a sketch and some dimensions. It went through a Land Registry "plans report" which tied what was shown on the scrappy bit of paper to the land registry OS map, and existing fences on that map. We ended up agreeing to purchase it accepting the boundaries "as fenced" If you can find some boundariies marked, try zooming out on the map to see if you can find some identifiable objects to line them up with.

Get the first cut in the right place and you only need one slip coupling.

That's not a very good job. I would say he did not get the battens on the new roof level with the old, hence the "step" along the diagonal join line. I think he could have done more to keep the front roof covered entirely with original tiles. This is a slightly similar roof we had done when extending a previous house The left hand portion was new. The builder had managed to source some reclaimed tiles that were a near perfect match, but even so, he took all the tiles off the side face of the roof and used those for the front, and used the new on the side and the rear. It goes without saying we were very pleased with the result.

Re brush it again. I suspect I have a similar "generic no name" SDS drill that I have been using for nearly 20 years and on it's 3rd or even 4th set of brushes. They seem otherwise indestructable.

I did much the same. With limited funds I employed a contractor to start the build, on the understanding that when the money ran out I would instruct him to stop. He was happy to work like that and we just about got a basic shell built before I had to give the stop instruction. If you are doing an insulated cavity build I would be worried if you had to stop before you got the roof on, keeping the cavity and already fitted insulation dry until you resume.

Just be careful you don't end up spending more on the build than it's market value will end up being.

The only way to be SURE is look at a proper SAP assesment to see the actual heating load. This was brought home to me when a house I was wiring recently, a semi detached house, ended up with a 12kW ASHP, in spite of it's identical twin having an 8kW unit. The supplier did their own sums and ignored the SAP. Oh and take a long read of this thread before you buy an LG unit. A lot of the thread is long winded about me working out a control scheme for it. But towards the end of page 1 not the discussion about spurious "CH 14" (low flow) errors which has been a recurring problem, still not completely cured, and I have heard of a few others with the same problem, still not solved. Ask them what they have done to the units since mine was made to solve the spurious CH14 error problem and what assurances they will give to resolve it if yours suffers that issue. and let us know what they say.

What is the scope of the work? £150K sounds a lot if it is just supply and erection of a timber frame.

I have just got one. They do seem to work. Always before I have sharpened tooth by tooth with a file attacking the inside of each tooth. These work by grinding off a bit of the outside of the teeth and do indeed seem to work. Note they expect your bar to have two holes in the end of it. Mine only had one, so I had to drill a second hole.

You can do what I have done, Import the PME earth from the remote meter box, (My SWA incoming cable glands directly into the metal consumer unit.) AND run a 16mm earth cable to a convenient point to an earth rod somewhere around the house. This is just suplimenting A PME system (remember PME stands for protective MULTIPLE earthing. It is a static caravan where you must not import the PME earth and that must only have it's own earth rod.

Yes, I post facts only in that thread, but I could not honestly recommend that model to someone. You have to understand I got mine through a very round about route at a very low price, so I don't have much come back and accept the "issues" because I got it so cheap. If I had paid anything like full price I would have been fuming.

Yes use 10mm earth for everything, it's what you need in the house for bonding water, gas etc.

I knew the hot wire thing works for polystyrene (but oh the stink) I for some reason thought PIR had a much higher melting point and it would not work.