ProDave

If you are comitted to them, then the only sensible solution is convert them all to remote sensor with the sensor just below them.

I remember when I set up my ASHP I found it wanted to only heat the DHW part way with the ASHP then turn on the immersion heater. It took quite a lot of settings to disable that and heat it just with the ASHP.

It all depends on wayleaves and ownership of land it has to cross. Work on a new cable coming under the road, including a road crossing and your £15K could well be true, but it might be less. You also need to find the cost of a water connection, that might be another shock. Why can't you wait? Don't be bullied into completing on the purchase until you are satisfied.

Something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4kW-4000W-Domestic-Solar-PV-Kit-System-TRADE-DIY-Cheapest-in-UK/401879970422?hash=item5d91e9b276:g:7wwAAOSw81Jdd7Zu

That suggestion was the bargain basement stuff. But you do need a serious think would you actually want solar PV? you can get a 4kWp kit for about £2000 plus install costs (a day for a roofer and a day for an electrician) which would be a better prospect and much more useful in terms of real energy produced, most of which you should be able to self use.

IF as others suggest, the blending valve should be at the left, then by putting yours at the right it will be ported wrong. So it is not working because it is connected wrong. What is needed is not just a pretty photograph from the internet to show how it should be, but the actual manufacturers instructions to answer beyond doubt if it is assembled correctly or not.

Okay you want bargain basement. 2 of these https://www.bimblesolar.com/solar/individual/canadian-solar-305w?sort=p.price&order=ASC One of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600W-Solar-On-Grid-Tie-Inverter-MPPT-DC20-60V-to-AC230V-Pure-Sine-Wave-Inverter/402462006208?hash=item5db49adbc0:g:lYAAAOSwdvlfcY0T Then add ac isolator, DC isolator, generation meter. And you have SAP compliance for about £300 plus a bit of sparky time. Have you actually had a blower door air test done? Or is that air test figures a guess at what it might be?

Don't re invent the wheel https://www.screwfix.com/p/surestop-remote-stop-cock-22mm/57455

What have you so much against a few PV panels? If you don't like them on the house roof then put them on a shed roof or ground mount them?

Pictures of the roof? If there aer not many broken tiles have you thought of re using?

Yes no luxuries. the shower flow was in the "barely adequate" category.

What heats the water? Ours had an 11kW instant gas water heater. It had a temperature dial on it. We "calibrated" that with two settings, "warm" and "hot" On the "warm" setting you just turned the shower hot tap on full and it delivered shower temperature water. We only turned it to the "hot" setting for washing up where it then delivered a slower flow of water that you could just hold your hand under for washing up. I doubt you will find a thermostatic mixer to fit, "caravan" fittings are unique in many respects and domestic stuff just won't fit in most cases.

One way to measure heat loss is use and independant, measurable source of heat for a period. e.g when the fabric of our build was completed, long before the house was habitable I wanted to see if the insulation etc came close to what was predicted. So for a whole month, I had a single electric convector heater turned on in the centre of the ground floor of the house running at a known power level and with it's thermostat turned up to max so it would run continually. I logged the internal and external temperature dailiy so had a measure of the temperature difference between inside and out and throughout the test period the temperature difference almost exactly matched the predicted temperature difference for that amount of heat power into the house. I can see the installers POV as well as yours. You told him this is the insulation values that you will install. So he calculated the heat loss based on that. The heat loss now appears to be a different figure, of course he is going to blame you. He did not fit the insulation did he? Perhaps a lesson for others is don't size the heat pump on exactly the predicted heat loss, size it a bit bigger to allow for the heat loss being greater than you think. The bottom line is, regardless of flow and return temperatures, is the house getting hot enough?

Have you looked at levels yet? Regardless of which route you take, it looks to me like the new house is lower down the slope than the road. Depending on how deep the sewer is in the road, you might very well need a holding tank and pumping station.

Very likely. For a long time early in the build we had cardboard doors on most of the rooms.

What is this "lowest setting"? do you mean you have the water temperature turned right down? What is the water temperature set to?

Need to take it all apart, open up the wall, modify the drain pipe so it comes out higher up the wall and re assemble. It's "little" things like this that on another thread I said there is a LOT more to being a successful tradesman than knowing the regs.

But why would you want to remove them? If you buy carefully I reckon the self use of any electricity generated will paqy back the costs in about 6 years, so not only will you have got your SAP pass for not a lot of money, you will have lower electricity bills for the forseeable future.

Most electricians have a dim view of the short courses and their candidates have earned the name "5 week wonder". The big problem is the course might teach you the regulations and you might pass the exam, but you will probably learn nothing about real practical sparky work. It is as much about understanding buildings, how to route cables through an existing house etc to make wiring alterations, knowing what you can and importantly can not do. The practical aspect takes time to learn, which is why without doubt the best way to learn it is an apprenticeship.

The "mistake" there was ending it with > 6 months notice that caused a boom, followed by a bust when the double MIRAS ended as everyone that wanted to buy had bought and did not want to move again because they would loose the double MIRAS. Does anyone else think the present stamp duty holiday to "get the market moving" has also caused a boom, and will likely cause the very same bust when it ends in March. I wish they would stop trying to "help"

Lockdown guidelines in Scotland at the moment are tradesmen should only enter a residence for emergency work, so he is being quite correct. But my understanding is commercial work is still okay.

And I would move the door to the dining room left by 600mm so the run of units can continue all the way to the end behind the door.

I can't answer for the English regs, but no problem in Scotland. If there was an issue, then you would not be able to put switches or sockets above a worktop by the same argument.

I am not disputing that trades may be flat out in some places, but not here. 2020 has been my worst year since the 2008 crash. Thank goodness for the SEISS scheme. Generally I am finding domestic customers don't want you in their house at the moment, only for repairs that can't wait. Very little normal domestic work. I have done an unusual number if shed and summerhouse wiring and commercial is still carrying on, but very little indoor domestic. Who knows when that will return to normal and if there will be a boom as a pent up demand is satisfied when people feel it is safe once more?

As long as the ASHP can do cooling, then it will cool "enough" But the heat delivery system, typically UFH may not deliver that cooling to the building very well. From my brief experiments, it is upstairs that needs cooling when it gets hot (and the cool air will find it's way down) which is the exact opposite of where the heating is. So I would provision for taking flow and return pipes from the ASHP to the upstairs ceilings where you can install a couple of fan coil units to deliver cooling. And provision for ducting to take cabling and power feeds for them.