ProDave

What is the ac voltage coming out of the transformer on load ? could it be overloaded? Raw ac Vout? Vdc direct from bridge rectifier?

Nice (relative to many other mineral wool products) to work with and will give a much longer decrement delay than PIR it's what I used in this house.

Yes you don't want the UFH that hot, it will damage the wooden floor. We are probably at the coldest part of the year, so keep turning it down each day until you reach a point it won't heat the house properly, then turn it back up a little.

I was originally planning a GSHP myself. Until I found the cost of the in ground pipe and anti freeze to fill it cost more than the ASHP and that was not even considering the cost of installing it. And then every 10 years or so you have to replace the anti freeze. The small improvement in eficciency compared to an ASHP would never have made it worthwhile. Another benefit, a monoblock ASHP puts all the noisy bits outside rather than in the house.

Why open? What's wrong with a room sealed wood burning stove?

Yes ADW Ltd.

When I got my initial quoted for house windows (not the sun room windows I am now dealing with) the most expensive quotes were > 2 times the cheapest, and there was no reason to it as the most expensive quote I got, others have had reasonable quotes from.

If you have not done the rest of your plumbing yet, a better use would just be use it for general plumbing in the house.

I used 2 offcuts to supply the hot and cold water to the en-suite, through a very congested area under the joists that would have been hard to get rigid copper through (as used everywhere else) My only use in the whole house of "plastic water pipe" 30M might actually be useful to someone for a short UFH loop so offer it on the market place?

But it would not have been much harder so grind the end off each post and re weld the foot on. But that would have cost money and time. I just loved his "oh that's going to cost too much for a professional to do it, I will do it myself instead" attitude. A bit like we have been doing for most of our build. But the sheer amount of work he did in 18 months puts my rather slow pace of work to shame. And he saw lockdown coming and stocked up on materials before everywhere shut, he read the situation better than me. I can't think of a GD episode that has so inspired me since Ben Law's house in the woods.

£3078 for a 3M wide 2.1M high patio door set, one fixed one sliding.

Tonight's episode I found inspiring. A young couple who have both been through their own medical problems, converting a barn on a small budget. Achieved by doing a lot of work themself, a true self build, with a fantastic result.

1/ A "marmite" question. We have a 4.5kW WBS with ducted air intake and love it.It is an alternative source of free heat for us. The house is normally heated to 20 degrees by the ASHP and UFH. The stove is an indulgence for when we want to be hotter at no extra cost. The main thing is think about where the stove will go as it needs to be able to heat more than 1 room. In our case the 2 downstairs rooms both have double doors opening to the stairwell, and with those open the stove can heat the whole house so it does not overheat any room, just raises the temperature of the whole house 2-3 degrees each burn. 2/ We don't have upstairs heating apart from the bathrooms. Even here in the Highlands, in the middle of a typical cold spell, -10 at night and not above 0 in the day it has not got below 18 degrees in the bedrooms.

I have just got my quote in from Rationel for my sun room windows. For 4 windows and one sliding patio door set, a total of 20.5 square metres of glass, £7040 Now off to negotiate........

We recently got a Temporary habitation certificate, they required electrical, gas G3 etc paperwork for that. For completion it seems they just want to see the last bits of the building completed, ammended plans as I made a few trivial internal changes, and an air test paperwork.

Just remove the actuator head, the pin should push out under spring pressure and that zone should be open for full flow. No need to swap the heads about. About all you can do is turn off ALL other zones and see if the defective one is still running cold.

Ballancing is to get the rate of temperature rise the same in all rooms. So even if the radiators have been "sized" correctly there will be differences as nothing is ever like the theory exactly. So the rooms that are getting too hot, you need to turn down one of the lockkshield valves a bit to reduce the flow to that radiator which should reduce it's temperature a bit. It will be a long process of make an adjustment and wait a day or more to see the change. Reducing the flow in the hot rooms should increase the flow in the rest and eventually you will get to a point where the cold rooms have more flow and heat up better. Alternatively just fit TRV's to every radiator and let them regulate the room temperature but probably not fit a TRV to the living room being the coldest room.

Keep looking for another plot then try again. Don't give up the dream. Best of luck.

Before ordering the smaller one, try it. This will at least confirm the voltage is okay. then leave it on 24 hours and see how hot it gets. You might not need an air gap if it runs cool.

At our last house we had upstairs and downstairs UFH in biscuit mix both on suspended floors. Downstairs was tile or wood floors, upstairs was carpeted. The floors need to be specified for the extra dead load of the biscuit mix. At the present house we have downstairs timber floor UFH using biscuit mix and the small amount of upstairs UFH just in the bathrooms, uses spreader plates.

Outside to in: Concrete tiles tile battens counter battens (forming a ventilated cavity vented at ridge and eaves) Breathable membrane 100mm wood fibre board acting as sarking board. 200mm rafters, insulated with Frametherm 35 (fitted from inside) 11mm OSB racking layer Air tight membrane 25mm battens forming service void 12.5mm plasterboard, plaster and paint. Frametherm insulation in ready for OSB to to on. Roof from outside, membrane over wood fibre board, counter battens going on.

Is the roof on yet? What is above the membrane in the photo? If roof not on why not fit external insulation above the rafters and make it into a warm roof (very much like my own)? Then you have eaves vents and a ridge vent to vent the gap between the breathable membrane and the tiles, and are you really telling me it is possible for a bat to enter through the standard eaves vent profiles? (e.g the OV10 that I used) If the bats can't get in the type of membrane wrt bats is not an issue.

No the circulating pump should only run when the HP is running. The noise might just be that a lot of heat pumps demand a high water flow so need the pumps running on a faster setting than might otherwise be required

That could be it. the temperature probe wire enclosed by a bit of flexible conduit. The white wire at the bottom is the immersion heater. That looks to be halfway up the tank and I don't see a lower down pocket to move it to. If so the ASHP won't even know the tank is getting used up until half your water has gone. Up to that point, the water in the tank stratifies, that is the hot water does not mix with the cold coming in at the bottom to replace the hot that is drawn off. but as soon as the ASHP starts heating the hot water, convection starts within the tank, and that will cause the remaining hot water in the tank to mix with the cold at the bottom, so the first thing that will happen as the ASHP starts to heat the water, is the temperature of the hot water at the top of the tank DROPS before it then starts to heat up again. EDIT hadn't seen the second photo, the sensor looks to be more like 1/3 of the way up the tank.

An ASHP will usually heat the hot water according to a sensor supplied with the ASHP that is inserted into a thermostat pocket on the cylinder. Can you see anything that just looks like a thin wire disappearing into a small hole on the side of the cylinder? If so post a picture, and an idea of how far up the cylinder that sensor is inserted. When i set ours up first, I put the sensor into the higher of the 2 available pockets, which was half way up the tank. that did not work well, because the ASHP would not sense the water needed heating until half of it was already used up. It works a lot better in the lower pocket. Even so, the lower pocket on my tank is about 1/3 of the way up, so again the HP won't know the water wants heating until 1/3 of it has already been used up. Then remember a HP is much lower power than a normal boiler so takes longer to heat a tank of water than a boiler will. Re shower usage, I measured our rainfall shower at something like 15L per minute full tilt and if used at full would use half a tank of water in not much over 10 minutes.